Crank thread stripped: what now?

Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

Thanks,
Federico

On Sep 19, 2:14 pm, " wrote:
Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

Thanks,
Federico

probably the most practical thing is a new crank.
there's the stein repair system (http://jastein.com/
Tools_for_Cranks.htm) and i think that a system involving cutting
oversize threads and a special puller also exists. certain better
shops will have one of these systems, but a left crank will be cheaper
than having a shop do it.
using epoxy or something with a self extractor would probably work,
presuming you could get the bonded part to be in the right alignment
when it was all set. sounds tricky.

wrote:
Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

Sure, the VAR 1010 system is a piloted tap for a larger coarser thread
with a steel insert for the remover, get it machined at any competent LBS.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

call around or better ride around, bring a wad of ones, hang out and
ask for the used or left-over left hand crank bin. buy 3.
don't screw around with loctite or epoxy, you'll screw yourself good
when it fsils. anyways, loctite works on ferrous metals at least one
side so if the assembly's all AL you need to add Fe dust.

I use a piloted bottoming tap that replaces the original 22mm threads
with 23mm threads, the "other" size on double-sided pullers that fit
either standard or TA cranks. Expensive tool, not worth it to save one
crank, but if a shop near you has one, rethreading is simple and does
not take much time.

--
is Joshua Putnam
http://www.phred.org/~josh/
Braze your own bicycle frames. See
http://www.phred.org/~josh/build/build.html

Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

Sure, the VAR 1010 system is a piloted tap for a larger coarser thread
with a steel insert for the remover, get it machined at any competent LBS.

Yes, but it's a *left* crank arm, which is relatively cheap, and since he'd
like to make it "easily" extractable again, I think having to use a special
not-easy-to-find extractor in the future defeats the purpose. Or to put it
another way, by the time he pays for having the crank re-tapped *and* the
new tool he'll need to remove it, he'll have spent more than he would have
for a new crank arm.

I think the VAR 1010 solution makes more sense when trying to recover either
a very expensive or difficult-to-replace crank arm.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"A Muzi" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

Sure, the VAR 1010 system is a piloted tap for a larger coarser thread
with a steel insert for the remover, get it machined at any competent LBS.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

wrote:
Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

If you really don't want to buy a new crank, find a gear puller (this is
used in auto repair to pull pulleys and the like off of their shafts)
that will fit over the crank. This may damage the crank, but you've
already done that.

--

David L. Johnson

Accept risk. Accept responsibility. Put a lawyer out of business.

Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

If you really don't want to buy a new crank, find a gear puller (this is
used in auto repair to pull pulleys and the like off of their shafts) that
will fit over the crank. This may damage the crank, but you've already
done that.

Have you had much success with gear pullers? We've tried them in the past
and rarely found them to be of much use. Could be that we didn't have the
right-size gear puller, or wrong technique, but I'd be interested in hearing
from people who have made good use of them to remove cranks.

Thanks-

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


"David L. Johnson" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

If you really don't want to buy a new crank, find a gear puller (this is
used in auto repair to pull pulleys and the like off of their shafts) that
will fit over the crank. This may damage the crank, but you've already
done that.

--

David L. Johnson

Accept risk. Accept responsibility. Put a lawyer out of business.

On Sep 20, 7:39 am, "Mike Jacoubowsky"

Have you had much success with gear pullers? We've tried them in the past
and rarely found them to be of much use. Could be that we didn't have the
right-size gear puller, or wrong technique, but I'd be interested in hearing
from people who have made good use of them to remove cranks.

Not me, Mike. Sorry for disappointing you.
There was simply not enough room for the jaws.

On the other hand I do know that a couple of hard-wood wedges hammered
in place make an excellent puller, yet better if one has heated up a
bit the crank head.

Plus, here in Pisa I have very good connections and I know a competent
machine shop that would implant the elicoil for little money. They
have done it to a stripped 3ttt handlebar stem that I brought in,
recently.
One reservation I would make, however. It might not be easy to bore
correctly tp prepare for the tap [Andrew, please, put it into English
101].

So, Federico, do not dispair.
Call again next time you are in the neighborhood.

Sergio
Pisa

On Sep 19, 10:15 pm, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:
Hello all,
the crank-extractor thread on my left crank (shimano deore aluminium
square taper) is completely stripped.
I have already extracted the crank, but I would like to use it again
and therefore make it "easily" extractable.
Is there any way to cheaply repair it?
What if I buy a self-extracting bolt and sort of "weld" it in place
(is loctite strong enough? the thread is completely gone)

Sure, the VAR 1010 system is a piloted tap for a larger coarser thread
with a steel insert for the remover, get it machined at any competent LBS.

Yes, but it's a *left* crank arm, which is relatively cheap, and since he'd
like to make it "easily" extractable again, I think having to use a special
not-easy-to-find extractor in the future defeats the purpose. Or to put it
another way, by the time he pays for having the crank re-tapped *and* the
new tool he'll need to remove it, he'll have spent more than he would have
for a new crank arm..

Just checked and actually, the VAR system puts an oversized
proprietary self-extractor.on the crank. The kit comes with a seperate
crank puller for the shop.

What's the point, compared to the Stein?