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  #11  
Old July 13th 19, 04:25 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
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Default Safety advice

On Saturday, July 13, 2019 at 7:43:16 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Saturday, July 13, 2019 at 12:49:08 AM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 12, 2019 at 5:46:02 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:


https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...ic.php?t=28143
"The first road frame from Cannondale was produced in 1983. It sold
for $350 and included the frame and fork. The fork was steel with
helical reinforcement ribs inside the steel steering tube. The frame
was instantly recognized for the oversized down tube and enlarged head
tube. The seat-stays and chain-stays were ovalized to reduce flex.
Unlike steel frames, there were no lugs; the aluminum tubes were
mitered, hand welded and then heat treated."

Cannondale people weren't born yesterday and know very well what they're doing.


I owned one, bought in '84 as a quick replacement for a cracked custom steel racing frame. I previously raced on the SJBC which was sponsored by Gary Klein (among others), so fat tubes were old news and suited me just fine in a 63cm frame. It was cheap, too -- and looked cheap with its cottage cheese welds. And speaking of derailleur hangers, I got something stuck in my rear wheel, it pulled the derailleur into the spokes and ripped off the hanger. I got a free replacement in 1986, no questions asked. I rode that replacement for almost 20 years until it fell apart. I did straighten the hanger a couple of times on that bike and even cold set the stays, which was nearly impossible. I think I moved them 2mm, which was close enough for a very tight 130mm hub.


Wow. I'm impressed you managed to cold set an early Cannnondale's stays. I
imagine that required a hydraulic jack, at least.

Of sorts -- I had threaded rod, nuts and washers that I used as a headset press before I got a real headset press. I just used that thing in reverse. To get the stays to take a permanent set, I had to move them a lot, and then they still didn't set much. And I couldn't really fine tune by running strings and yanking on one stay or the other. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html (early string theory). I have dropout alignment tools, so I did get the faces parallel.

That frame did not break at the stays, either. It developed a crack that propagated 3/4 the way around the DT just above the shift-lever boss hole. I was climbing up through the cemetery when my front end got really swampy feeling. I stopped to check for a flat and saw that my frame was falling apart. I still made it home the last few miles. It was the only frame Cannondale would not warranty. The local rep said that it just "wore out." That's when I bought the predecessor of my current CAADX and made the switch to mechanical discs. When that broke -- at the chain stays near the BB -- I did get a warranty replacement. Most of my Cannondale failures have been at the stays, none of which I ever cold-set.

-- Jay Beattie.

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