chain tool technique?

On Nov 20, 7:17*am, LF wrote:
Specifically, the ends of the pins are riveted to flare the ends
slightly. This prevents them from coming out of the side plates easily,
making them more resistant to the forces encountered with shifting and
cross-chaining. The downside to this is that when you push a pin out,
the hole in the side plate is stretched and enlarged and some of the
flare is removed from the pin. When you force it back into place, you do
more damage and the result is a weak link.


BTW, in days of olde, when 5 and 6 speed drivetrains ruled the earth,
chain pins weren't riveted, their pins protruded well past the side
plates and you could push them in and out with relative impunity.
Connecting links weren't necessary and weren't even available.

In theory, a single speed chain doesn't need riveted pins, but I don't
know if anyone makes one without them.

OK. *So, the "advance" in chain technology prevents a chain tool from
doing a good job. *Maybe (unlikely. none found on SRAM site) I can
find some "non-riveted" 3/32 chains. *Otherwise, it's back to
connector links. *Too bad. *A chain tool with a non-riveted chain is,
IMO, a superior technology. *I prefer things that can easily be taken
apart and put back together by the end user.

Best,
Larry "7-speed is the pinnacle of bicycle drive-train technology"
Fieman

The word for striking the end of the pins to
flare them is that the ends are "peened," not "riveted."

Ben

having centered on the idea first moves into the chain pin from the
tool pin dent the chain's pin then why not supply a chain tool pin
witha point on it ?
best move maybe finding two hands holding chain pin over smaller anvil
then tapping a center point into the chain pin with a punch.
Parks could send someone over ? Chevy employee ?
I'm moooooved to write: the chain IS easily damaged with a que sera
attidue. EG, bending the link cup holds the chain pin a weee bit will
shorten chain life.
Possible doing that multiple times and not getting the message.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 19:13:12 -0800, LF wrote:

I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck," and
gone for a ride. Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. They seemed to work ok on clean chains,
but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.

Any thoughts or advice?

Superlinks are the way to go. If you have trouble separating them, get
one of these:

http://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=5&item=MLP-1

-ts

On Nov 21, 1:12*pm, datakoll wrote:
having centered on the idea first moves into the chain pin from the
tool pin dent the chain's pin then why not supply a chain tool pin
witha point on it ?
best move maybe finding two hands holding chain pin over smaller anvil
then tapping a center point into the chain pin with a punch.
Parks could send someone over ? Chevy employee ?
I'm moooooved to write: the chain IS easily damaged with a que sera
attidue. EG, bending the link cup holds the chain pin a weee bit will
shorten chain life.
Possible doing that multiple times and not getting the message.

Gene,

Once you press out and press back in a
pin in one of these chains, you've stressed
the side plate. Trying to peen the pin again
with a punch is not addressing the problem.

Ben

On Nov 21, 8:27*pm, ts wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 19:13:12 -0800, LF wrote:
I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. *The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. *Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. *Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck," and
gone for a ride. *Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. *They seemed to work ok on clean chains,
but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.

Any thoughts or advice?

Superlinks are the way to go. *If you have trouble separating them, get
one of these:

http://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=5&item=MLP-1

* * * * -ts- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

the insight into why the chain tool pin moves is relevant to getting a
chain pin out for a sram link.
filing the point sharp, if yawl can file a cone...gets the job done
whereas the round point wanders until a dpression is established opn
the chain pin's surface.
I stock extra pins for saving newer chain's gone bad in one place -
from late day treks in twilight with traffic alongside...
a new set of links fron the last chain cut from 116 to 112 and the new
pin saves the day - less or more reducing expletive dleteds
considerabe.
a sram linlk remover for newly installed expletive dleted deleted but
irremovable is made from a walmart $2 vice grip ground as you see in
the Parks catalog. buy a carbide disk for ur drill then clam the $2
special to a bench and grind using mask and goggles puhlease.