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#111
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 6, 7:58*pm, Anton Berlin wrote: Maggie, if you can lock up either wheel and heat isn't a problem this is a stupid argument to make * *Who gives a **** if a wheel locks up by 300 or 303% *? We all know best braking is just at the level under lock up. All of his arguments for the past week have been, at best, stupid. It's time for a change in meds or some better weed, dude. Hey Margaret, do me a favor, run this thread by RBT and let's see what they have to day about you contention. R No. Magilla |
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#112
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
Michael Press wrote:
In article , MagillaGorilla wrote: thirty-six wrote: On 6 Nov, 13:04, MagillaGorilla wrote: If you really want to increase the effectiveness and stability of your rear brake, you should mount it to the frame on the FRONT of your seat stays, which is how your front brake is mounted with respect to the rotation of the rim. Â*What this does is cause the brake caliper assembly to be pushed into the frame during the entire braking event. But in standard rear brake mounts, the caliper's entire stability is only by the mounting bolt and the caliper is bring pulled away from the frame. Mounting your rear calipers to the front of the rear seat stays will aid in high speed braking stability by a couple percent. Â*The only reason it's not done like that for most riders is because of aesthetics. Â*Any mechanic or frame builder will tell you it's not as good to mount the brake calipers where 99.99% of the people mount it. Magilla Huh? If anything you want the front brake behind the mounting so that with typical rims which have a slight flare to their extremity the brake pads will move towards the hubs so providing a more controllable inverse servo. The negative servo effect already exists with the rear brake and the consequences of a diving rear brake, with the caliper jamming the tyre, are likely of little concern. Mudguards will prevent wheel jamming with brake mount failure. Jackass. Shut up and listen. In a typical rear brake mount, the directional rotation of the rear wheel pulls the brake caliper away from the seat stays/frame via the mounting bolt during braking. If you mount it on the opposite side, the rotational force of the rim (during braking) will cause the caliper to be pushed into the frame, giving better stability. Your front brake is mounted 'correctly' but the rear brake is opposite and only done that way for aesthetics. I can see you've never had any technical conversations with mechanics and frame builders. I have yet to meet one that doesn't know this...And some do it. Here is one framebuilder who does it (notice the rear brake caliper mounted on the front of the seat stays...this is the same way your front bake is mounted on your fork and provides better stability) http://i.pbase.com/o4/68/71868/1/554...707038_IMG.JPG http://www.campyonly.com/images/modb...8/bike%201.jpg Mounting the rear brake on the seat stay bridge on the side where the rotating wheel carries the brake away from the seat stay bridge means that the brake pads are carried toward the tire where they can then scrape the tire and cause a tire blow out. -- Michael Press No, they will not be carried towards the tire because the caliper cannot be pushed inot the frame (since it is already mounted flugh with the frame. That's the whole point of doing that. That's the way your front brake - the most essential brake on a bike - is mounted. If you mount the rear brake in its "normal" way, the rotational forces of the wheel will pull the caliper away from the frame and give you less lateral stability and braking force. Magilla |
#113
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
Howard Kveck wrote:
In article , MagillaGorilla wrote: Howard Kveck wrote: In article , " wrote: Having your weight rearward is important but your rear brake still doesn't do much in a panic stop. Grab it anyway, but don't expect it to do anything as all your weight shifts to the front. Which is one of the reasons Campy has a dual pivot brake (clamps hard for good braking) for the front and a single pivot one for the rear. The rear doesn't do that much and you simply don't need that much braking power on the rim in the back. If you really want to increase the effectiveness and stability of your rear brake, youshould mount it to the frame on the FRONT of your seat stays, which is how your front brake is mounted with respect to the rotation of the rim. What this does is cause the brake caliper assembly to be pushed into the frame during the entire braking event. But in standard rear brake mounts, the caliper's entire stability is only by the mounting bolt and the caliper is bring pulled away from the frame. Mounting your rear calipers to the front of the rear seat stays will aid in high speed braking stability by a couple percent. The only reason it's not done like that for most riders is because of aesthetics. Any mechanic or frame builder will tell you it's not as good to mount the brake calipers where 99.99% of the people mount it. Mmm, I think if you look at a bike and the direction the wheel is rotating, you'll see that the rotation is pushing the brake pads toward the stays when the caliper is mounted on the back, like they almost all are. Correct. That's what I said. But what you don't seem to understand is this causes the brake caliper at the MOUNTING BOLT to be pulled away from the frame. Whereas on your front brake, the roatation force of the wheel is pushing your brake caliper INTO the frame giving your front brake more stability than your rear brake during heavy braking. The caliper isn't being supported any more by the stays either way it's mounted. Yes it is because during braking, when the front brake shoes are being pulled away from the fork, the area of the caliper where it attaches to the fork crown is going in the opposite direction. So when you are braking your front brake caliper is being pushed into the fork giving it more stability. Mounted on one side, it's pushing the stays; mounted on the other, it's pulling them. Either way, it's the same force. Correct, but when it's pulling away from the stays, the only thing keeping it there is the mounting bolt. All the stress of the braking is transfered through the mounting bolt and nut. The bolt itself bends and is not inelastic. And the hold that the bolt goes through is not perfectly flush with the bolt. But on the front brake, the entire brake caliper assembly is being forced into the frame which is for the most part immovable and thus gives better stability. Talk to any frame builder or any engineer at Shimano or Campy or SRAM and they will all tell you this. Most good mechanics know this too. The mounting bolt will bent toward the wheel when it's mounted on the rear of the stay and bend away from the tire when it's mounted on the front of the stay. Correct, except in your front brake, most of the force is transfered into the frame which is for the most part an immovable object. On the rear brake, the brake caliper is being pulled into the air away from the frame. If you are a 250 pound rider (or a tandem bike) and routeinly go down 55 mph descents and need to stop, you would want your rear brake mounted opposite of where it normally is. Magilla A rear mounted caliper will move the pads down the rim toward the hub if it bends under hard braking and up the rim if it's front mounted. So a front mounted caliper will show a very small increase in clamping because the rim is very slightly wedge shaped (a Mavic Open Pro measures .780" at the outer edge and .769" at the furthest inside edge of the brake track). But all that is moot because you can easily lock up a rear wheel under hard braking. Additional brake clamping on the rear is simply unnecessary. Which is why I pointed out the reason for Campy's differential brake set up. -- tanx, Howard Caught playing safe It's a bored game remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok? |
#114
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
On Nov 7, 8:44*am, MagillaGorilla wrote:
Howard Kveck wrote: * *Mmm, I think if you look at a bike and the direction the wheel is rotating, you'll see that the rotation is pushing the brake pads toward the stays when the caliper is mounted on the back, like they almost all are. Correct. *That's what I said. *But what you don't seem to understand is this causes the brake caliper at the MOUNTING BOLT to be pulled away from the frame. * Whereas on your front brake, the roatation force of the wheel is pushing your brake caliper INTO the frame giving your front brake more stability than your rear brake during heavy braking. The front brake is mounted on the fork, not frame. The rest of your terminology is also apparently chosen at random. The caliper isn't being supported any more by the stays either way it's mounted. Yes it is because during braking, when the front brake shoes are being pulled away from the fork, the area of the caliper where it attaches to the fork crown is going in the opposite direction. *So when you are braking your front brake caliper is being pushed into the fork giving it more stability. The brake shoes move forward, and the calipers move back? Jesus, you are a maroon. Whip up a force diagram for your own edification. No need to post it as there are no surprises in the diagram for anyone else. But at least you got the fork mounting correct. Mounted on one side, it's pushing the stays; mounted on the other, it's pulling them. Either way, it's the same force. It is so sad that you have to point this out to Mascot. Correct, but when it's pulling away from the stays, the only thing keeping it there is the mounting bolt. * All the stress of the braking is transfered through the mounting bolt and nut. The bolt itself bends and is not inelastic. And the hold that the bolt goes through is not perfectly flush with the bolt. *But on the front brake, the entire brake caliper assembly is being forced into the frame which is for the most part immovable and thus gives better stability. Damn, back to the frame! You do realize that there is a fork AND a frame on a bicycle and they are not synonymous, right? The mounting bolt is elastic, but the frame is immovable...? Get your money back. Correct, except in your front brake, most of the force is transfered into the frame which is for the most part an immovable object. *On the rear brake, the brake caliper is being pulled into the air away from the frame. Please describe, for entertainment purposes, the braking forces on a bicycle that are not "transferred" to the frame. Your terminology is faulty, your understanding of the physics sketchy, and knowledge of engineering is non-existent. I've had conversations with pilots - I don't pretend to understand how to fly a plane. R |
#115
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
On 7 Nov, 12:58, MagillaGorilla wrote:
thirty-six wrote: Mechanic/framebuilders use systems that work. *I know two quite well and have spoken to a handful of others over the years although never about (bicycle) brake calipers. *I had more important considerations than this. *Leaving components accessible allows for proper servicing without frustrating access. In order to do any meaningful service on a brake caliper, you have to remove it from the frame. *Positing it on either side fo the seat stays will not matter for any minor maintenance that does not require its removal. * What's there to service in a brake caliper while mounted to the frame anyway? First of all, there is no point to ever removing a caliper for service unless you have it tucked behind the frame structure. Doing so allows for error in reassembling to the frame. The frequent service involves an inspection of the brake pad condition and cleaning of debris, possibly deepening of water channels and checking for smooth action of the caliper. It will also include adjustment to account for wear in the pads and possibly aditional cable lubrication. These actions need to be performed after every 100miles for the checks and take just a few seconds. With the caliper tucked away, there will be a tendency to ignore the brake until it's performance is poor or non-existant, unless it's picked up during pre-race machine examination checks. Hiding it behind the stays makes everything a little awkward. It would still (rear caliper in front of stays) produce a servo action on a v-shape braking surface so resulting in increasing tendency to skid the rear wheel. Not what I'd want when trail braking as I bank into a corner. This is why you should use a normal mounted rear brake for trail braking, the front can be difficult to modulate accurately enough for trail braking at small forces. It's also a reason (with normal attatchment) behind less brake squeal from the rear brake/rim combination. |
#116
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
On 7 Nov, 01:34, William Asher wrote:
Fred Fredburger wrote: thirty-six wrote: On 6 Nov, 23:25, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 6, 6:10 pm, William Asher wrote: Fred Fredburger wrote: William Asher wrote: And you always claimed skills learned in rbt would never be applicable anywhere else. * RBT? I thought he was channeling old Star Trek episodes. The "negative servo" and "inverse servo" are things that should be said just prior to "reversing the polarity". Does Scotty hang out in RBT? Scotty never really went in for techno-babble, that was more of a TNG thing. *So Geordi LaForge might have said something about the warp core stability drive having an inverse servo coupling because the caliper arms were mounting in front of the neutronium struts holding the axial bearings for the plasma couplers to the antimatter chamber (in contrast to earlier designs where the caliper arms were behind the neutronium struts, which led to the less stable positive servo coupling, even with mudguards), Scotty would just have said "Aye Captain, but the engines are going to overheat." *Or so I've heard anyway, I never watched either show. * Don't admit **** like that in public, you anti-geek geek. *I find it...fascinating, that you know Geordi's name, and the correct spelling, but you've never watched the show. *Uh huh - no, seriously, I'll pull out, you don't have to worry because the check is in the mail and I've never lied in my life and I've never felt like this before unless you count last week. The algorithm is as such - three words strung together. *Plasma induction coil, or dilithium concentrator coupling. *Three words - two words just makes you sound stupid. R Huh? * If anything you want the aluminium front caliper behind the ferrous carbon crown so that with typical aluminium section rims which have a slight flare to their extremity the retarding elastomer controllers will move towards the central travellator bearing so providing a more controllable inverse servo coupling. * The negative servo effect already exists with the rear retarding device and the consequences of a diving rear brake, with the caliper jamming the air- filled elastic bearings, are likely of little concern. *Water repelling covers will prevent wheel jamming with brake mount failure. I preferred my first go. Your second attempt has the advantage of including the word "retard". But they're both very impressive. You know, retard is to usenet what bacon is to food. -- Bill Asher mmmm, bacon.. Fridge, target, go... |
#117
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
On 7 Nov, 16:37, thirty-six wrote:
On 7 Nov, 01:34, William Asher wrote: Fred Fredburger wrote: thirty-six wrote: On 6 Nov, 23:25, RicodJour wrote: On Nov 6, 6:10 pm, William Asher wrote: Fred Fredburger wrote: William Asher wrote: And you always claimed skills learned in rbt would never be applicable anywhere else. * RBT? I thought he was channeling old Star Trek episodes. The "negative servo" and "inverse servo" are things that should be said just prior to "reversing the polarity". Does Scotty hang out in RBT? Scotty never really went in for techno-babble, that was more of a TNG thing. *So Geordi LaForge might have said something about the warp core stability drive having an inverse servo coupling because the caliper arms were mounting in front of the neutronium struts holding the axial bearings for the plasma couplers to the antimatter chamber (in contrast to earlier designs where the caliper arms were behind the neutronium struts, which led to the less stable positive servo coupling, even with mudguards), Scotty would just have said "Aye Captain, but the engines are going to overheat." *Or so I've heard anyway, I never watched either show.. * Don't admit **** like that in public, you anti-geek geek. *I find it...fascinating, that you know Geordi's name, and the correct spelling, but you've never watched the show. *Uh huh - no, seriously, I'll pull out, you don't have to worry because the check is in the mail and I've never lied in my life and I've never felt like this before unless you count last week. The algorithm is as such - three words strung together. *Plasma induction coil, or dilithium concentrator coupling. *Three words - two words just makes you sound stupid. R Huh? * If anything you want the aluminium front caliper behind the ferrous carbon crown so that with typical aluminium section rims which have a slight flare to their extremity the retarding elastomer controllers will move towards the central travellator bearing so providing a more controllable inverse servo coupling. * The negative servo effect already exists with the rear retarding device and the consequences of a diving rear brake, with the caliper jamming the air- filled elastic bearings, are likely of little concern. *Water repelling covers will prevent wheel jamming with brake mount failure.. I preferred my first go. Your second attempt has the advantage of including the word "retard". But they're both very impressive. You know, retard is to usenet what bacon is to food. -- Bill Asher mmmm, bacon.. *Fridge, *target, *go... quite nice bacon,egg,cheese,gherkin(pickled),whlolemeal(ish) bread and butter. And tomato and erm hot (cayene) ketchup |
#118
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
On Nov 6, 7:07*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 6, 7:58*pm, Anton Berlin wrote: Maggie, if you can lock up either wheel and heat isn't a problem this is a stupid argument to make * *Who gives a **** if a wheel locks up by 300 or 303% *? We all know best braking is just at the level under lock up. All of his arguments for the past week have been, at best, stupid. It's time for a change in meds or some better weed, dude. Hey Margaret, do me a favor, run this thread by RBT and let's see what they have to day about you contention. R Only Maggie the Girlrilla would spend so much time arguing about something that he can't benefit financially from. |
#119
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
thirty-six wrote:
On 7 Nov, 12:58, MagillaGorilla wrote: thirty-six wrote: Mechanic/framebuilders use systems that work. *I know two quite well and have spoken to a handful of others over the years although never about (bicycle) brake calipers. *I had more important considerations than this. *Leaving components accessible allows for proper servicing without frustrating access. In order to do any meaningful service on a brake caliper, you have to remove it from the frame. *Positing it on either side fo the seat stays will not matter for any minor maintenance that does not require its removal. * What's there to service in a brake caliper while mounted to the frame anyway? First of all, there is no point to ever removing a caliper for service unless you have it tucked behind the frame structure. Another jackass who thinks "sealed" bearings are actually sealed and can't be contaminated. As far as brake calipers are concerned, they should be broken down and serviced at least once a year...more if you ride in the rain. Doing so allows for error in reassembling to the frame. Putting them back together is not considered difficult by even a beginner mechanic. The frequent service involves an inspection of the brake pad condition and cleaning of debris, possibly deepening of water channels and checking for smooth action of the caliper. Diagnostics are not considered maintenance. It will also include adjustment to account for wear in the pads and possibly aditional cable lubrication. Do me a favor, stop talking like the directions insert that comes with a Shimano 105 brake. These actions need to be performed after every 100miles for the checks and take just a few seconds. Rain is more of a factor than usage, let alone miles ridden. With the caliper tucked away, there will be a tendency to ignore the brake until it's performance is poor or non-existant, unless it's picked up during pre-race machine examination checks. Hiding it behind the stays makes everything a little awkward. No it doesn't because you pull the whole thing off, disassemble it, and then put it back together. It's called maintenance, not awkwardness. It would still (rear caliper in front of stays) produce a servo action on a v-shape braking surface so resulting in increasing tendency to skid the rear wheel. So then why do you allow for this on your front brake, according to you, if it's so bad? Thanks, Magilla |
#120
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Bicycle Stopping Distances
RicodJour wrote:
On Nov 7, 8:44*am, MagillaGorilla wrote: Howard Kveck wrote: * *Mmm, I think if you look at a bike and the direction the wheel is rotating, you'll see that the rotation is pushing the brake pads toward the stays when the caliper is mounted on the back, like they almost all are. Correct. *That's what I said. *But what you don't seem to understand is this causes the brake caliper at the MOUNTING BOLT to be pulled away from the frame. * Whereas on your front brake, the roatation force of the wheel is pushing your brake caliper INTO the frame giving your front brake more stability than your rear brake during heavy braking. The front brake is mounted on the fork, not frame. The rest of your terminology is also apparently chosen at random. Don't be a dick, you know what I mean. I used the word fork every now and then too. The caliper isn't being supported any more by the stays either way it's mounted. Yes it is because during braking, when the front brake shoes are being pulled away from the fork, the area of the caliper where it attaches to the fork crown is going in the opposite direction. *So when you are braking your front brake caliper is being pushed into the fork giving it more stability. The brake shoes move forward, and the calipers move back? Yes. You are a total idiot if you don't know that's how the forces transfer on your brakes. Jesus, you are a maroon. Okay. And you are a green. Whip up a force diagram for your own edification. Hey dumbass....how many ****ing mechanics and frame builders do you think I've spoken to in my life? I just had a ****ing conversation about this with an engineer who is also a frame builder. Who the **** do you think you're talking to? No need to post it as there are no surprises in the diagram for anyone else. But at least you got the fork mounting correct. Mounted on one side, it's pushing the stays; mounted on the other, it's pulling them. Either way, it's the same force. It is so sad that you have to point this out to Mascot. Correct, but when it's pulling away from the stays, the only thing keeping it there is the mounting bolt. * All the stress of the braking is transfered through the mounting bolt and nut. The bolt itself bends and is not inelastic. And the hold that the bolt goes through is not perfectly flush with the bolt. *But on the front brake, the entire brake caliper assembly is being forced into the frame which is for the most part immovable and thus gives better stability. Damn, back to the frame! You do realize that there is a fork AND a frame on a bicycle and they are not synonymous, right? Yes. Stop trying to act like I don't know that. Disingenuous arguments will make you lose credibility. The mounting bolt is elastic, but the frame is immovable...? Absolutely. Not only that but the whole that the mounting bolt goes through has some lateral play in it. Get your money back. Correct, except in your front brake, most of the force is transfered into the frame which is for the most part an immovable object. *On the rear brake, the brake caliper is being pulled into the air away from the frame. Please describe, for entertainment purposes, the braking forces on a bicycle that are not "transferred" to the frame. They're all transferred to the frame and rim, except on the front brake the caliper is pushed against the FORK (happy now, mother****er?) which makes braking more stable. On the rear brake, the forces are transferred through the bolt and nut which does not offer as much stability. Your terminology is faulty, your understanding of the physics sketchy, and knowledge of engineering is non-existent. I've had conversations with pilots - I don't pretend to understand how to fly a plane. R How many engineers at Shimano and SRAM have you spoken to in your life? How about framebuilders? My guess is ZERO. Thanks, Magilla |
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