On-Gaurd U-lock failure

My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?



-Rando

On Oct 25, 3:53*pm, pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

* * -Rando

Contact OnGuard. They're under the same parent company of Topeak, and
I've had excellent warranty service from them.

http://www.onguardlock.com/?page_id=13

pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

Last year I talked to an On-Guard rep at Interbike and mentioned that I
had a problem with the lighted key that came with the lock (the key part
broke the first time I used it). He said to just send the lock back and
they'd replace it. Not sure if it has a lifetime warranty or what, but
they were pretty nice.

pdxrandonneur wrote:

My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

Yes. Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to
open. I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no
results. I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no
results. I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key
in the turned position. Nope. I cursed Onguard thoroughly.

I consulted the OnGuard website. By dicking around for a long time
and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock -
Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem:

"We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the
industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside
areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter
trouble with our lock mechanism. Corrosion and dryness of the lock
cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into
the rotation of the key."

In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and
our locks **** up when you do that." Neither sea salt nor road salt
had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. There's
mo

"There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. First,
most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris
out of the locking mechanism. Keeping the cover closed at all times
will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking
mechanism."

Check. Didn't help.

"Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock.
As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away
the manufactuer's lubrication. If you feel your lock getting dry (it
becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or
lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking
mechanism."

That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. I reckoned it
would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my
own bike. But that wasn't the case. Here was the clue that finally
allowed me to liberate my bike:

"Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get
the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting
the lock open to allow for further maintenance. Although we do not
recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way
to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above-
described problem. The procedure is as follows:
1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder
2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would
normally start binding.
3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm
object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object)
along the length of the crossbar.
4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key."

A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed
flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. I now have a
single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks:

FAIL.

I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer.
My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have
owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. Their "lock maintenance"
advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication
that they do not intend to fix it.

At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. Not for long!

Chalo

On 26 Oct, 06:03, Chalo wrote:
pdxrandonneur wrote:

My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

Yes. *Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to
open. *I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no
results. *I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no
results. *I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key
in the turned position. *Nope. *I cursed Onguard thoroughly.

I consulted the OnGuard website. *By dicking around for a long time
and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock -
Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem:

"We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the
industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside
areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter
trouble with our lock mechanism. *Corrosion and dryness of the lock
cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into
the rotation of the key."

In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and
our locks **** up when you do that." *Neither sea salt nor road salt
had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. *There's
mo

"There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. *First,
most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris
out of the locking mechanism. *Keeping the cover closed at all times
will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking
mechanism."

Check. *Didn't help.

"Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock.
As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away
the manufactuer's lubrication. *If you feel your lock getting dry (it
becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or
lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking
mechanism."

That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. *I reckoned it
would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my
own bike. *But that wasn't the case. *Here was the clue that finally
allowed me to liberate my bike:

"Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get
the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting
the lock open to allow for further maintenance. *Although we do not
recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way
to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above-
described problem. The procedure is as follows:
1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder
2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would
normally start binding.
3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm
object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object)
along the length of the crossbar.
4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key."

A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed
flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. *I now have a
single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks:

FAIL.

I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer.
My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have
owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. *Their "lock maintenance"
advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication
that they do not intend to fix it.

At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. *Not for long!

Chalo

Rather peculier that they refer to a liquid lubrication in a lock.
The materials from which the lock are made should not bind. The only
lubricant used should by dry, powdered graphite. No products
containing wax or grease should come near the keyway and should be
avoided near the bolt if possible. (except for mine ) I think that
the pins/gates of the lock require cleaning of the oil/grease/wax
which is causing the lock to jam which will become worse in cold
weather. There is no excuse for using these wet lubricants in a
lock. I suggest that locks which show signs of sticking are washed
out repeatedly with solvent (not kerosene unless followed by naptha
etc.) actuating the key/bolt repeatedly to displace the contaminants.
When everthing runs free after drying out, then the mechanism may be
lubricated with powdered graphite.

Really, the lock needs disassembling to clean thoroughly, which is too
much work.
As regards to the plastic cap, don't these locks have spring loaded
shutters? It's essential to reduce dust ingress in an outdoor lock.
Without such a shutter the lock will be subjected to excessive wear if
used frequently in a dusty environment, more so if it is oiled.

On Oct 26, 2:03*am, Chalo wrote:
pdxrandonneur wrote:

My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

Yes. *Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to
open. *I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no
results. *I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no
results. *I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key
in the turned position. *Nope. *I cursed Onguard thoroughly.

I consulted the OnGuard website. *By dicking around for a long time
and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock -
Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem:

"We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the
industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside
areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter
trouble with our lock mechanism. *Corrosion and dryness of the lock
cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into
the rotation of the key."

In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and
our locks **** up when you do that." *Neither sea salt nor road salt
had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. *There's
mo

"There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. *First,
most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris
out of the locking mechanism. *Keeping the cover closed at all times
will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking
mechanism."

Check. *Didn't help.

"Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock.
As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away
the manufactuer's lubrication. *If you feel your lock getting dry (it
becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or
lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking
mechanism."

That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. *I reckoned it
would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my
own bike. *But that wasn't the case. *Here was the clue that finally
allowed me to liberate my bike:

"Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get
the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting
the lock open to allow for further maintenance. *Although we do not
recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way
to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above-
described problem. The procedure is as follows:
1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder
2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would
normally start binding.
3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm
object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object)
along the length of the crossbar.
4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key."

A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed
flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. *I now have a
single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks:

FAIL.

I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer.
My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have
owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. *Their "lock maintenance"
advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication
that they do not intend to fix it.

At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. *Not for long!

Chalo

Hmmm...

I'm using the same lock as you (or maybe it's the next smaller one,
not sure) I know that I'll be lubing it as soon as I get home...

nate

On 26 Oct, 12:24, N8N wrote:
On Oct 26, 2:03*am, Chalo wrote:



pdxrandonneur wrote:

My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

Yes. *Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to
open. *I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no
results. *I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no
results. *I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key
in the turned position. *Nope. *I cursed Onguard thoroughly.

I consulted the OnGuard website. *By dicking around for a long time
and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock -
Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem:

"We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the
industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside
areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter
trouble with our lock mechanism. *Corrosion and dryness of the lock
cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into
the rotation of the key."

In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and
our locks **** up when you do that." *Neither sea salt nor road salt
had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. *There's
mo

"There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. *First,
most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris
out of the locking mechanism. *Keeping the cover closed at all times
will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking
mechanism."

Check. *Didn't help.

"Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock.
As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away
the manufactuer's lubrication. *If you feel your lock getting dry (it
becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or
lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking
mechanism."

That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. *I reckoned it
would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my
own bike. *But that wasn't the case. *Here was the clue that finally
allowed me to liberate my bike:

"Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get
the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting
the lock open to allow for further maintenance. *Although we do not
recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way
to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above-
described problem. The procedure is as follows:
1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder
2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would
normally start binding.
3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm
object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object)
along the length of the crossbar.
4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key."

A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed
flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. *I now have a
single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks:

FAIL.

I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer.
My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have
owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. *Their "lock maintenance"
advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication
that they do not intend to fix it.

At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. *Not for long!

Chalo

Hmmm...

I'm using the same lock as you (or maybe it's the next smaller one,
not sure) I know that I'll be lubing it as soon as I get home...

Clean it with spirit, flood it as much as you can and shake to
dissolve and disperse the contaminents. Repeat a couple of times at
least until no contaminents are visible in the expelled spirit. Do
not lube a lock unless it shows signs of sticking despite it being
thoroughly cleaned of varnish, wax and grease. Graphite is the only
official lubricant to use in poor locks. Alternatively you could test
an oil in a domestic freezer to ensure it does not thicken/wax. You
could use such an oil but the lock will tend to collect dust so
increasing wear. This is not as bad as having a lock jam however.
The jamming may also be caused by rusted springs with insufficient
cleareance. I would think this is the reason OnGuard suggest oiling.
There SHOULD be plating to prevent rust. Normal plating is indeed
broken down if you use the lock within 400 yards of the sea. Special
locks such as supplied by ship/boat chandlers should be used in this
environment if a suitable bicycle lock cannot be found or thought of
as disposable after a year. You may like to pay a locksmith to put in
more durable springs/(treat exixting) as an alternative.

On Oct 25, 5:53*pm, pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

I've seen one On-guard with the same symptoms--but we assumed that the
owner had somehow broken off part of a key in the lock--as we couldn't
get any key to fully engage with the mechanism. I've had a mini-
bulldog for years with no problems. The key engagement is a little
sloppy feeling compared to the old round-key kryptos I used to use,
but not a problem.

I'd contact On-guard for a replacement--surely it's in their interest
to have a look at your lock in the pursuit of quality control.

Chalo wrote:
I consulted the OnGuard website. By dicking around for a long time
and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock -
Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem:

[...]

"Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get
the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting
the lock open to allow for further maintenance. Although we do not
recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way
to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above-
described problem. The procedure is as follows:
1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder
2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would
normally start binding.
3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm
object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object)
along the length of the crossbar.
4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key."

Cool. They've explained how to bump their locks.

On 26 Oct, 15:24, landotter wrote:
On Oct 25, 5:53*pm, pdxrandonneur wrote:

My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re-
lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully
it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this
happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has
anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks?

I've seen one On-guard with the same symptoms--but we assumed that the
owner had somehow broken off part of a key in the lock--as we couldn't
get any key to fully engage with the mechanism. I've had a mini-
bulldog for years with no problems. The key engagement is a little
sloppy feeling compared to the old round-key kryptos I used to use,
but not a problem.

I'd contact On-guard for a replacement--surely it's in their interest
to have a look at your lock in the pursuit of quality control.

It's probably more in their intrest to have one of their locks on the
street being seen to be used. It would be foolish to purchase another
dodgy lock. But a free one may be worth a go and a little good
publicity on the street for the distributer.