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#82
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Flat repair
On Tue, 14 Aug 2018 07:10:25 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote: On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote: Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again? 1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck, they even make their new products incompatible with their own products. 2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when they relie on results from very narrow test conditions. 3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail twice to have you walking. 1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible? 2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this. 3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally. Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you. You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products" or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles. What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless. -- Jay Beattie. How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with. Jan Heine, of Bicycle Quarterly, wrote an article a year, or so, ago that describes problems reported with narrow "road tires" blowing off the rim. The article describes a "test of a Compass Bon Jon Pass 700C x 35 mm tire on a wheel that we had measured carefully to make sure its diameter was exactly to spec." The tire was mounted and pumped up to various pressures and at approximately 108 psi the tire blew off the rim. As a result Compass recommends that "Based on this experience, we recommend: Do not exceed 60 psi (4 bar) when running Compass tires tubeless. If you need higher pressures, please use tubes. Since the problems with running tubeless tires at high pressures are not limited to Compass tires, I'd recommend this for all tubeless tires, and especially for high-performance tires that are relatively supple. His closing comment is that "Tubeless technology holds great promise, but like everything, it should be applied where it makes sense and where it is safe. In a future post, we'll talk about tips on how to set up Compass tires tubeless." See: https://janheine.wordpress.com/2017/...road-tubeless/ |
#83
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Flat repair
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:42:33 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 6:07:42 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote: On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote: Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again? 1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers.. Heck, they even make their new products incompatible with their own products. 2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when they relie on results from very narrow test conditions. 3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail twice to have you walking. 1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible? 2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this. 3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally. Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you. You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products" or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles. What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless. -- Jay Beattie. How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with. I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal? -- Jay Beattie. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY pfff..... One of the persons posting on that video indicates that he/she doesn't put in a tube but rather patches the tire with what look like a bacon strip. Mmmmmm. Bacon. https://shop.genuineinnovations.com/...ire-repair-kit Anyway, don't you need a special pump for tubeless to get that big burst of bead-setting air. Is a CO2 cartridge good enough? This is important to me because I want to make repairs as complex as possible being that I have nothing else to do in my life. Actually, though, I might go tubeless on the commuter if it means I can ride over spike strips, glass shards, hand-grenades, homeless, etc. -- Jay Beattie. First I have to find the problem tubeless solves for me. Lou |
#84
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Flat repair
On Tue, 14 Aug 2018 11:17:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:42:33 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 6:07:42 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote: On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote: Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again? 1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck, they even make their new products incompatible with their own products. 2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when they relie on results from very narrow test conditions. 3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail twice to have you walking. 1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible? 2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this. 3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally. Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you. You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products" or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles. What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless. -- Jay Beattie. How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with. I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal? -- Jay Beattie. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY pfff..... One of the persons posting on that video indicates that he/she doesn't put in a tube but rather patches the tire with what look like a bacon strip. Mmmmmm. Bacon. https://shop.genuineinnovations.com/...ire-repair-kit Anyway, don't you need a special pump for tubeless to get that big burst of bead-setting air. Is a CO2 cartridge good enough? This is important to me because I want to make repairs as complex as possible being that I have nothing else to do in my life. Actually, though, I might go tubeless on the commuter if it means I can ride over spike strips, glass shards, hand-grenades, homeless, etc. -- Jay Beattie. First I have to find the problem tubeless solves for me. Lou True, true :-) But of course, being NEW! and WONDERFULL! is enough for many folks :-) (and of course, some people put their faith in hose clamps and fence wire :-) |
#85
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Flat repair
On 8/14/2018 1:17 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:42:33 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 6:07:42 PM UTC+2, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote: On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote: Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again? 1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck, they even make their new products incompatible with their own products. 2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when they relie on results from very narrow test conditions. 3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail twice to have you walking. 1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible? 2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tir es at 110 psi could and did report this. 3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally. Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you. You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products" or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles. What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless. -- Jay Beattie. How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with. I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal? -- Jay Beattie. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY pfff..... One of the persons posting on that video indicates that he/she doesn't put in a tube but rather patches the tire with what look like a bacon strip. Mmmmmm. Bacon. https://shop.genuineinnovations.com/...ire-repair-kit Anyway, don't you need a special pump for tubeless to get that big burst of bead-setting air. Is a CO2 cartridge good enough? This is important to me because I want to make repairs as complex as possible being that I have nothing else to do in my life. Actually, though, I might go tubeless on the commuter if it means I can ride over spike strips, glass shards, hand-grenades, homeless, etc. -- Jay Beattie. First I have to find the problem tubeless solves for me. Lou Not enough latex spray on your girlfriend's furniture and carpets: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3BPzTXYlKI -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#86
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Flat repair
Duane wrote:
On 14/08/2018 12:07 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote: On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote: Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again? 1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck, they even make their new products incompatible with their own products. 2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when they relie on results from very narrow test conditions. 3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail twice to have you walking. 1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible? 2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this. 3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally. Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you. You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products" or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles. What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless. -- Jay Beattie. How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with. I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal? Same here. And the new paper money in Canada is plastic which works really well for booting a slit tire. I have no idea what you would do for tubeless tires. Yeah, but at an MSRP of $5, there's a real incentive to use something else to boot your tire, like a chunk of Tyvek. |
#87
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Flat repair
On 14/08/2018 3:32 PM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Duane wrote: On 14/08/2018 12:07 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 7:10:28 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 5:25:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:49:02 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Monday, August 13, 2018 at 3:03:25 PM UTC-7, news18 wrote: On 14/08/18 04:15, wrote: Can you people explain to me why you would buy innertubes, flat repair kits and various methods of inflating flatted tires when you don't have to flat a tire and only need to inflate it if you happen to get a large enough hole in it release sufficient air to soften the tire before it seals again? 1. Lock-in. For the ignorant, and you have to be ignorant not to have noticed how manufacturers try to lock customers into their product by making it incompatible with products from other manufacturers. Heck, they even make their new products incompatible with their own products. 2. Performance. I always laugh at claims of superior performance when they relie on results from very narrow test conditions. 3. Reliability; tubeless setup fails once. Tube and tyre need to fail twice to have you walking. 1. Exactly HOW are manufacturers trying to "lock us in" to their product when virtually every new wheels and every new tire tubeless compatible? 2. If you have ever run tests on mechanical components in your life than you know that it is impossible to test for every condition. What we have seen is testing by at least a half dozen source from tire manufacturers to Cycling News testing the rolling resistance of narrow to wide tires and they all report the same outcome - the rougher the roads the less rolling resistance wider tires at lower pressures have compared to narrower higher pressure tires. That is not "very narrow test conditions". The last video showed rolling resistance of the three different TYPES of tires. This was not meant to give precise measurements but relative differences. And as should come as not surprise to anyone capable of engineering, the tire that has the least intercomponent friction the less the relative rolling resistance. Again, these do nothing more than burst myths that have been surrounding bicycle tires for a long time. Anyone that went from the older 18 mm tires at 160 psi to 23 mm tires at 110 psi could and did report this. 3. Tubeless tires cannot fail from small goathead thorns or wires left on the road by wearing through steel belted tires that give you a tube tire flat. A dramatic cut in the tire will destroy them BOTH equally. Obviously you like carrying around two tubes, a patch kit, two CO2 cartridges and a filler and a mini-pump because it seems romantic to you. You are perfectly free to feel that the same technology used on every other rubber tired vehicle in the world is not suited to bicycles but if you're going to argue, don't use inadequate responses like "lock you in to their products" or "testing procedures are only for very narrow test conditions." when this isn't the case at all. It is far easier to test bicycle tire performance than those of a motorcycles. What do you do if a tubeless tire goes belly-up on a ride? Nothing is indestructible. I would still carry a tube and a pump and/or a CO2 cartridge even if I was on tubeless. -- Jay Beattie. How does a tubeless tire go "belly up" on a ride under different conditions than it would a tube tire? Explain to us all what you do if you get a massive cut or a broken cord on your tube tire? I really have a hard time dealing with people that don't think out what they are responding with. I boot casings with a dollar bill or a Cliff bar wrapper, held in place by an inner tube. What's the fix on a tubeless tire when you cut a casing or get a hole that won't self-seal? Same here. And the new paper money in Canada is plastic which works really well for booting a slit tire. I have no idea what you would do for tubeless tires. Yeah, but at an MSRP of $5, there's a real incentive to use something else to boot your tire, like a chunk of Tyvek. It's not like I'm going to keep the 5 bucks in the tire for very long once I get home... |
#88
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Flat repair
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:47:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Snipped https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY pfff..... Lou I like how they used a TUBE for the repair. Might as well just use a tube tire in the first place. Cheers |
#89
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Flat repair
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 1:35:34 PM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:47:13 PM UTC-4, wrote: Snipped https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY pfff..... Lou I like how they used a TUBE for the repair. Might as well just use a tube tire in the first place. Cheers Why? So that you can get five times the flats as a tubeless setup gets? Let me ask you again - why do you suppose that every other rubber tired vehicle has changed to tubeless? |
#90
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Flat repair
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 5:02:36 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 1:35:34 PM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Tuesday, August 14, 2018 at 12:47:13 PM UTC-4, wrote: Snipped https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4i0ttwnSszY pfff..... Lou I like how they used a TUBE for the repair. Might as well just use a tube tire in the first place. Cheers Why? So that you can get five times the flats as a tubeless setup gets? Let me ask you again - why do you suppose that every other rubber tired vehicle has changed to tubeless? Even when I do loaded (40 to 50 lbs of gear, food and water)touring for two weeks or so on dirt/gravel/trails in northern Ontario Canada I get very few flats in my 26" x 2.125" tires with INNER TUBES. Most trips I don't even get a flat. Why in the world would I want to mes with something that can be so hard to repair? All I have to do if I do get a flat is pull out the flatted tube, check the tire for any debris that has caused the flat and then install the new tube and pump the tire to the pressure needed. Then I can take my time in camp and repair the punctured tube. Tubeless might be okay for some to many of us tubless is an answer to a problem we don't have. Cheers |
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