Removing rear Hugi 240(road) bearings from rotor

Hi there

I'm trying to replace the sealed cartridge bearings in my Hugi 240 road rear
hub (rolf vector pro gold wheel set).

However I can't seem to remove the 2 bearing catridges that are inside the
rotor. The rotor is a gold colour (does that mean it's a problem "version
1" 240 hub?).

I have removed the seal on the outer end of the rotor and tried using a
correctly-sized socket and hammer to hit the inner catridge. I was hoping
this would force the inner cartridge, spacer and outer cartridge out.
However, no matter how hard I hit it, it doesn't budge.

Anyone know if I'm doing something wrong?

And while I'm asking:

Since my rotor "cassette splines" seem pretty worn, does anyone know if I
can simply replace the entire rotor (including 2 sets of sealed bearings)
with a new one? Must I get these from DT and any idea how much it is?

If I keep the current rotor, what spec bearings should I replace the current
ones with?


Many thanks
Henty

--
hentyw @ innoforge.com (remove the spaces)

In answer to my own question:

First of all, what DT terms a "rotor" most people will call a freewheel body
or shell. It's the bit that the cassette fits onto.

The 2 bearings are seperated by a spacer which can be moved flush against
the inside wall of the rotor. This will allow access to a very well hidden
and undocumented circlip (sp?) that keeps the bearing catridges in place.
Remove the circlip (easier said than done) and the bearing catridges can be
removed with a socket and hammer.

Henty wrote:

Hi there

I'm trying to replace the sealed cartridge bearings in my Hugi 240 road
rear hub (rolf vector pro gold wheel set).

However I can't seem to remove the 2 bearing catridges that are inside the
rotor. The rotor is a gold colour (does that mean it's a problem "version
1" 240 hub?).

I have removed the seal on the outer end of the rotor and tried using a
correctly-sized socket and hammer to hit the inner catridge. I was hoping
this would force the inner cartridge, spacer and outer cartridge out.
However, no matter how hard I hit it, it doesn't budge.

Anyone know if I'm doing something wrong?

And while I'm asking:

Since my rotor "cassette splines" seem pretty worn, does anyone know if I
can simply replace the entire rotor (including 2 sets of sealed bearings)
with a new one? Must I get these from DT and any idea how much it is?

If I keep the current rotor, what spec bearings should I replace the
current ones with?


Many thanks
Henty


--
hentyw @ innoforge.com (remove the spaces)

In answer to my own question:

First of all, what DT terms a "rotor" most people will call a freewheel body
or shell. It's the bit that the cassette fits onto.

The 2 bearings are seperated by a spacer which can be moved flush against
the inside wall of the rotor. This will allow access to a very well hidden
and undocumented circlip (sp?) that keeps the bearing catridges in place.
Remove the circlip (easier said than done) and the bearing catridges can be
removed with a socket and hammer.

Henty wrote:

Hi there

I'm trying to replace the sealed cartridge bearings in my Hugi 240 road
rear hub (rolf vector pro gold wheel set).

However I can't seem to remove the 2 bearing catridges that are inside the
rotor. The rotor is a gold colour (does that mean it's a problem "version
1" 240 hub?).

I have removed the seal on the outer end of the rotor and tried using a
correctly-sized socket and hammer to hit the inner catridge. I was hoping
this would force the inner cartridge, spacer and outer cartridge out.
However, no matter how hard I hit it, it doesn't budge.

Anyone know if I'm doing something wrong?

And while I'm asking:

Since my rotor "cassette splines" seem pretty worn, does anyone know if I
can simply replace the entire rotor (including 2 sets of sealed bearings)
with a new one? Must I get these from DT and any idea how much it is?

If I keep the current rotor, what spec bearings should I replace the
current ones with?


Many thanks
Henty


--
hentyw @ innoforge.com (remove the spaces)