Drum brake removal

I have just been working on a bike with a rear drum brake. This is an
external contracting band type with the drum affixed to the hub.
Although it was not neccesary this time, if the wheel in question
required spoke replacement, that drum clearly would need to come off.
There is no way to see if it is threaded on the hub as the hub end is
flush with the drum mounting hub, and even a close examination with a
magnifying glass would not reveal the start of a thread.
Is it possible this thing is a cryo fit or something?
There are 3 evenly spaced holes in the flange of the hub. It looks
like a heavy duty pin spanner would fit those holes if it is indeed
threaded on there.
Is there a special tool and or tecnique for this?
Dan Burkhart


--
Dan Burkhart

Dan Burkhart wrote:
I have just been working on a bike with a rear drum brake. This is an
external contracting band type with the drum affixed to the hub.
Although it was not neccesary this time, if the wheel in question
required spoke replacement, that drum clearly would need to come off.

Every brake of this type that I've seen (it's sometimes called a "band"
brake, BTW) has a couple large holes in the back side of the drum.
Those require a really large pin spanner, like this:
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...tem_id=HZ-C349
In a pinch, I'd substitute a couple large screwdrivers clamped in a
vise pointing upwards. The idea is to get something engaged in those
holes, then use the wheel for leverage to turn it off of the drum.

Jeff

Dan Burkhart Wrote:
I have just been working on a bike with a rear drum brake. This is an
external contracting band type with the drum affixed to the hub.
Although it was not neccesary this time, if the wheel in question
required spoke replacement, that drum clearly would need to come off.
There is no way to see if it is threaded on the hub as the hub end is
flush with the drum mounting hub, and even a close examination with a
magnifying glass would not reveal the start of a thread.
Is it possible this thing is a cryo fit or something?
There are 3 evenly spaced holes in the flange of the hub. It looks
like a heavy duty pin spanner would fit those holes if it is indeed
threaded on there.
Is there a special tool and or tecnique for this?
Dan Burkhart
Correct spanner works, but you might try this way first:
"Have somebody sit on the stoker's saddle (for traction), apply the
brake, and forcibly roll the tandem backward until the drum starts to
unscrew from the hub. This is the easiest way to break it free."
Quoted from Sheldon Brown's section on tandem brakes.
If it is a single bicyle, remove the word "stoker's" & "tandem"
...substitute bicycle.
This method works best with 2 people, good tire traction, and as much
of a "jerky" rearward push as the 2 of you can safely do. Timing a
rear push and a downward push is sometimes tricky.
If you use any kind of spanner, make sure it makes a good "purchase" on
the holes without protruding very far past them and possibly damaging
something else.


--
daveornee

This got me looking at my drum brake Gazelle, no need to
remove drum to replace spokes. But I do have that wrench if need.

Dan Burkhart Wrote:
I have just been working on a bike with a rear drum brake. This is an
external contracting band type with the drum affixed to the hub.
Although it was not neccesary this time, if the wheel in question
required spoke replacement, that drum clearly would need to come off.
There is no way to see if it is threaded on the hub as the hub end is
flush with the drum mounting hub, and even a close examination with a
magnifying glass would not reveal the start of a thread.
Is it possible this thing is a cryo fit or something?
There are 3 evenly spaced holes in the flange of the hub. It looks
like a heavy duty pin spanner would fit those holes if it is indeed
threaded on there.
Is there a special tool and or tecnique for this?
Dan Burkhart

daveornee wrote:
Correct spanner works, but you might try this way first:
"Have somebody sit on the stoker's saddle (for traction), apply the
brake, and forcibly roll the tandem backward until the drum starts to
unscrew from the hub. This is the easiest way to break it free."
Quoted from Sheldon Brown's section on tandem brakes.
If it is a single bicyle, remove the word "stoker's" & "tandem"
...substitute bicycle.
This method works best with 2 people, good tire traction, and as much
of a "jerky" rearward push as the 2 of you can safely do. Timing a
rear push and a downward push is sometimes tricky.
If you use any kind of spanner, make sure it makes a good "purchase" on
the holes without protruding very far past them and possibly damaging
something else.

The popular Arai and some others have a raised six-sided
flange if you have a 38 or 40 (?) mm socket and a long 1/2"
drive wrench handy

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi Wrote:
Dan Burkhart Wrote:
I have just been working on a bike with a rear drum brake. This is
an
external contracting band type with the drum affixed to the hub.
Although it was not neccesary this time, if the wheel in question
required spoke replacement, that drum clearly would need to come
off.
There is no way to see if it is threaded on the hub as the hub end
is
flush with the drum mounting hub, and even a close examination with
a
magnifying glass would not reveal the start of a thread.
Is it possible this thing is a cryo fit or something?
There are 3 evenly spaced holes in the flange of the hub. It looks
like a heavy duty pin spanner would fit those holes if it is indeed
threaded on there.
Is there a special tool and or tecnique for this?
Dan Burkhart

daveornee wrote:
Correct spanner works, but you might try this way first:
"Have somebody sit on the stoker's saddle (for traction), apply the
brake, and forcibly roll the tandem backward until the drum starts
to
unscrew from the hub. This is the easiest way to break it free."
Quoted from Sheldon Brown's section on tandem brakes.
If it is a single bicyle, remove the word "stoker's" & "tandem"
...substitute bicycle.
This method works best with 2 people, good tire traction, and as
much
of a "jerky" rearward push as the 2 of you can safely do. Timing a
rear push and a downward push is sometimes tricky.
If you use any kind of spanner, make sure it makes a good "purchase"
on
the holes without protruding very far past them and possibly
damaging
something else.

The popular Arai and some others have a raised six-sided
flange if you have a 38 or 40 (?) mm socket and a long 1/2"
drive wrench handy

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks for the response everyone.
This one has no six sided flange, the three holes in the flange seem
to be the only way to get a purchase on this thing. As I mentioned
before, I don't need to revove this one this time, but for future
reference....
Dan


--
Dan Burkhart