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#1
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Chain waxing + graphite question
I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been
quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool "cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake. I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? Harry |
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#2
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Chain waxing + graphite question
On Tue, 07 Feb 2006 07:08:22 -0600, HarryB wrote:
I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? I don't add graphite and don't see what is would do. I do add maybe 5% motor oil to the wax. Parrafin wax is a bad lubricant. When a part gets scratched, the wax doesn't flow into the sratch. Maybe the small amount of oil in the wax will do that. I've had great luck in waxing chains in SoCal, where it is dry. I usually rewax when the chain squeeks. Getting caught in the rain will ruin a wax job almost instantly. I rode a waxed tandem chain in the rain one day. Next morning the dried chain already had rust spots. You can put a layer of screen on the bottom of your wax pot and avoid having to scrape the black layer off. |
#3
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Chain waxing + graphite question
"HarryB" wrote in message ... I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool "cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake. I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? Harry I've used this product in the past. Seems to work great. And now with a new distributor, should be available. www.chainbutter.com |
#4
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Chain waxing + graphite question
On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:15:51 -0600, "Mike"
wrote: "HarryB" wrote in message .. . I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool "cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake. I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? Harry I've used this product in the past. Seems to work great. And now with a new distributor, should be available. www.chainbutter.com I don't see where ChainButter is better than the hot wax method I presently use. They recommend basically the same procedure for ChainButter that I use for hot waxing my chains. However, I use a FryDaddy deep fryer to heat the wax, so there is little danger of fire. I don't keep accurate notes, but am quite sure I get much better mileage between waxings than the 300 - 500 miles they claim for ChainButter. [1] The hot wax cost me only pennys and I expect to use the same wax for a long time. The ChainButter costs $19.95 + shipping. [1] I recently replaced the drive chain on our tandem (it broke) which had just over 2,000 miles on it. I had waxed it either two or three times and it had only stretched 25% according to my Park Tools Chain Checker. Harry |
#5
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Chain waxing + graphite question
In article ,
HarryB wrote: I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool "cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake. I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? Harry Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet. Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon lubricant from Dupont. -- Mike DeMicco |
#6
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Chain waxing + graphite question
On Tue, 7 Feb 2006 17:15:51 -0600, "Mike"
wrote: "HarryB" wrote in message .. . .... I've used this product in the past. Seems to work great. And now with a new distributor, should be available. www.chainbutter.com How about hydrogenated palm oil or some other processed vegetable oil that's close to solid at room temperature? It would be a lot cheaper. Something like Crisco, but a little more solid. Cocoa butter? It would smell nice. |
#7
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Chain waxing + graphite question
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 09:45:22 -0800, Mike DeMicco
wrote: In article , HarryB wrote: I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool "cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake. I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? Harry Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet. Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon lubricant from Dupont. What is the exact name of this product, and why is it better than the hot wax method that I'm now using? My priorities are as follows (highest priority first): 1) Clean chain 2) Reduced chain wear 3) Low cost 4) Ease of relubing Harry |
#8
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Chain waxing + graphite question
On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 09:45:22 -0800, Mike DeMicco
wrote: Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet. Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon lubricant from Dupont. I assume this "pure Teflon lubricant" is some sort of marketing nonsense. Pure Teflon is solid. I suspect SB's Real Man Saddles would work better than Dupont's Real Man Teflon Lube... Pat Email address works as is. |
#9
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Chain waxing + graphite question
HarryB wrote: On Wed, 08 Feb 2006 09:45:22 -0800, Mike DeMicco wrote: In article , HarryB wrote: I have been hot waxing my chains for the last year or so and have been quite pleased with the results. Before I rewax I take the still cool "cake" of wax out of the cooker and scrape off the small amount of sediment (dirt) that has settled to the bottom of the cake. I have read that some people recommend adding some graphite to the wax to help increase the life of the chain. However, if I add graphite to the wax, wouldn't it settle to the bottom of the wax cake after I'm done with waxing? In that case, wouldn't I remove the graphite when I scrape off the sediment, defeating the purpose of adding the graphite? Harry Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet. Teflon is a better additive. In fact, lose the wax and use pure Teflon lubricant from Dupont. What is the exact name of this product, It *might* be "DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant", a liquid with teflon solids which sets up dry. On the back, it says Mfg. & Dist. By Finish Line, Inc. I've used it on a number of things (pivots, etc.) with good results, but never on a chain (I have my own "chain ritual"). The good news is that a 4oz bottle is ~$3.39 at a big box home improvement center, so it's much cheaper than stuff with the official Finish Line label. and why is it better than the hot wax method that I'm now using? My priorities are as follows (highest priority first): 1) Clean chain 2) Reduced chain wear 3) Low cost 4) Ease of relubing Harry |
#10
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Chain waxing + graphite question
Mike DeMicco wrote: Don't use graphite- it's messy and corrosive if the chain gets wet. Corrosive? How? E.P. |
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