#11
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Patent updates
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 10:57:07 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. -- Jay Beattie. -- Jay Beattie. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Lou Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? Aesthetics in part -- IMO, it also has to do with manufacturing ease. It's easy to put a hole and grommet in a CF frame rather than gluing or riveting a stop onto the frame. One upside is less rear brake cable slap on bikes with cable stops, like my old SuperSix. https://tinyurl.com/y4qqj7fk Otherwise, its much easier to slap-together a bike with open cable runs. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#12
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Patent updates
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 7:57:07 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. -- Jay Beattie. -- Jay Beattie. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Lou Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? -- - Frank Krygowski Well, lets see this was the first time I changed the cables in 5 years and it went pretty easy even with the removal of the crankset which is also pretty easy with the modern cranksets. So I think I can live with this little inconvenience for a cleaner look. Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. Lou Lou |
#13
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Patent updates
On Friday, 8 November 2019 15:28:22 UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 7:57:07 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. -- Jay Beattie. -- Jay Beattie. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Lou Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? -- - Frank Krygowski Well, lets see this was the first time I changed the cables in 5 years and it went pretty easy even with the removal of the crankset which is also pretty easy with the modern cranksets. So I think I can live with this little inconvenience for a cleaner look. Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. Lou Lou YMMV, but I'd not want a bicycle where I had to remove the crankset in order to install a cable or a cable housing. That you have to do that is just - WOW! Cheers |
#14
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Patent updates
On 11/8/2019 5:04 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 8 November 2019 15:28:22 UTC-5, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 7:57:07 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst exp erience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? Well, lets see this was the first time I changed the cables in 5 years and it went pretty easy even with the removal of the crankset which is also pretty easy with the modern cranksets. So I think I can live with this little inconvenience for a cleaner look. Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. YMMV, but I'd not want a bicycle where I had to remove the crankset in order to install a cable or a cable housing. That you have to do that is just - WOW! Not a new problem. 1984 Panasonic Team, among many others: http://www.yellowjersey.org/pta4.jpg Oh, and modern carbon frames have internal control lines in part because the previous format, glue-on cable stops, were found unworthy. Aesthetics do play a part but IMHO aesthetic trends _follow_ major manufacturer flailings at solutions to various problems. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#15
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Patent updates
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:28:22 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 7:57:07 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. -- Jay Beattie. -- Jay Beattie. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Lou Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? -- - Frank Krygowski Well, lets see this was the first time I changed the cables in 5 years and it went pretty easy even with the removal of the crankset which is also pretty easy with the modern cranksets. So I think I can live with this little inconvenience for a cleaner look. Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. Lou BTW, another upside to the "behind door number one" approach is that the BB guide doesn't get all muddy, and the cables don't stick, causing ghost shifting. On my Norco, the cables do not run through the BB but rather go under the BB insert, e.g. https://i1.wp.com/capovelo.com/wp-co...size=950%2C547 -- Jay Beattie |
#16
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Patent updates
On Saturday, November 9, 2019 at 12:04:03 AM UTC+1, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, 8 November 2019 15:28:22 UTC-5, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 7:57:07 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. -- Jay Beattie. -- Jay Beattie. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Lou Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? -- - Frank Krygowski Well, lets see this was the first time I changed the cables in 5 years and it went pretty easy even with the removal of the crankset which is also pretty easy with the modern cranksets. So I think I can live with this little inconvenience for a cleaner look. Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. Lou Lou YMMV, but I'd not want a bicycle where I had to remove the crankset in order to install a cable or a cable housing. That you have to do that is just - WOW! Cheers Well you don't have to but then you have to fiddle a lot more to get the cables installed. Since inspecting your crankset and bearings from time to time is always wise and the fact that the modern cranksets are removed and installed in minutes this is my preferred option now. Lou |
#18
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Patent updates
On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:51:27 PM UTC, James wrote:
On 8/11/19 6:31 am, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ Oh how I long for all electric wireless brakes and gears. -- JS Preferably radio controlled. The wiring on my Trek Smover with electronic gear changing and suspension was a pain to turn into a neat installation. Eventually I took a piece of spiral cable tidy from my study to my bike and solved the problem by folding up the surplus wire in the spiral tidy, painted bike colour. Radio control would solve all these problems, though it may of course bring others with it. Andre Jute I'm not obsessive, but tidiness costs nothing and avoids confusion |
#19
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Patent updates
On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 8:28:22 PM UTC, wrote:
Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. Lou Touring cyclists have their own aesthetic, and they are very attached to their principles as expressed in what you call "bolted-on junk". I'm not defending them one way or the other, just pointing out that they have reasonable, logical preferences to do with they style of cycling. On their behalf, I thank you for your good manners in not mentioning it. To me the peloton on their drops with their arses in the air look like a bunch of gorillas in too-small cages, but I won't be mentioning it to them either. I don't expect them to share my aesthetic that machines should serve man, not be designed so badly that man must contort himself to the machine. Andre Jute Horses for courses |
#20
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Patent updates
On 11/9/2019 9:44 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/8/2019 3:28 PM, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 7:57:07 PM UTC+1, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 11/8/2019 9:51 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 1:18:13 AM UTC-8, wrote: On Friday, November 8, 2019 at 12:41:37 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 2:44:57 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/7/2019 4:30 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, November 7, 2019 at 11:31:54 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: We all pause to slap our foreheads. WTF? These are patentable designs?? https://bikerumor.com/2019/11/04/pat...es-for-others/ I would wonder how you could ever thread a hose/outer cable through that much of a length of bike without an actual inside tube. Depends on the frame and how much impedimenta is hidden inside. On some, drop in wire or hose, catch it in one's fingers through the big hole in front of the BB. For many, neodymium magnets and a stiff poly wire are the quickest solution. Others need something to pierce the swarf inside like a 1/16" welding rod. Then there are the odd frames now and again which just resist cable/hose installation for no good reason and tick off the mechanic. Typical tool: https://jagwire.com/products/tools/i...l-routing-tool If you're doing a bare frame, it's a PITA but not horrible. It is horrible if you're trying to snake a Di2 wire or hose or cable through a crowded DT into a little passage under the BB with existing cables/hoses/wires. And let's see what's behind door number one! https://tinyurl.com/yy9xwxwb This is the great time suck with modern bikes -- along with hidden nipples in pre-fab wheels and a few other annoyances. -- Jay Beattie. -- Jay Beattie. Last week I replaced for the first time the inner cables of the front and rear derailleur of my internal routed Canyon frame. It was very easy. The frame has a big removable plastic cap on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell with the cable guides integrated. I removed the cranks and put a liner (a piece of the smallest shrink tube) from the RD side over the old cable to the BB shell in the horizontal chainstay. After that it is a piece of cake. Lou Changing a cable isn't terrible. On my Norco, for example, the RD cable is all in housing. Installing the housing is a PITA getting it through the chain stay, but once in, cable replacement is easy. The FD cable is in housing from the lever to the DT, but then it stops and runs bare through the frame. My technique for running the FD cable is to pull the old cable just a bit out of the lever, cut off the button, pull off the outer housing and then I cut off a cable end cap so it has a hole in both ends, put the new cable through the lever, through the housing and crimp it to old cable with the cable cap and then just pull it through the frame. The openings are big enough to accommodate the cable cap, and then I just clip it off since there is so much excess cable anyway. I suppose I could use shrink wrap to join the cable for the pull, but I've never tried that. Running a new hydraulic hose or cable housing can be a pain depending on the frame and circumstances. My worst experience was running a new hose through a Roubaix when I couldn't use the old hose to pull because the meth-heads who stole the bike (the police brought it back) had cut the rear tube and shoved the end in the stay. I don't doubt that there are many clever ways of fishing cables through frame tubes. But isn't it amazing what people will put up with for aesthetics? -- - Frank Krygowski Well, lets see this was the first time I changed the cables in 5 years and it went pretty easy even with the removal of the crankset which is also pretty easy with the modern cranksets. So I think I can live with this little inconvenience for a cleaner look. Personally I find touring bikes incredibly ugly with all that bolted on junk but I don't have to ride one so I won't make a remark when it pops up here. Tastes vary, of course. And they're greatly affected by one's personal interests. When I was young, just discovering bicycling and a bit interested in racing, I thought the most beautiful bikes were pared-to-the-minimum racing bikes. But after a while, those all began to look the same to me. (Yawn - another bike with spider web wheels and holes drilled in the shift levers.) These days I'm more likely to stop and inspect a well-used touring bike or cargo bike, especially if it has custom features. Modern racing bikes look so... well, so plastic! But I do think steel frame fixies look cool. Now _that's_ minimalist! When we were young, top racing bicycles were notable for having no brazed bits, unlike 'cheap' ten speeders. The popular theory was that brazing a bottle or shift mount 'weakened' the frame. So the popular aesthetic was a pile of sloppy steel clamps with crappy screws. That changed. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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