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#1
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know?
These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. |
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#2
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On 11/14/2020 11:49 AM, landotter wrote:
I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. A couple millimeters end play sounds really excessive. My similar dynamos are adjusted for near zero end play. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#3
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:06:42 PM UTC-6, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/14/2020 11:49 AM, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens.. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. A couple millimeters end play sounds really excessive. My similar dynamos are adjusted for near zero end play. -- - Frank Krygowski I'll dial it in tightish and give it a whirl tonight. Seeing as there are no ball bearings and the impeller follows tire imperfections, I figured it might be one of those situations where a little slop was good. My weird theory is that it's not terribly important on a consumable dynamo but what's happening is that the LED draw is so little that the magnety spinny action isn't as strong to keep it centered in the bushing. It's a silly chasing rainbows thing as my bicycle is otherwise a silent appliance. Hahaha! |
#4
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On 11/14/2020 12:19 PM, landotter wrote:
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:06:42 PM UTC-6, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/14/2020 11:49 AM, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. A couple millimeters end play sounds really excessive. My similar dynamos are adjusted for near zero end play. -- - Frank Krygowski I'll dial it in tightish and give it a whirl tonight. Seeing as there are no ball bearings and the impeller follows tire imperfections, I figured it might be one of those situations where a little slop was good. My weird theory is that it's not terribly important on a consumable dynamo but what's happening is that the LED draw is so little that the magnety spinny action isn't as strong to keep it centered in the bushing. It's a silly chasing rainbows thing as my bicycle is otherwise a silent appliance. Hahaha! Most have a simple bronze journal, not a ball bearing. They do run much better with firm pressure than with occasional slip. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#5
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:40:32 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/14/2020 12:19 PM, landotter wrote: On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:06:42 PM UTC-6, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/14/2020 11:49 AM, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. A couple millimeters end play sounds really excessive. My similar dynamos are adjusted for near zero end play. -- - Frank Krygowski I'll dial it in tightish and give it a whirl tonight. Seeing as there are no ball bearings and the impeller follows tire imperfections, I figured it might be one of those situations where a little slop was good. My weird theory is that it's not terribly important on a consumable dynamo but what's happening is that the LED draw is so little that the magnety spinny action isn't as strong to keep it centered in the bushing. It's a silly chasing rainbows thing as my bicycle is otherwise a silent appliance. Hahaha! Most have a simple bronze journal, not a ball bearing. They do run much better with firm pressure than with occasional slip. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 I'll rotate the bracket for more pressure though I have zero slipping. The Schwalbe track mates with the rubber cover in a sickeningly romantic fashion. I figured the least amount of spring tension to prevent slipping would be the thing. But perhaps more is the ticket. For my next post, I'll bring up proper buggy whip adjustment. |
#6
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 8:49:22 AM UTC-8, landotter wrote:
I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy.. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. Be careful not to aim those LED lights too high. You can blind oncoming traffic. |
#7
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On 14/11/2020 19:40, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/14/2020 12:19 PM, landotter wrote: On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:06:42 PM UTC-6, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/14/2020 11:49 AM, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. A couple millimeters end play sounds really excessive. My similar dynamos are adjusted for near zero end play. -- - Frank Krygowski I'll dial it in tightish and give it a whirl tonight. Seeing as there are no ball bearings and the impeller follows tire imperfections, I figured it might be one of those situations where a little slop was good. My weird theory is that it's not terribly important on a consumable dynamo but what's happening is that the LED draw is so little that the magnety spinny action isn't as strong to keep it centered in the bushing. It's a silly chasing rainbows thing as my bicycle is otherwise a silent appliance. Hahaha! Most have a simple bronze journal, not a ball bearing.Â* They do run much better with firm pressure than with occasional slip. I may be wrong, but istr the nordlicht dynamos were ball bearing. I never found a bottle dynamo that didn't slip under some ****ty weather condition although the Nordlicht was quite good for its genre. I used a spoke dynamo for a while, they don't slip :-) |
#8
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:12:02 PM UTC-8, Tosspot wrote:
On 14/11/2020 19:40, AMuzi wrote: On 11/14/2020 12:19 PM, landotter wrote: On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:06:42 PM UTC-6, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/14/2020 11:49 AM, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. A couple millimeters end play sounds really excessive. My similar dynamos are adjusted for near zero end play. -- - Frank Krygowski I'll dial it in tightish and give it a whirl tonight. Seeing as there are no ball bearings and the impeller follows tire imperfections, I figured it might be one of those situations where a little slop was good. My weird theory is that it's not terribly important on a consumable dynamo but what's happening is that the LED draw is so little that the magnety spinny action isn't as strong to keep it centered in the bushing. It's a silly chasing rainbows thing as my bicycle is otherwise a silent appliance. Hahaha! Most have a simple bronze journal, not a ball bearing. They do run much better with firm pressure than with occasional slip. I may be wrong, but istr the nordlicht dynamos were ball bearing. I never found a bottle dynamo that didn't slip under some ****ty weather condition although the Nordlicht was quite good for its genre. I used a spoke dynamo for a while, they don't slip :-) I agree with you. I never saw a bottle dynamo that also didn't wear the tires out rapidly. Installing a hub dynamo was like a new world. I can't remember clearly but I think that I had a multispeed hub with a dynamo built into it as well. |
#9
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 1:21:55 PM UTC-6, wrote:
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 8:49:22 AM UTC-8, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens.. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. Be careful not to aim those LED lights too high. You can blind oncoming traffic. It's aimed to throw a beam at the ground that's appropriate for around 12-15mph riding on deadass dark paths. Mounted at the crown as lights should be.. I'm more highly irritated at flashing lights of any fashion. I don't have epilepsy but they still make me jerky. Germans do not approve. |
#10
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Proper impeller play on a Union (Con-tec)dynamo?
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 12:39:40 PM UTC-8, landotter wrote:
On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 1:21:55 PM UTC-6, wrote: On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 8:49:22 AM UTC-8, landotter wrote: I put a rear triangle dynamo on my retro roadster with a 50 lux Cordo LED lamp and it's the tits. Works great, weighs eh nuttin, and you can switch it 100% off. Cost about 12 bucks for the dynamo and 25 for the lamp. Oh boy. Big spender, but it kept the front wheel looking bulgy hubbed and new fanglish. 50 lux is fifty lux. works fine, but I wanna dial it in to get that edge riding across town to pick up fava beans, ya know? These days if you want a new silver olde timey looking jobber it's an AXA 8201 or the Con-tec DL-150. Both are a tenner and a bit. The Con-tec appears to be a rebranded Union-Marwi and the "U" on the spring cover is kind of a giveaway AND it comes with a little impeller cover, so it won out. I dripped a single drop of oil down the impeller shaft and then put a glob of red Sta-Plex grease on top of the bushing before putting on the roller and lock nut. Friction really ain't anything now. Spins like the dickens. Doesn't get hot. It's happy on a real dynamo track on a Schwalbe tire without too much pressure. But it still rattles a bit. I reckon it's the simple bearing whacking against the bushing. Would adjusting play even matter? I'v got it at a generous couple millimeters. My solution has been to listen to quiz shows at a medium volume and enjoying that the rattle has probably extended the life of my Crane bell as pedestrians seem very irritated by it. Be careful not to aim those LED lights too high. You can blind oncoming traffic. It's aimed to throw a beam at the ground that's appropriate for around 12-15mph riding on deadass dark paths. Mounted at the crown as lights should be. I'm more highly irritated at flashing lights of any fashion. I don't have epilepsy but they still make me jerky. Germans do not approve. Around here as long as you're polite with your lighting (we don't have bike paths as a rule that go anywhere) people give you a lot of clearance in the dark early morning. I would not ride on the streets between 2pm when the bars close and 4 pm when the Hispanics are tired of shooting each other. |
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