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#11
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
Tad Marko wrote:
My first handbuilt set of wheels I built with the help of the LBS. Without knowing what to choose, I went with DT Revolution spokes and aluminum nipples to lace my Chorus hubs to Open Pro rims. The front wheel has been fine and has only needed truing once to fix a few spokes that had been left with some wind up in them. Since then it has stayed true. The rear wheel, however, has been a real pain. I have one spoke that is one spoke away from the weld on the non-drive side that only has a few kg of force on it. No matter what I do, if the other spokes are tensioned properly and the wheel is round and true, this one spoke will only have a little force on it. I can't see that the rim has anything more than the usual amount of out of round near the seam and there is no damage. It's been like this since new. This wheel never stays perfectly true even through one ride, and I suspect that this plus the aluminum nipples has something to do with this. Should I just accept a bit out of roundness on that part of the wheel to get some tension there, or are there any other suggestions? Thanks, Tad couple of things: 1. bike shops don't always allow for the elongation in tension that revos exhibit compared to other spokes. that often leaves then a little too long for their application, so it can be hard, particularly on a revo, to get any more tension if the thread is bottomed out - because they just twist. 2. as mentioned by everyone else, flat spots are common at seams. 3. don't use revos on the drive side - they are too elastic. 4. make sure the spokes are adequately "stress relieved" or bedded in. |
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#12
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
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#13
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
Tad Marko wrote: My first handbuilt set of wheels I built with the help of the LBS. Without knowing what to choose, I went with DT Revolution spokes and aluminum nipples to lace my Chorus hubs to Open Pro rims. The LBS needs to get a clue with regards to Revs spokes in any rear, IMO..ditto for aluminum nipps. The front wheel has been fine and has only needed truing once to fix a few spokes that had been left with some wind up in them. Since then it has stayed true. The rear wheel, however, has been a real pain. I have one spoke that is one spoke away from the weld on the non-drive side that only has a few kg of force on it. No matter what I do, if the other spokes are tensioned properly and the wheel is round and true, this one spoke will only have a little force on it. I can't see that the rim has anything more than the usual amount of out of round near the seam and there is no damage. It's been like this since new. This wheel never stays perfectly true even through one ride, and I suspect that this plus the aluminum nipples has something to do with this. I suspect that the tension is low...since it doesn't stay true, it is not round and one spoke is slack. Unless you hit something there and the rim is pushed in there. Should I just accept a bit out of roundness on that part of the wheel to get some tension there, or are there any other suggestions? Thiker spokes, brass nipps. BUT make sure the tension on the right side Revs is proper. 100 kgf. The only way to get this with certainty with these spokes is with a tensionometer. Thanks, Tad |
#14
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
Tad Marko wrote: Around 100 kgf according to the Park tensionometer. Good then. I'd say that you indeed have a flat spot, there at the seam. Raise the right side spoke tension around that spot, two spokes up on the right side in both directions...then raise the offending spoke tension, and the two up from that but yer gonna have a flat spot. I wouldn't recommend banging the flat spot out. Aluminum doesn't like to be bent back and forth. Generally tho, new Open Pros are pretty round. |
#15
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
Generally tho, new Open Pros are pretty round.
That alone is reason enough to get a warranty replacement. Gotta love Mavic quality these days, huh? -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
#16
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
jim beam wrote:
1. bike shops don't always allow for the elongation in tension that revos exhibit compared to other spokes. that often leaves then a little too long for their application, so it can be hard, particularly on a revo, to get any more tension if the thread is bottomed out - because they just twist. Assume: 300 mm spoke length, modulus 200 GPa, spoke tension 100 kgf Variable: 1.5 mm vs 2.0 mm spoke diameter Difference in elongation: 0.36 mm -- Dave dvt at psu dot edu |
#17
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
On Wed, 7 Dec 2005 10:36:26 -0500, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
wrote: Generally tho, new Open Pros are pretty round. That alone is reason enough to get a warranty replacement. Gotta love Mavic quality these days, huh? Particularly if your idea of a fun time on a Friday night is relacing a wheel. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#18
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
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#20
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True wheel has slack spoke, doesn't stay true
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote: wrote: I've removed flat spots from my rims several times. It didn't take a car jack. I used a bench vise and blocks of wood. I took a piece of 1" x 4" board, perhaps 10" long, and fastened a block cut from 2" x 4" on each end. The blocks have an angled surface, to match the rim's angle. This supports a span of the rim from the outside. Another block of wood presses against the flat spot on the inside (i.e. hub side), with several spokes removed for clearance. The sandwich fits into my bench vise. I tighten bit by bit, loosening occasionally to check if I've moved the rim enough. It's a bit fussy, but not too bad. Way easier than buying new components and building a new wheel, and much cheaper. - Frank Krygowski I can almost visualize, it but I can't figure out how all the parts hold together without flying apart. Do you have a schematic/pictures? Sorry, no digital camera lives here. I can try with ASCII art - tedious as that is! Here's a top view. The rim would be horizontal, the hub toward the top of the page. Sqeezing the vise shut makes the rim more concave upward in this sketch. | vise jaw | | ___________| ------------ | | wood block bearing on "inside" surface ------------- - - - -- -Rim goes here - - - ---------- ---------- | \ / | Two wood blocks | \ / | fastened to 1 x 4 ---------------------------------------------------------------- | 1 x 4 | --------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------- | | | vise jaw | - Frank Krygowski |
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