Anyone got anything to say about shimano's 540 wheelset?

I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they bulletproof
(or otherwise tough).

Ta
1992 Giant Kronos
1990 Dodsun TriAction
1987 Repco Traveller
1980 Raleigh Yukon

Paulus wrote:
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
bulletproof (or otherwise tough).
Ta 1992 Giant Kronos 1990 Dodsun TriAction 1987 Repco Traveller 1980
Raleigh Yukon

I have a pair of these wheels. They've done just over 1000 km. They came
with my recent bike that I bought mid-July. I also have a pair of
WH-R535 on my other bike. Shimano claims the R540 is lighter (I think
150 gm per pair) than the R535. Also they claim that the lateral
rigidity is up 20% and the hub mechanism is improved.

Comparing the two, I can say that the R540 wheels stay true longer than
R535. The hub operation seems to be smoother as it has a lot less hum
when free-spinning. However, R540 rear wheels have become famous for
their hoolahooping. Mine does it. Also it makes a clicking noise at the
same spot per rotation at speeds roughly faster than 25 kmh. Anyone else
have this problem? It happens only when the wheel is spinning freely
(not under pedalling load).





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Paulus wrote:
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
bulletproof (or otherwise tough).
Ta 1992 Giant Kronos 1990 Dodsun TriAction 1987 Repco Traveller 1980
Raleigh Yukon

I have a pair of these wheels. They've done just over 1000 km. They came
with my recent bike that I bought mid-July. I also have a pair of
WH-R535 on my other bike. Shimano claims the R540 is lighter (I think
150 gm per pair) than the R535. Also they claim that the lateral
rigidity is up 20% and the hub mechanism is improved.

Comparing the two, I can say that the R540 wheels stay true longer than
R535. The hub operation seems to be smoother as it has a lot less hum
when free-spinning. However, R540 rear wheels have become famous for
their hoolahooping. Mine does it. Also it makes a clicking noise at the
same spot per rotation at speeds roughly faster than 25 kmh. Anyone else
have this problem? It happens only when the wheel is spinning freely
(not under pedalling load).





--
--------------------------
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Paulus wrote:
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
bulletproof (or otherwise tough).



I've got the 535's, which I use as training wheels. I've had them for
about a year, probably doing an average of 150km per week. I ride from
Sth Melb to Footscray, along some of the worst roads and bike paths
imagineable.

I broke a spoke last week on my way home. When you lose a spoke, the rim
buckles pretty badly (we're talking undo the brake cable, not just
loosen it). Also, the nipple is on the hub, so after I pulled the spoke
out, the nipple which was still there got jammed and turned my wheel
into a fixed wheel. So it was a slow trip home, to say the least.

The rims are pretty bulletproof, as once I got a new spoke (for the
bargain price of $12) it pulled right back into line again.

I guess I'm moderately happy with the wheels, but can't help think that
a 36 spoke training wheel would have suited me better. I've only ever
broken spokes before when there was mechanical damage on the spokes from
where my deraileur failed.

These wheels look like race wheels, but the rims are pretty heavy, which
makes up for any reduction in spokes. They are a good talking point
though (everyone who comes inot my office makes some sort of comment).

Also, there's a big chance for problems if your brakes hit the spokes,
which could happen if they are misaligned.



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Paulus wrote:
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
bulletproof (or otherwise tough).



I've got the 535's, which I use as training wheels. I've had them for
about a year, probably doing an average of 150km per week. I ride from
Sth Melb to Footscray, along some of the worst roads and bike paths
imagineable.

I broke a spoke last week on my way home. When you lose a spoke, the rim
buckles pretty badly (we're talking undo the brake cable, not just
loosen it). Also, the nipple is on the hub, so after I pulled the spoke
out, the nipple which was still there got jammed and turned my wheel
into a fixed wheel. So it was a slow trip home, to say the least.

The rims are pretty bulletproof, as once I got a new spoke (for the
bargain price of $12) it pulled right back into line again.

I guess I'm moderately happy with the wheels, but can't help think that
a 36 spoke training wheel would have suited me better. I've only ever
broken spokes before when there was mechanical damage on the spokes from
where my deraileur failed.

These wheels look like race wheels, but the rims are pretty heavy, which
makes up for any reduction in spokes. They are a good talking point
though (everyone who comes inot my office makes some sort of comment).

Also, there's a big chance for problems if your brakes hit the spokes,
which could happen if they are misaligned.



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Hi Paulus,

The Shimano WHR-540 wheels came standard on the Avanti road bike i
bought about 2-3 months ago. I have so far done about 1200-1300km on
them and haven't had any problems. I am about 6"3 and weigh 110kgs so
i wasn't sure if the wheels would be able to cope, but so far I am
quite happy.

I only do recreational riding on the road (although some of the roads
are pretty average where I live- Berwick, 50k S.E of Melb) and don't do
any racing etc on them.

Anyway good luck on what you choose, James




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Hi Paulus,

The Shimano WHR-540 wheels came standard on the Avanti road bike i
bought about 2-3 months ago. I have so far done about 1200-1300km on
them and haven't had any problems. I am about 6"3 and weigh 110kgs so
i wasn't sure if the wheels would be able to cope, but so far I am
quite happy.

I only do recreational riding on the road (although some of the roads
are pretty average where I live- Berwick, 50k S.E of Melb) and don't do
any racing etc on them.

Anyway good luck on what you choose, James




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"Paulus" wrote in message .. .
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they bulletproof
(or otherwise tough).



They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
with eyelets.

"Paulus" wrote in message .. .
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy. I
tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they bulletproof
(or otherwise tough).



They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
with eyelets.

Rickster wrote:
"Paulus" wrote in message
.. .
I'm in the market for a new bike, and these wheels look pretty snazzy.
I tend to break spokes, so given these wheels have few, are they
bulletproof (or otherwise tough).

They look flash, but these wheels are a pile of el cheapo crap, heavy,
under spoked poo. Avoid them. I see them sneaking in on stacks of
bikes now adays. For the same price, get some wheels built on 105
hubs, 32 spokes, and since you say you tend to breaks spokes, get rims
with eyelets.



Similar to JAF, I got them as standard on an Avanti I bought six weeks
ago (I note that they're now on many of the 2004 Giants now as well). I
was a bit nervous about truing, but the LBS recommended them heartily.
I've probably only done 600km on them so far, but I've hit my fair share
of potholes when not paying attention and they've stacked up just fine
to date (knock on wood).

I used to have a Kronos myself, that I've had since the early 90's and
its wheels would definitely have required truing if I had hit the same
holes I have with this. Marvellous how far wheel design has
progressed...



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