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STI and cables



 
 
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  #1  
Old August 11th 08, 03:55 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 5
Default STI and cables

Help me, I am new to STI.

When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from
Aztec?

With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this
all worthwhile?
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  #2  
Old August 11th 08, 05:11 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Mike Jacoubowsky
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Posts: 2,972
Default STI and cables

wrote in message
...
Help me, I am new to STI.

When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from
Aztec?

With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this
all worthwhile?


How many miles do you have on the various drivetrain components? If you
don't let the chain get too stretched (actually, "lengthened" is the better
term, since the material in a chain doesn't actually stretch, but rather the
pins wear) too far, a cassette will usually last through 5 chains.

As for the cables themselves, they tend to fail somewhere between 7-12k
miles from my experience. Not a bad idea at that point to replace both
cables & housings. Something I should be doing more often on my own bike!
I'm not convinced that super-duper cables & housing are any better than
Shimano or Jagwire though.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


  #4  
Old August 11th 08, 09:14 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John Forrest Tomlinson
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Posts: 6,564
Default STI and cables

On Mon, 11 Aug 2008 03:02:52 -0500, Ben C wrote:

On 2008-08-11, wrote:
Help me, I am new to STI.

When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from
Aztec?


I don't know about non-stretch (some claim to be "pre-stretched"), but
it is worth getting stainless cables because the other ones do rust and
break rather quickly. Shimano cables are good. Also get the right size:
1.2mm diameter for gear cables, 1.5mm for brakes.

With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this
all worthwhile?


I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken.

Maybe you need to adjust the cable tension a little bit. Find where it's
clanking and decide if the front or rear derailleur is too far in or
out. It is possible one of the cables is starting to fray up a bit and
that is affecting things. See if you can get a look at it inside the
brifter. If that's the case then obviously replace it.


In my experience, after a bike is has been ridden for a few weeks with
the shift cables properly adjusted, any change in cable tension is a
sign that something is bent, breaking or about the break. Usually the
cables.
  #5  
Old August 11th 08, 12:51 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Art Harris
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Posts: 577
Default STI and cables

fuentedeb wrote:
When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from
Aztec?


Cables don't stretch, the housings may compress. Shimano or Jag Wire
cables are fine. Use metal ferrules on shift cable housing ends.


With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc.


What exactly is "clanging?" Is the chain rubbing the front derailleur
cage? Or rubbing an adjacent cog?

I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. *Is this
all worthwhile?


How many miles on them? The clanging is probably an adjustment on
chainline problem. It should be easy to find the problem if you put
the bike in a stand (or just hang the bike from hooks), and turn the
cranks.

Art Harris

  #6  
Old August 11th 08, 01:23 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Qui si parla Campagnolo Qui si parla Campagnolo is offline
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First recorded activity by CycleBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,259
Default STI and cables

On Aug 10, 8:55*pm, wrote:
Help me, I am new to STI.

When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from
Aztec?

With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. *Is this
all worthwhile?


After reading this thread and altho much good info can be gained, a
trip down to a competent, helpful bike shop will answer all your
questions and hopefully, give you good advice.
  #7  
Old August 11th 08, 03:05 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ben C
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Posts: 3,084
Default STI and cables

On 2008-08-11, John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
[...]
Maybe you need to adjust the cable tension a little bit. Find where it's
clanking and decide if the front or rear derailleur is too far in or
out. It is possible one of the cables is starting to fray up a bit and
that is affecting things. See if you can get a look at it inside the
brifter. If that's the case then obviously replace it.


In my experience, after a bike is has been ridden for a few weeks with
the shift cables properly adjusted, any change in cable tension is a
sign that something is bent, breaking or about the break. Usually the
cables.


Yes mine too. Maintenance-free until they break, but often a few strands
break first and the cable gets a little bit longer and that's the first
sign of trouble.

Another clue is spiky bits of frayed cable protruding from the rubber
brifter and jabbing you in the hands.
  #8  
Old August 11th 08, 05:39 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Mike Jacoubowsky
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Posts: 2,972
Default STI and cables

With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this
all worthwhile?


I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken.


A broken gear cable, on the "wrong" side of the hill, can really wreck a
ride. And the symptoms of a failing gear cable are so subtle they're rarely
recognized. The most-common is the ability to shift to a larger sprocket,
but reluctance for it to shift back down.

We don't replace gear cables often enough for our customers, because they
don't call attention to themselves. The timeline for the failure mode is
simply too short and rarely times itself just right for when it's in the
shop. That's why I think replacing them every 7k miles or so isn't such a
bad idea.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA



"Ben C" wrote in message
...
On 2008-08-11, wrote:
Help me, I am new to STI.

When replacing the cables should I get the non-stretch ones from
Aztec?


I don't know about non-stretch (some claim to be "pre-stretched"), but
it is worth getting stainless cables because the other ones do rust and
break rather quickly. Shimano cables are good. Also get the right size:
1.2mm diameter for gear cables, 1.5mm for brakes.

With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this
all worthwhile?


I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken.

Maybe you need to adjust the cable tension a little bit. Find where it's
clanking and decide if the front or rear derailleur is too far in or
out. It is possible one of the cables is starting to fray up a bit and
that is affecting things. See if you can get a look at it inside the
brifter. If that's the case then obviously replace it.

Replace the chain if 12 complete links measure longer than 12 1/16
inches. If they're longer than 12 1/8 inches, replace the cassette as
well.



  #9  
Old August 11th 08, 05:41 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Mike Jacoubowsky
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Posts: 2,972
Default STI and cables

Slightly off-topic, but do you think the newer Shimano 7900 system, which
pulls a great amount of cable per shift, might have fewer cable breaking
issues? My thinking is that the larger the radius of the part that spools up
the cable, the less stress from having it wound up tightly.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


  #10  
Old August 11th 08, 05:54 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ben C
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Posts: 3,084
Default STI and cables

On 2008-08-11, Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
With my Dura Ace STI the chain clanks lightly when I am in big ring
and middle cog. It is adjusted properly for the limits. A knowledgable
friend recommended replacing the cables etc
I am looking at replacing the cassette, chain, and cables. Is this
all worthwhile?


I wouldn't bother with replacing the cables until they're broken.


A broken gear cable, on the "wrong" side of the hill, can really wreck a
ride. And the symptoms of a failing gear cable are so subtle they're rarely
recognized. The most-common is the ability to shift to a larger sprocket,
but reluctance for it to shift back down.

We don't replace gear cables often enough for our customers, because they
don't call attention to themselves. The timeline for the failure mode is
simply too short and rarely times itself just right for when it's in the
shop. That's why I think replacing them every 7k miles or so isn't such a
bad idea.


Yes that probably isn't a bad idea-- they don't cost much, are quick to
change and can be relied upon to fail eventually.

You can always get home if one breaks (set the limit screw to give you a
reasonable gear) but it's a bit of a hassle. Bring a spare if touring in
a country without regular bike shops.
 




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