"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements"article

I've been asked to write one of those articles with the format of "10
Things..." that magazines seem to adore these days. This is on the
subject of buying bicycle headlights.

I completed a first draft, and the earlier thread on "overhanging
trees..." provided some good material and came just at the right time.

The drawings I made are not what will be published, they have a graphic
designer that will re-do them.

The word count for each section is suppose to be not more than 100 words
of text, though I think they'll give me a little leeway.

Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics
won't show up, so I put the first draft up he
http://nordicgroup.us/ten/

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 14:55:52 -0700, sms
wrote:

Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics
won't show up, so I put the first draft up he
http://nordicgroup.us/ten/

Nicely done. Good minimalist text. A few personal opinions, nit
picks, and commentoids:

1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was
that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo
power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk
only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is
inadequate. What giveth?

2. No mention of recharging the battery on the bicycle? Running out
of battery power without warning is a common risk. Of course, one
could carry spare batteries, but charge as you ride (during the day)
seems a much better idea. I'll confess to using throw away alkalines,
which have the decency to fade away, rather than suddenly crap out,
which gives me some warning.

3. Putting "Flash Mode" as #5, much less as a "must have"
requirement, seems a bit odd. I don't think it's worthy of the top
ten. I would replace it with something like "Being Seen" lights,
which could include side lighting.

4. Better yet, replace "Flash Mode" with "Minimum Side Leakage" so
that I don't get a face full of blinding light when leaning over the
handlebars. The Nebo Redline in the article is particularly bad for
this as the multi-faceted corners of the light shade to a wonderful
job of reflecting small amounts of light at odd angles that usually
end up in my face. The serrated edge is great as a weapon, but not
much else.

5. Do some reorganization of the text under the photos of the various
flashlights. Putting the selling price, next to the number of lumens,
makes the Silva Pave read like it was a $260,550 light.

6. I don't know about "Multiple Light Levels". You seem to suggest
that 3 levels are required, yet your text hints that "some" lights
have two, that are still acceptable. I don't have a problem with only
2 light levels on my Planet Earth Blaze. So, is the minimum
no-compromise requirement 2 or 3 levels of brightness?

Gotta run...


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 8/2/2013 3:39 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 14:55:52 -0700, sms
wrote:

Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics
won't show up, so I put the first draft up he
http://nordicgroup.us/ten/

Nicely done. Good minimalist text. A few personal opinions, nit
picks, and commentoids:

1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was
that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo
power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk
only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is
inadequate. What giveth?

Not my opinion. I have several bicycles in the fleet with dynamo wheels.
But the reality is that dynamo lights are sold in just a handful of
locations in the entire country (other than drugstore quality bottle
dynamos with incandescent lights). Most of the dynamo lights sold in the
U.S. come with one of the commute bicycles that include a hub dynamo
(some Breezer, Novara, and Tern models). Also, there are almost no
dynamo lights with a front flasher, the Planet Bike model is the only
one I know of.

2. No mention of recharging the battery on the bicycle? Running out
of battery power without warning is a common risk. Of course, one
could carry spare batteries, but charge as you ride (during the day)
seems a much better idea. I'll confess to using throw away alkalines,
which have the decency to fade away, rather than suddenly crap out,
which gives me some warning.

That is a good point. Some lights do offer USB recharging, and it would
be easy to hook a hub dynamo up to them through one of the adapters
available. But again, that's something that a vanishingly small number
of people would ever consider.

3. Putting "Flash Mode" as #5, much less as a "must have"
requirement, seems a bit odd.

The items are not in any specific order, I will disclose that. It's
really not an issue anyway since you'd be hard-pressed to buy a modern
bicycle light without a flash mode anymore.

4. Better yet, replace "Flash Mode" with "Minimum Side Leakage" so
that I don't get a face full of blinding light when leaning over the
handlebars. The Nebo Redline in the article is particularly bad for
this as the multi-faceted corners of the light shade to a wonderful
job of reflecting small amounts of light at odd angles that usually
end up in my face. The serrated edge is great as a weapon, but not
much else.

You need a weapon in Santa Cruz.

5. Do some reorganization of the text under the photos of the various
flashlights. Putting the selling price, next to the number of lumens,
makes the Silva Pave read like it was a $260,550 light.

Okay.

6. I don't know about "Multiple Light Levels". You seem to suggest
that 3 levels are required, yet your text hints that "some" lights
have two, that are still acceptable. I don't have a problem with only
2 light levels on my Planet Earth Blaze. So, is the minimum
no-compromise requirement 2 or 3 levels of brightness?

I'll fix that.

On Friday, August 2, 2013 4:55:52 PM UTC-5, sms wrote:
I've been asked to write one of those articles with the format of "10

Things..." that magazines seem to adore these days. This is on the

subject of buying bicycle headlights.



I completed a first draft, and the earlier thread on "overhanging

trees..." provided some good material and came just at the right time.



The drawings I made are not what will be published, they have a graphic

designer that will re-do them.



The word count for each section is suppose to be not more than 100 words

of text, though I think they'll give me a little leeway.



Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics

won't show up, so I put the first draft up he

http://nordicgroup.us/ten/

Stopped reading after the first section, you call a completely improper beam pattern the "optimal" one, and cross out what could be a decent one as "sub-optimal."

I'm starting to suspect that you've never actually used a purpose built bicycle light. I actually don't mean that as an insult, but you really should try one. Least expensive currently sold light I've seen with a "road" beam pattern that isn't a dyno light is the Ixon Basic at about $50, so it's not a bank breaker.

nate

On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 15:56:15 -0700, sms
wrote:

On 8/2/2013 3:39 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was
that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo
power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk
only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is
inadequate. What giveth?

Not my opinion. I have several bicycles in the fleet with dynamo wheels.
But the reality is that dynamo lights are sold in just a handful of
locations in the entire country (other than drugstore quality bottle
dynamos with incandescent lights).

Unfortunately true. I queried some of the local bike shops for dynamo
powered lights. Nobody had any in stock. Some didn't know what I was
asking. Still, I think you should mention dynamo power somewhere in
the laundry list.

Also, you might want to exclude bike lights that run on AAA or 123
size batteries. The AAA last about 1/3 as long as the AA equivalents.
The 123 size are too expensive.

But again, that's something that a vanishingly small number
of people would ever consider.

Perhaps this is the chicken or egg problem? The reason most people
don't consider dynamo power and USB charging is because it's not
commonly available. Were it more common, it might also be more
popular.

You need a weapon in Santa Cruz.

Done:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/slides/bicycle-flashlight.html

Requirement 11. It should be affordable.



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Friday, August 2, 2013 7:33:20 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 15:56:15 -0700, sms

wrote:



On 8/2/2013 3:39 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:



1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was

that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo

power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk

only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is

inadequate. What giveth?



Not my opinion. I have several bicycles in the fleet with dynamo wheels.

But the reality is that dynamo lights are sold in just a handful of

locations in the entire country (other than drugstore quality bottle

dynamos with incandescent lights).



Unfortunately true. I queried some of the local bike shops for dynamo

powered lights. Nobody had any in stock. Some didn't know what I was

asking. Still, I think you should mention dynamo power somewhere in

the laundry list.



Also, you might want to exclude bike lights that run on AAA or 123

size batteries. The AAA last about 1/3 as long as the AA equivalents.

The 123 size are too expensive.


CR123As aren't all that expensive if you know where to buy them, e.g. online. but they still are lithium primary cells e.g. one use. However there are RCR123s (rechargeable) available, just make sure that your light will handle them as they run at a slightly higher voltage than regular CR123As. Also the charger that you use for your rechargeable NiMHs won't work with them, they need their own charger.

Check out candlepowerforums for more info - Surefire flashlights are still popular (heck, I have one) and use 123s (although boring the bodies for e.g.. 18650s are popular.)

If you're going to suggest rechargeable lithiums though there needs to be some discussion of proper safety procedures as they can 'splode on you if not treated with respect. For that matter, there still needs to be a disclaimer that mixing new and used CR123A primaries can be quite dangerous - replace cells in complete sets only (and from the same package if possible, if not, at least same mfgr., similar date code, and check voltage to make sure there's not too much mismatch.) For most people, for a battery operated device I would recommend plain old AA Eneloops, as they're quite good and fairly foolproof with a good charger (e.g. Maha C9000 or similar.)

nate

On 8/2/2013 5:29 PM, N8N wrote:

Stopped reading after the first section, you call a completely improper beam pattern the "optimal" one, and cross out what could be a decent one as "sub-optimal.

I’m more than happy to explain this to you. What I can't so is to
understand it for you.

I'm starting to suspect that you've never actually used a purpose built bicycle light.

And you would be wrong. Again.

On Friday, August 2, 2013 7:51:50 PM UTC-5, sms wrote:
On 8/2/2013 5:29 PM, N8N wrote:



Stopped reading after the first section, you call a completely improper beam pattern the "optimal" one, and cross out what could be a decent one as "sub-optimal.



I’m more than happy to explain this to you. What I can't so is to

understand it for you.


Clearly not. You would also have to understand it yourself to attempt to explain it.



I'm starting to suspect that you've never actually used a purpose built bicycle light.



And you would be wrong. Again.

Assertion, and yet no proof whatsoever.

I actually have experience, as well as legislation (of various EU countries) on my side.

You have your say-so, without even anecdotal support.

On 8/2/2013 5:33 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Also, you might want to exclude bike lights that run on AAA or 123
size batteries. The AAA last about 1/3 as long as the AA equivalents.
The 123 size are too expensive.

That might be a good idea except that for some people the shorter run
time doesn't matter, especially if they're using rechargeables. Also,
many 3AA lights (with the batteries in a holder) can also use a single
18650 Li-Ion rechargeable.

Perhaps this is the chicken or egg problem? The reason most people
don't consider dynamo power and USB charging is because it's not
commonly available. Were it more common, it might also be more
popular.

I think the biggest problem is that you have to buy a new wheel with a
dynamo hub in _addition_ to the more expensive light. Not many people
will buy a hub and spokes and rebuild a wheel (and if you're buying
those items at retail you may as just buy a new wheel anyway).

BTW, I did mention dynamo lighting originally, and now I moved it to a
better place. I may add a link to Peter White's web site.

I need to be succinct in the article, not verbose.

You need a weapon in Santa Cruz.

Done:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/slides/bicycle-flashlight.html

That's a kludge, not a hack. You can't remove it quickly enough to use
it as a weapon. I would build a mount with two D size Maglite clips,
some aluminum flat bar, and a handlebar clamp (two clamps, given the
mass of that thing).
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N9ER. Similar to this
http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0239.JPG or this
http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0303.JPG but modified for the
greater mass of the 4D or 5D.

Requirement 11. It should be affordable.

Argh. I was at a focus group the other day for a piece of test equipment
that Tektronix is bringing out. They asked us for opinions on the
marketing and advertising materials they had prepared, i.e. "which of
these do you like best and which do you hate?" All of us hated the one
where they used "affordable." As Don Lancaster wrote, just substitute
"lemon scented" any time you see "affordable." affordable to someone
else. We also hated "as low as." The opinion of the engineers was to
give an actual price range, not to equivocate.

Yo, Scharfie. I agree with you, the EU-legal wide, flat beam shape isn't optimal. But Nate is right. You must find space in your 100 words to point out that the best lights available have some kind of a cutoff, and that they aren't available with a flashing mode. I have a zooming flashlight, branded by the German supermarket Lidl, with zoom and flash modes, and it throws nearly as much light as my BUMM IQ Fly driven off a 36V battery, and doesn't have the hotspot, but you put that flashlight on your bike in Germany, and you do not pass jaii.

Also, if there will be a bicycle revival, it will be an electric bike (pedelec) revival, so big-battery lamps like mine will become more commonplace. You may be right: the dynamo's time has come and gone unnoticed in the States.

But elsewhere for another decade or two, the dominant mode of bike lamps will be dynamo-powered. The problem with these soundbite articles is that they can offer no depth. Leaving dynamos out is a mistake because the best and most convenient dedicated bicycle lamps are driven by dynamos, and cutting edge cyclists in the States know this and use dynamo setups.

If you leave out dynamo lamps, you run the risk of looking like an insular provincial idiot, and we already have enough of those on RBT. Your objection of expense holds zero water: that's an artifact of the congenitally expensive Peter White having the import agency for the best lamps, which started overpriced anyway at the BUMM factory.

Andre Jute

On Friday, August 2, 2013 10:55:52 PM UTC+1, sms wrote:
I've been asked to write one of those articles with the format of "10

Things..." that magazines seem to adore these days. This is on the

subject of buying bicycle headlights.



I completed a first draft, and the earlier thread on "overhanging

trees..." provided some good material and came just at the right time.



The drawings I made are not what will be published, they have a graphic

designer that will re-do them.



The word count for each section is suppose to be not more than 100 words

of text, though I think they'll give me a little leeway.



Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics

won't show up, so I put the first draft up he

http://nordicgroup.us/ten/