#51
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milling machine
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 13:46:47 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 3/20/2018 1:33 PM, Radey Shouman wrote: Frank Krygowski writes: On 3/20/2018 2:25 AM, John B. wrote: On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 22:43:37 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 10:59:44 +0700, John B. wrote: On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 19:48:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Incidentally, sharpening all my kitchen knives to an edge sharp enough for shaving was NOT a good idea. I'm cutting myself quite often and am slowly destroying my cutting boards and dishes. Paper plates no longer work as my knives cut through the paper. I don't do kitchen work but periodically my wife hands me a bunch of kitchen knives and says "Sharpen them". Generally these are cheap stainless knives and I've found that simply making a pass across a grinding wheel on each side works pretty well. It produces a sharp edge which is not perfectly smooth, more like a very fine tooth saw which seems to cut better then a perfectly smooth blade. Disclaimer: I am a beginner on knife making but am learning fast. It depends one what and how you're using the knife to cut. If you draw the knife as if you were sawing through the food, a rough edge is quite superior to a razor sharp edge. However, if you're pushing your way through the food with the knife, the razor edge works better. What I did was buy about 15 assorted knives at a local outdoor flea market and 10 more at a local thrift shop. I used these for practice to learn how to sharpen them and how to modify the shape of the blade. Most were stainless but I also found a few 1095 high carbon steel "Old Hickory" knives. https://www.knivesplus.com/OLD-HICKORY-KNIVES.HTML I bought a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander and belt assortment from 80 grit to 800 grit: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-60543.html an angle guide: https://www.amazon.com/Knife-Sharpening-Angle-Guide-Sharpen/dp/B01HVXFP80 and a collection of whetstones: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Whetstone-Knife-Grit-1000-8000-Sharpener-Sharpening-Water-Stone-Stand/222660726466 I also setup a binocular microscope so I could see what I was doing to the edge: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/microscopes/Olympus%20SZ30/slides/SZ30-01.html After a few frustrating failures, I determined that I could produce a usable but rough edge with the belt sander, and then refine it to a razor sharp edge with the water stones. The sanding might only take a few minutes on the belt sander, but the water stone polishing can easily take hours. I can easily see the difference with the microscope. I have 6" grinder, but I would not use it to sharpen knives. It takes off too much metal too quickly to maintain control. When I tried it, the result was a rather "wavy" edge. Even a belt sander takes off too much metal if you use a rough (80 or 120 grit) belt. If you have a belt sander, try starting with 120 grit to remove the dings and chips. Then use increasingly finer belts until you get to 400 or 800 grit. You can probably just quit there, or if you want a smooth edge, use a succession of water stones (1000 to 3000) to improve on the edge. Somewhere around the Net is a site that talks about super sharp, or deadly sharp, or some other fancy name. That guy used plain old emery paper on a flat block to sharpen a knife. I've tried it and it works pretty well except that if you move the blade forward - leading with the sharp edge - it scrapes the abrasive off the paper :-) But it does work pretty well if you pull the blade "backward" with the sharp edge trailing. I usually have a couple pf wood blocks with emery paper glued to one side laying around the bench. After trying many techniques over the decades, my favorite tool for sharpening knives is a steel block whose top surface is impregnated with industrial diamond abrasive. It seems to last forever, which for practical purposes means it stays flat. I have other whetstones that have gradually gotten concave, which makes it tough to maintain the proper edge angles. That diamond "stone", if it is wide enough, will flatten other whetstones quite nicely. Although if you wait until the stones are seriously dished it's not worth the effort. I had a nice Arkansas stone that broke before it went concave, sadly. My next best stone was a large one (maybe 2" x 6") given to me by the machinist who lived next door. But it was concave to begin with, and it's very concave now. I suppose I should find a way to flatten it. It's too big for my little diamond stone. Any advice? Google "how to flatten a dished sharpening stone". (5 million hits :-) My only hands on experience is with grinding machine wheels which were dressed with a single point diamond dresser which wouldn't be very practical for a flat stone :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
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#52
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milling machine
On 3/21/2018 12:29 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 13:46:47 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 3/20/2018 1:33 PM, Radey Shouman wrote: Frank Krygowski writes: On 3/20/2018 2:25 AM, John B. wrote: On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 22:43:37 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Tue, 20 Mar 2018 10:59:44 +0700, John B. wrote: On Mon, 19 Mar 2018 19:48:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Incidentally, sharpening all my kitchen knives to an edge sharp enough for shaving was NOT a good idea. I'm cutting myself quite often and am slowly destroying my cutting boards and dishes. Paper plates no longer work as my knives cut through the paper. I don't do kitchen work but periodically my wife hands me a bunch of kitchen knives and says "Sharpen them". Generally these are cheap stainless knives and I've found that simply making a pass across a grinding wheel on each side works pretty well. It produces a sharp edge which is not perfectly smooth, more like a very fine tooth saw which seems to cut better then a perfectly smooth blade. Disclaimer: I am a beginner on knife making but am learning fast. It depends one what and how you're using the knife to cut. If you draw the knife as if you were sawing through the food, a rough edge is quite superior to a razor sharp edge. However, if you're pushing your way through the food with the knife, the razor edge works better. What I did was buy about 15 assorted knives at a local outdoor flea market and 10 more at a local thrift shop. I used these for practice to learn how to sharpen them and how to modify the shape of the blade. Most were stainless but I also found a few 1095 high carbon steel "Old Hickory" knives. https://www.knivesplus.com/OLD-HICKORY-KNIVES.HTML I bought a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander and belt assortment from 80 grit to 800 grit: https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/sanders/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-60543.html an angle guide: https://www.amazon.com/Knife-Sharpening-Angle-Guide-Sharpen/dp/B01HVXFP80 and a collection of whetstones: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Whetstone-Knife-Grit-1000-8000-Sharpener-Sharpening-Water-Stone-Stand/222660726466 I also setup a binocular microscope so I could see what I was doing to the edge: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/microscopes/Olympus%20SZ30/slides/SZ30-01.html After a few frustrating failures, I determined that I could produce a usable but rough edge with the belt sander, and then refine it to a razor sharp edge with the water stones. The sanding might only take a few minutes on the belt sander, but the water stone polishing can easily take hours. I can easily see the difference with the microscope. I have 6" grinder, but I would not use it to sharpen knives. It takes off too much metal too quickly to maintain control. When I tried it, the result was a rather "wavy" edge. Even a belt sander takes off too much metal if you use a rough (80 or 120 grit) belt. If you have a belt sander, try starting with 120 grit to remove the dings and chips. Then use increasingly finer belts until you get to 400 or 800 grit. You can probably just quit there, or if you want a smooth edge, use a succession of water stones (1000 to 3000) to improve on the edge. Somewhere around the Net is a site that talks about super sharp, or deadly sharp, or some other fancy name. That guy used plain old emery paper on a flat block to sharpen a knife. I've tried it and it works pretty well except that if you move the blade forward - leading with the sharp edge - it scrapes the abrasive off the paper :-) But it does work pretty well if you pull the blade "backward" with the sharp edge trailing. I usually have a couple pf wood blocks with emery paper glued to one side laying around the bench. After trying many techniques over the decades, my favorite tool for sharpening knives is a steel block whose top surface is impregnated with industrial diamond abrasive. It seems to last forever, which for practical purposes means it stays flat. I have other whetstones that have gradually gotten concave, which makes it tough to maintain the proper edge angles. That diamond "stone", if it is wide enough, will flatten other whetstones quite nicely. Although if you wait until the stones are seriously dished it's not worth the effort. I had a nice Arkansas stone that broke before it went concave, sadly. My next best stone was a large one (maybe 2" x 6") given to me by the machinist who lived next door. But it was concave to begin with, and it's very concave now. I suppose I should find a way to flatten it. It's too big for my little diamond stone. Any advice? Google "how to flatten a dished sharpening stone". (5 million hits :-) My only hands on experience is with grinding machine wheels which were dressed with a single point diamond dresser which wouldn't be very practical for a flat stone :-) But maybe possible with a diamond tool in a fly cutter such as is used for engine heads. I just replace the stone which is infrequent and cheap. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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