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Schwinn vs Huffy



 
 
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  #21  
Old December 29th 04, 05:38 AM
A Muzi
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OP:
Which should I buy?


wrote:
If the Schwinn has a frame mounted derailleur go that
way you won't regret it.


What difference could it make? Bikes of that genre have
nice functional $14.95 rear derailleurs. If you should
happen to damage one or wear it out, they are readily
available. Even upgrade models at $20 and $25 . Of all
the factors I can think of, this is among the least important.

Get one that fits. Open bearing assemblies, grease them and
adjust properly. Spend a bit of time lubricating and
adjusting the brake and gear systems. Tension the wheels and
ride it.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
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  #22  
Old December 29th 04, 05:46 AM
Joe Haggadah
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"PSB" wrote in message
...

So which would you recommend?


Murray or C. Itoh.


  #23  
Old December 29th 04, 08:11 AM
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 23:24:37 -0500, PSB
wrote:

I'm six foot tall and about 160. I'll check closer into the Roadmaster
when I go back to the department store and make my decision then.

One more question, does the Roadmaster have holes where a bike rack can
be attached easily? I know the Schwinn Sidewinder does.


Dear PBS,

Unlike the shabby sort of incomplete bicycle that Lance
Armstrong is forced to ride by contract, the Fury Roadmaster
offers small flanges with four holes above the rear dropout,
two on either side, presumably for a rack that may well be
available at WalMart.

I also note a pair of bolts on the down-tube for attaching a
water-bottle frame.

Since I ride solely for pleasure (not sordid commercial gain
like Lance), I have no idea how the rest of the rack
attaches. Possibly around the seat post?

Much as it pains me to say so, you should give Ron Hardin's
Huffy recommendation serious consideration, since he's
tested the thing for years in actual commuting and an
impressive 48,000 miles, instead of stripping off its
water-bottle frame, sidestand, and reflectors and then
forcing it to roll a mere four miles per day through a park
for about nine months.

Carl Fogel
  #24  
Old December 29th 04, 09:00 AM
Mike Jacoubowsky
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So which would you recommend?

Murray or C. Itoh.


What's wrong with American Flyer?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


  #25  
Old December 29th 04, 09:02 AM
Mike Jacoubowsky
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Get one that fits. Open bearing assemblies, grease them and adjust
properly. Spend a bit of time lubricating and adjusting the brake and gear
systems. Tension the wheels and ride it.


Visions of Dave Stoller in his garage go dancing through my head...

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com


  #26  
Old December 29th 04, 09:04 AM
Werehatrack
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 23:46:35 -0500, "Joe Haggadah"
wrote:


"PSB" wrote in message
...

So which would you recommend?


Murray or C. Itoh.


Itoh printers are easier to find than Itoh bikes in the US...and when
was the last time you saw a Murray bike available new? ISTR that
Murray sold off its bike division to one of the borgs a while back.
--
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  #27  
Old December 29th 04, 09:19 AM
Werehatrack
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On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 08:00:29 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
wrote:

So which would you recommend?


Murray or C. Itoh.


What's wrong with American Flyer?


If you can get the rust off, and if the rims aren't full of termites,
nothing. But a JC Higgins is probably a better value.
--
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  #28  
Old December 29th 04, 03:02 PM
Ken Pisichko
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I basically agree with this article.

If you want cheap - then buy the cheapest. If you want something suitable
for commuting then start looking at more than the two cheap bicycles you
indicate. When i go to garage and other sales i see so many cheap bikes -
and then when i ask why they did not use the bikes the folks say the bike
did not fit, it did not work properly, it did not...

Cheap bikes might be OK for a spin around the block but that is IT!!

Get a used bike with good components. Who cares if it does not have the
latest in gadgetry?? I bought a 20 year old Peugeot at a garage sale and
with several adjustments to the seat and front bars it will be great for
commuting. It would be better to have fenders on it, but for $20 I guess I
can get fenders and still be farther ahead than buying a new bike similar
to what you are looking at.

Think outside the box and look at a quality used bike that will be much
more suitable for your needs as compared to the 2 new ones you are enamored
with...

wrote:

Neither. As commuters, they would probably do OK. But they are cheap
junk, and possibly like throwing money away. If you search in this
newsgroup for "Carl Fogel" "Roadmaster" and "Fury", you will find the
saga of a cheap dept. store bike.

You /should/ buy from your LBS. But not a new bike. A used one. A
decent, well-maintained, used bike can cost only a bit more than a new
dept. store bike-shaped toy, and is likely to have better components.
This means that you might get more life out of your used bike than you
would out of a new bike-shaped toy from some *Mart.

Locally, the LBSs have quite a bit of used inventory that they are
willing to make deals on because in our corner of North America, it's
winter, and bikes don't sell well here in the winter.
Good luck.

HAND,

E.P.


  #29  
Old December 29th 04, 03:23 PM
Ron Hardin
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A Muzi wrote:
Get one that fits. Open bearing assemblies, grease them and
adjust properly. Spend a bit of time lubricating and
adjusting the brake and gear systems. Tension the wheels and
ride it.


Fix what needs fixing when it proves it needs fixing. If you have
a tinkering fixation, that's another matter. You may enjoy it.

My Huffys work fine until something needs attention, and then I
attend to it. Bearings never have needed opening. Lubricate the
chain when it squeaks.

Every 10k miles or so, replace BB chainwheel chain and freewheel
together, when the chain finally starts popping off the chainwheel
startups. Huffy sells replacements over the phone.

The wheels are the best I've ever had, in not needing any attention
at all. I have 48k miles on the rear wheel, and it carries 40 lbs
of groceries a good part of the time too. No wobble, no squeak, no
anything. It's a MTB rim of course.

Mostly it's brake adjustment or freeing-up, or the great transmission
periodic replacement paroxysm.

Oh a wheel bearing needed a squirt of 3-in-1 last year. It was
squeaking.

These aren't Campy parts that you might want to have a fascination with.

--
Ron Hardin


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.
 




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