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#1
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Crankshaft end tapers.
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently
had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? |
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#2
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On Friday, 26 June 2020 11:57:52 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Yes, there can be different tapers on bottom bracket spindles. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html Cheers |
#3
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On Friday, 26 June 2020 12:46:38 UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 26 June 2020 11:57:52 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Yes, there can be different tapers on bottom bracket spindles. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html Cheers Edit. Add. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html |
#4
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Crankshaft end tapers.
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 26 June 2020 12:46:38 UTC-4, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Friday, 26 June 2020 11:57:52 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Yes, there can be different tapers on bottom bracket spindles. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html Cheers Edit. Add. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbtaper.html Hm. I still have the old one, so I suppose I ought to get the micrometer out and compare them. Assuming I can get the pedal off again without destroying it :-) Thanks. |
#5
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Welcome to JIS vs ISO. Chuck in the towel and move to JIS. I fought it for a few years, I didn't win -( |
#6
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On 6/26/2020 10:57 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? There are two common sections of the standard crank taper and they do not fit each other: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/3SPINDLE.JPG Your Ofmega cranks require the rightmost format. What you bought is shown center. (also, your original was asymmetric so now either your chainline is askew or the left crank is vary far outboard or both) Your Ofmega crank formerly used the most common extractor, 22x1mm which are cheap and ubiquitous. (the other sizes 23.0 and 23.35mm are obsolete and wouldn't start in your crank anyway. No one who has those tools would have lent it to you) Your current format is 'stripped' in that the threads are missing. Next time seat the tool fully in the crank arm on clean threads before attempting removal. Once you acquire the correct spindle, there's no reason not to install that damaged arm, just note that future removal may be destructive. If there's a competent shop near you a TA oversize extractor may be fitted but that may be more expensive than a replacement arm (many other brands interchange, Campagnolo, Sugino Mity, SR Royal, original New Dura Ace #7400, Sugino 75, Miche, Zeus, etc. Not Shimano current products not Sugino XD not made in china) People carp and bitch about mouting cranks on dry tapers or wet but whichever version of heresy you follow, lubricate your fastener regardless and torque to 35nm. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#7
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket spindle. Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A Google search turned up this: Thread Sizes Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare. On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench. https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds |
#9
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On Sat, 27 Jun 2020 09:57:22 +0200, Tosspot
wrote: On 26/06/2020 22:10, wrote: On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket spindle. Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A Google search turned up this: Thread Sizes Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare. On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench. https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds I will second that. You can waive that pedal wrench at recalcitrant pedals and they will **** their axles, unscrew themselves and fall to the floor in utter terror. And only $30 too. -- cheers, John B. |
#10
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Crankshaft end tapers.
wrote:
On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 10:57:52 AM UTC-5, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? No comment on your bottom bracket tapers or removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket spindle. Regarding your questions about pedal threads and removing pedals. A Google search turned up this: Of course, I meant 'crank arm' all along, but am something of a newbie when it comes to the correct names for things :-) I haven't had any problems getting pedals off. Thread Sizes Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare. On all pedals made in the last 40 years, you use a 15mm wrench on the pedal flats or a 6mm Allen wrench on the Allen hole in the end of the spindle. This is the best pedal removal wrench. https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds |
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