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#1
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Breaking rear axles (was: Getting Stuck Out Someplace)
"Richard Mlynarik" wrote in message
... How can a hub possibly "seem stiffer"? You probably find the axles feel "supple" and "responsive" as well. Because you can look down at Suzue hubs and see them flex. You can see the spacers move on the axle. Anyway, I must have broken at least a dozen Dura Ace rear axles (and similarly over-priced and sub-functional mis-designed parts from other brands and lines) back in the day. Well, I've only broken an axle once and it was on an old Raleigh. Perhaps even though I'm 6'4" tall and 200 lbs I ride easier than some people? The solution was the freehub, and has been since the mid 1980s. I'm not arguing that. But you have to admit that being able to use anyone's rear hub and anyone's freewheel was a heck of a lot better than having to match shifters, derailers, freehubs and cassettes. Get with the program. I have a Time VX, a Colnago C40, an Eddy Merckx EX, a Basso Loto, a Raleigh Team Cyclocross, a Look KG 240 - should I go on? My suspicions is that it is you who needs to get with the program. And as for how to get home when stuck out in most places: try to look non-psychotic, take a wheel off your bike (both to indicate "mechanical problem" and to make the bike less intimidating baggage), and stick out your thumb. I suggest you try that sometime when you have a fully loaded touring bike. |
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#2
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Breaking rear axles (was: Getting Stuck Out Someplace)
On Nov 29, 7:57*am, "Tom Kunich" cyclintom@yahoo. com wrote:
"Richard Mlynarik" wrote in message ... How can a hub possibly "seem stiffer"? You probably find the axles feel "supple" and "responsive" as well. Because you can look down at Suzue hubs and see them flex. You can see the spacers move on the axle. Anyway, I must have broken at least a dozen Dura Ace rear axles (and similarly over-priced and sub-functional mis-designed parts from other brands and lines) back in the day. Well, I've only broken an axle once and it was on an old Raleigh. Perhaps even though I'm 6'4" tall and 200 lbs I ride easier than some people? The solution was the freehub, and has been since the mid 1980s. I'm not arguing that. But you have to admit that being able to use anyone's rear hub and anyone's freewheel was a heck of a lot better than having to match shifters, derailers, freehubs and cassettes. Get with the program. C'mon Tom, gotta buy that new gadget NOW. Must show up at the coffee shop with the latest gizmo, like oversized handlebar, carbon everything, 1.5 inch lower headset bearing, compact frame..blah, blah, blah...or ya can't ride with us-so there!! I have NEVER owned a freehub type hub. I weight .1 offa ton and I haven't broken an axle for a decade. I have a Time VX, a Colnago C40, an Eddy Merckx EX, a Basso Loto, a Raleigh Team Cyclocross, a Look KG 240 - should I go on? My suspicions is that it is you who needs to get with the program. And as for how to get home when stuck out in most places: try to look non-psychotic, take a wheel off your bike (both to indicate "mechanical problem" and to make the bike less intimidating baggage), and stick out your thumb. I suggest you try that sometime when you have a fully loaded touring bike.. |
#3
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Breaking rear axles (was: Getting Stuck Out Someplace)
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" wrote in message ... On Nov 29, 7:57 am, "Tom Kunich" cyclintom@yahoo. com wrote: "Richard Mlynarik" wrote in message ... How can a hub possibly "seem stiffer"? You probably find the axles feel "supple" and "responsive" as well. Because you can look down at Suzue hubs and see them flex. You can see the spacers move on the axle. Anyway, I must have broken at least a dozen Dura Ace rear axles (and similarly over-priced and sub-functional mis-designed parts from other brands and lines) back in the day. Well, I've only broken an axle once and it was on an old Raleigh. Perhaps even though I'm 6'4" tall and 200 lbs I ride easier than some people? The solution was the freehub, and has been since the mid 1980s. I'm not arguing that. But you have to admit that being able to use anyone's rear hub and anyone's freewheel was a heck of a lot better than having to match shifters, derailers, freehubs and cassettes. Get with the program. C'mon Tom, gotta buy that new gadget NOW. Must show up at the coffee shop with the latest gizmo, like oversized handlebar, carbon everything, 1.5 inch lower headset bearing, compact frame..blah, blah, blah...or ya can't ride with us-so there!! I have NEVER owned a freehub type hub. I weight .1 offa ton and I haven't broken an axle for a decade. some stuff snipped Peter, Finally got your weight reference - thought you were saying that you weighed 0.1 off of a ton (= 2000 - 200 = 1800 pounds). Which seemed unbelievable, and a true testament to the bikes that you ride. I suspect that you are saying 0.1 of a ton (= 2000 * 0.1 = 200 pounds). Kerry |
#4
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Breaking rear axles (was: Getting Stuck Out Someplace)
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote: Well, I've only broken an axle once and it was on an old Raleigh. Perhaps even though I'm 6'4" tall and 200 lbs I ride easier than some people? [...] But you have to admit that being able to use anyone's rear hub and anyone's freewheel was a heck of a lot better than having to match shifters, derailers, freehubs and cassettes. C'mon Tom, gotta buy that new gadget NOW. Must show up at the coffee shop with the latest gizmo, like oversized handlebar, carbon everything, 1.5 inch lower headset bearing, compact frame..blah, blah, blah...or ya can't ride with us-so there!! I have NEVER owned a freehub type hub. I weight .1 offa ton and I haven't broken an axle for a decade. I have several bikes with freewheel hubs and 3/8 rear axles. At much closer to .2 of a ton, I haven't busted an axle in a long time. I take some special measures to help me in this goal: I almost always respace my hubs to have as little freewheel-side spacing as I can get away with. When I do this respacing, I swap to large-diameter, large cross-section steel spacers and/or locknuts, to stiffen the axle stack and better couple it to the dropout. I admit this is easier when there is a lathe available, but any packrattish bike shop will also serve the purpose. If the axle spacers and nuts are steel and very tight, and if a cartridge bearing hub is used with a spacer in between the bearings, then the axle can function in bending as a much thicker and stiffer structure. When a loose-ball hub is used, the axle within the hub becomes stiffer and stronger on the basis of being shorter between supports. Chalo |
#5
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Breaking rear axles (was: Getting Stuck Out Someplace)
On Nov 29, 3:46*pm, Chalo wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: Well, I've only broken an axle once and it was on an old Raleigh. Perhaps even though I'm 6'4" tall and 200 lbs I ride easier than some people? [...] But you have to admit that being able to use anyone's rear hub and anyone's freewheel was a heck of a lot better than having to match shifters, derailers, freehubs and cassettes. C'mon Tom, gotta buy that new gadget NOW. Must show up at the coffee shop with the latest gizmo, like oversized handlebar, carbon everything, 1.5 inch lower headset bearing, compact frame..blah, blah, blah...or ya can't ride with us-so there!! I have NEVER owned a freehub type hub. I weight .1 offa ton and I haven't broken an axle for a decade. I have several bikes with freewheel hubs and 3/8 rear axles. *At much closer to .2 of a ton, I haven't busted an axle in a long time. *I take some special measures to help me in this goal: I almost always respace my hubs to have as little freewheel-side spacing as I can get away with. *When I do this respacing, I swap to large-diameter, large cross-section steel spacers and/or locknuts, to stiffen the axle stack and better couple it to the dropout. *I admit this is easier when there is a lathe available, but any packrattish bike shop will also serve the purpose. If the axle spacers and nuts are steel and very tight, and if a cartridge bearing hub is used with a spacer in between the bearings, then the axle can function in bending as a much thicker and stiffer structure. *When a loose-ball hub is used, the axle within the hub becomes stiffer and stronger on the basis of being shorter between supports. Chalo AND make sure the droputs of your frame are parallel and the same spacing as the hub. I also space the hub before building to no more axle overhang than the freewheel stack I am using. Like lots of things 'bike', different design because of poor wrenching (like english threaded BBs). |
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