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#1
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Rear derailleur help
I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks.
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#3
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Rear derailleur help
On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/16/2018 6:11 PM, wrote: I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog.. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks. With friction shifters a Veloce long cage should shift well. You do need a longer low gear screw (m4x0.7) but you can buy one for pennies at any hardware store. Ensure derailleur is vertical (cage parallel to chainrings), ensure chain length is adequate and then shift firmly with your thumb like this: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/gearchek.jpg so you know absolutely that the chain will not shift off the back of your low gear sprocket. The low gear limit is the one on the left. You can see its function by looking up from under the changer. Once the shifter is adjusted properly, connect the gear wire. Have another go, you just missed something. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Andrew, the springs that are supposed to hold the limit screws in place are likely not to be long enough. I have tried to use Blue Locktite but can't get it to work like the stuff on many factory parts. Looking at these parts it appears that you have to put a single drop of the blue onto the screw and to let it dry for about an hour before using it. But instead of getting a tighter screw fit the damn things always are way too tight. And it's hard to get a single drop at a time from the tube. Hard you got some hints about this? |
#4
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Rear derailleur help
On 9/17/2018 3:58 PM, wrote:
On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 9/16/2018 6:11 PM, wrote: I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks. With friction shifters a Veloce long cage should shift well. You do need a longer low gear screw (m4x0.7) but you can buy one for pennies at any hardware store. Ensure derailleur is vertical (cage parallel to chainrings), ensure chain length is adequate and then shift firmly with your thumb like this: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/gearchek.jpg so you know absolutely that the chain will not shift off the back of your low gear sprocket. The low gear limit is the one on the left. You can see its function by looking up from under the changer. Once the shifter is adjusted properly, connect the gear wire. Have another go, you just missed something. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Andrew, the springs that are supposed to hold the limit screws in place are likely not to be long enough. I have tried to use Blue Locktite but can't get it to work like the stuff on many factory parts. Looking at these parts it appears that you have to put a single drop of the blue onto the screw and to let it dry for about an hour before using it. But instead of getting a tighter screw fit the damn things always are way too tight. And it's hard to get a single drop at a time from the tube. Hard you got some hints about this? I doubt very much that a drop of typical Loctite thread locker will ever dry on a screw. As I understand things, it's an anaerobic adhesive, and its solidification is triggered by the presence of metal ions AND the absence of air. http://instantca.com/articles/anaerobic-adhesives/ Now Loctite has dozens of products, including many intended for industrial use instead of consumer use. I don't doubt they make a compound to pre-apply to screws that does turn solid. But that's not the stuff normally sold in stores. If you find out different, let me know. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#5
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Rear derailleur help
Frank Krygowski wrote:
:On 9/17/2018 3:58 PM, wrote: : On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: : On 9/16/2018 6:11 PM, wrote: : I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks. : : : With friction shifters a Veloce long cage should shift well. : You do need a longer low gear screw (m4x0.7) but you can : buy one for pennies at any hardware store. : : Ensure derailleur is vertical (cage parallel to chainrings), : ensure chain length is adequate and then shift firmly with : your thumb like this: : http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/gearchek.jpg : so you know absolutely that the chain will not shift off the : back of your low gear sprocket. : : The low gear limit is the one on the left. You can see its : function by looking up from under the changer. Once the : shifter is adjusted properly, connect the gear wire. Have : another go, you just missed something. : : : -- : Andrew Muzi : www.yellowjersey.org/ : Open every day since 1 April, 1971 : : Andrew, the springs that are supposed to hold the limit screws in place are likely not to be long enough. I have tried to use Blue Locktite but can't get it to work like the stuff on many factory parts. Looking at these parts it appears that you have to put a single drop of the blue onto the screw and to let it dry for about an hour before using it. But instead of getting a tighter screw fit the damn things always are way too tight. And it's hard to get a single drop at a time from the tube. Hard you got some hints about this? : :I doubt very much that a drop of typical Loctite thread locker will ever :dry on a screw. As I understand things, it's an anaerobic adhesive, and :its solidification is triggered by the presence of metal ions AND the :absence of air. http://instantca.com/articles/anaerobic-adhesives/ :Now Loctite has dozens of products, including many intended for :industrial use instead of consumer use. I don't doubt they make a :compound to pre-apply to screws that does turn solid. But that's not the :stuff normally sold in stores. :If you find out different, let me know. No, you're right. The preapplied stuff is called 'Dri-loc'. It's not really available outside of industrial sales channels, and not even readily there (neitther mcmaster nor fastenal list it, for instance). there's a pre assembly tape that's somewhat more available. -- sig 95 |
#6
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Rear derailleur help
On Monday, September 17, 2018 at 9:58:59 PM UTC+2, wrote:
On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 9/16/2018 6:11 PM, wrote: I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks. With friction shifters a Veloce long cage should shift well. You do need a longer low gear screw (m4x0.7) but you can buy one for pennies at any hardware store. Ensure derailleur is vertical (cage parallel to chainrings), ensure chain length is adequate and then shift firmly with your thumb like this: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/gearchek.jpg so you know absolutely that the chain will not shift off the back of your low gear sprocket. The low gear limit is the one on the left. You can see its function by looking up from under the changer. Once the shifter is adjusted properly, connect the gear wire. Have another go, you just missed something. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Andrew, the springs that are supposed to hold the limit screws in place are likely not to be long enough. I have tried to use Blue Locktite but can't get it to work like the stuff on many factory parts. Looking at these parts it appears that you have to put a single drop of the blue onto the screw and to let it dry for about an hour before using it. But instead of getting a tighter screw fit the damn things always are way too tight. And it's hard to get a single drop at a time from the tube. Hard you got some hints about this? Put on the Loctite 243 (blue stuff) and take a paper towel and wipe the access off. There only have to be some loctite in the valleys of threads of the screw. It doesn't dry/harden in open air, it only hardens when you put in the screw. Works well. Lou |
#7
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Rear derailleur help
On 9/17/2018 9:20 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/17/2018 3:58 PM, wrote: On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 9/16/2018 6:11 PM, wrote: I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks. With friction shifters a Veloce long cage should shift well. You do need a longer low gear screw (m4x0.7) but you can buy one for pennies at any hardware store. Ensure derailleur is vertical (cage parallel to chainrings), ensure chain length is adequate and then shift firmly with your thumb like this: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/gearchek.jpg so you know absolutely that the chain will not shift off the back of your low gear sprocket. The low gear limit is the one on the left. You can see its function by looking up from under the changer. Once the shifter is adjusted properly, connect the gear wire. Have another go, you just missed something. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Andrew, the springs that are supposed to hold the limit screws in place are likely not to be long enough. I have tried to use Blue Locktite but can't get it to work like the stuff on many factory parts. Looking at these parts it appears that you have to put a single drop of the blue onto the screw and to let it dry for about an hour before using it. But instead of getting a tighter screw fit the damn things always are way too tight. And it's hard to get a single drop at a time from the tube. Hard you got some hints about this? I doubt very much that a drop of typical Loctite thread locker will ever dry on a screw. As I understand things, it's an anaerobic adhesive, and its solidification is triggered by the presence of metal ions AND the absence of air. http://instantca.com/articles/anaerobic-adhesives/ Now Loctite has dozens of products, including many intended for industrial use instead of consumer use. I don't doubt they make a compound to pre-apply to screws that does turn solid. But that's not the stuff normally sold in stores. If you find out different, let me know. Yes, that's right. In practice, a drop of Blue on a screw will set in a few hours once the threads are engaged (anaerobic). Alternately for a simple low-force application like gear limit screws, a drop of tubular cement works as well. Either may be turned later as needed. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#8
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Rear derailleur help
On 18/09/18 23:58, AMuzi wrote:
Yes, that's right. In practice, a drop of Blue on a screw will set in a few hours once the threads are engaged (anaerobic). Alternately for a simple low-force application like gear limit screws, a drop of tubular cement works as well. Either may be turned later as needed. I wonder whether a few wraps of cotton thread would have a similar effect? -- JS |
#9
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Rear derailleur help
On Monday, September 17, 2018 at 7:44:25 PM UTC-7, David Scheidt wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote: :On 9/17/2018 3:58 PM, wrote: : On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 4:37:42 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: : On 9/16/2018 6:11 PM, wrote: : I am trying to change the gearing on a beloved seventies 6/7 speed. I would like to use a 50-34 compact crankset but stick with a 6 or 7 speed freewheel in back so I don't have to change wheels and spread the frame. I need rear derailleur ideas that could handle a 30T capacity and a 28T rear cog. Do you have any suggestions? A website suggested the Campagnolo Veloce 10 speed derailleur, but when I tried this model, it doesn't work, even with substituting longer adjustment screws there was too much travel toward the spokes. Thanks. : : : With friction shifters a Veloce long cage should shift well. : You do need a longer low gear screw (m4x0.7) but you can : buy one for pennies at any hardware store. : : Ensure derailleur is vertical (cage parallel to chainrings), : ensure chain length is adequate and then shift firmly with : your thumb like this: : http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/gearchek.jpg : so you know absolutely that the chain will not shift off the : back of your low gear sprocket. : : The low gear limit is the one on the left. You can see its : function by looking up from under the changer. Once the : shifter is adjusted properly, connect the gear wire. Have : another go, you just missed something. : : : -- : Andrew Muzi : www.yellowjersey.org/ : Open every day since 1 April, 1971 : : Andrew, the springs that are supposed to hold the limit screws in place are likely not to be long enough. I have tried to use Blue Locktite but can't get it to work like the stuff on many factory parts. Looking at these parts it appears that you have to put a single drop of the blue onto the screw and to let it dry for about an hour before using it. But instead of getting a tighter screw fit the damn things always are way too tight. And it's hard to get a single drop at a time from the tube. Hard you got some hints about this? : :I doubt very much that a drop of typical Loctite thread locker will ever :dry on a screw. As I understand things, it's an anaerobic adhesive, and :its solidification is triggered by the presence of metal ions AND the :absence of air. http://instantca.com/articles/anaerobic-adhesives/ :Now Loctite has dozens of products, including many intended for :industrial use instead of consumer use. I don't doubt they make a :compound to pre-apply to screws that does turn solid. But that's not the :stuff normally sold in stores. :If you find out different, let me know. No, you're right. The preapplied stuff is called 'Dri-loc'. It's not really available outside of industrial sales channels, and not even readily there (neitther mcmaster nor fastenal list it, for instance). there's a pre assembly tape that's somewhat more available. Now that's what I needed to know. Thanks David. I assumed that it was just red for the original and blue for the Dri-loc. |
#10
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Rear derailleur help
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