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#21
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:36:11 -0700, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-03-27 19:20, John B. wrote: On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 12:58:43 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. I believe that the thickest "standard" spoke is a 13 (US/British) gauge which is 2.3mm in diameter and I believe that most sports bikes use double butted spokes, as you have. But it might be that "single butted" spokes, i.e., 2.3mm the whole length are used on touring bikes. I see DT Swiss straight 13 gauge spokes listed on e-bay but I don't see them on DT Swiss's web pages although they do advertises a single butted "Sapim Strong Single Butted Spoke" that measures 2.3mm at the hub end and 2.0 at the threaded end. I've also seen galvanized "electric bike" 13 gauge spokes advertised on e-bay. You can buy complete wheels with 12 gauge spokes, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-.../dp/B006FCHTZQ But first I have to find out two things. The axle dimension (beats me why they don't state that in the specs) and I also have to somehow get out my BB because that's now shot as well. And before doing that I've got to fix the rear end of my MTB so I will not be sans bike. Now I understand why some folks have 5-6 bikes :-) On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. He probably doesn't know where I am riding and with what sort of load :-) I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. If you are worried about breaking drive side spokes in remote places there are tools made to repair the problem. Of course, one has to actually purchase and carry these tools for them to be of any use. An alternate is the flexible spokes made from the same material as bullet proof vests that can be installed without removing the cassette. Peter White goes on at some length about bicycle wheels and riders, but essentially he says: "If wheels are properly built, they will need little if any truing ever. The rim or hub should fail before the spokes. My guarantee covers spoke breakage and truing. If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you, and a spoke ever breaks that hasn't been obviously impacted and damaged by jamming the chain between the cassette cogs and the spokes or getting a foreign object caught in the spokes, I will replace that spoke free of charge, while you wait. If that wheel ever needs truing, I will true it while you wait, free of charge." Note the part that says "If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you". Since he has been in business for about 30 years it seems likely that he stands behind his guarantee. Oh, yes. I found a source of 12 gauge spokes. It seems that Huffy sells them. See: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/mer...ory_Co de=12G But a quick look at the Internet finds quite a number of sites that talk about loaded touring, in one case the writer refers to 12,000 miles of loaded touring on a set of wheels. In fact he talks about the hub bearing wearing out first. It is obvious that people are out there doing it and wheels are being made for such use. -- Cheers, John B. |
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#22
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 7:44:47 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:36:11 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-27 19:20, John B. wrote: On Mon, 27 Mar 2017 12:58:43 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-26 10:29, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, March 26, 2017 at 8:02:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-25 14:47, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:25:56 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, March 25, 2017 at 11:30:36 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-22 19:50, jbeattie wrote: On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 2:20:34 PM UTC-7, wrote: Did you try all the usual tricks for getting the bead over the rim, counsel? Did you push the valve stem up into the tire? Did you try pushing the bead on the opposite side over as far as possible toward the side you were trying to mount, in order to create more clearance to get the bead over the rim? Did you look all around the perimeter of the tire, trying to find places where the tube was caught under the bead? A little silicone spray on the bead, maybe? Occasionally I've bought tires that were extremely tight, but I've always been able to mount them by using these techniques. I'd much rather have a tight tire than one that is too loose. Good luck from your fellow pettifogger. I did the basics and didn't spend much time trying. It was so far off that I just grabbed another tire and got going. I'll try again later. Eventually you'll get it on. Push the 2nd bead as far you can, secure it in that "95% position" with two tire levers, then leave overnight. The stress seems to stretch it a wee bit. In the morning it'll "only" be 15-20 minutes more. What also helps if you must get it on same day is to squeeze high-quality tire levers between bead and rim wall right up to where it crosses over. Then rotate these levers back and forth 10-20 degrees while pushing. Dunk the lever tips in soap before. The levers will suffer a lot and I broke one from an expensive set. The feeling in my right thumb and middle finger tips still hasn't come back after the last one a couple months ago but who knows, those could also be carpal tunnel symptoms. It just happened right after mounting my last Gatorksin. And that will be my last Gatorskin. Sad because they gave me 2500mi per rear tire. Unless the side wall failed beforehand. I switched to CST Conquistare. Still under 400mi so I can't say how many miles they will last. The side walls sure are a lot better than on the Gatorskin. I have done my usual rides which include rough gravel and some offroad sections, zero visible damage. By that time Gatorskins already had li'l flaps, skin tags, frayed fibers and so on. If the CST lasts only 1500-2000mi it'll be ok as long as the price is low enough for such a short life. I got it for $15. Main thing is, I can get it onto the rim in minutes. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I refuse to use a tire that's that hard to mount. What do you do if you get a flat out on the road? Do you camp overnight so that the tire can stretch again after repairing or replacing the tube? Cheers Exactly. I'll just use the tire as a rear, which is built on a Velocity Touring Disc rim -- a simple, discontinued rim with a deeper well that works with any and all tires. The CR18 is an el-cheapo rim I bought as a quick replacement for my front dyno wheel. It's an '80s design throw-back. You got a front dyno wheel in the US? Do you have a link? The ones under $100 I've seen so far had rims that were too wide. SMS could send you a pile of links. I built mine -- first with an older beater MA3 which developed some spoke hole cracking not withstanding my diligent tensioning to 100-110kgf (within factory spec). I replaced it with a cheap and available CR18 from Universal. The rim also fit my needs in terms of ERD. I would have purchased a disc specific rim with a deeper section, but it would have meant buying new spokes. When it comes to wheels I am decadent and would like to buy a complete wheel. I know I will have to increase the spoke tension as usual but that's just 1/4 to 1/2 turn on each nipple. Spoking up and truing a whole wheel is just not my thing. BTW, I was rummaging around in my spoke box and found a bunch of 310mm from a 4X Weinmann Concave wheel I built in the late '70s. Those are totally useless now. I could use them for shish kebab skewers. I wish I had a Phil cutting/threading tool, but I could never recoup the cost. I wonder how that could work. On my road bike the spokes have 2.0mm diameter and the threaded ends are thicker at 2.2mm. On the rear I'd like to have something in the neigborhood of 3mm spoke diameter. Or more. I believe that the thickest "standard" spoke is a 13 (US/British) gauge which is 2.3mm in diameter and I believe that most sports bikes use double butted spokes, as you have. But it might be that "single butted" spokes, i.e., 2.3mm the whole length are used on touring bikes. I see DT Swiss straight 13 gauge spokes listed on e-bay but I don't see them on DT Swiss's web pages although they do advertises a single butted "Sapim Strong Single Butted Spoke" that measures 2.3mm at the hub end and 2.0 at the threaded end. I've also seen galvanized "electric bike" 13 gauge spokes advertised on e-bay. You can buy complete wheels with 12 gauge spokes, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-.../dp/B006FCHTZQ But first I have to find out two things. The axle dimension (beats me why they don't state that in the specs) and I also have to somehow get out my BB because that's now shot as well. And before doing that I've got to fix the rear end of my MTB so I will not be sans bike. Now I understand why some folks have 5-6 bikes :-) On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. He probably doesn't know where I am riding and with what sort of load :-) I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. If you are worried about breaking drive side spokes in remote places there are tools made to repair the problem. Of course, one has to actually purchase and carry these tools for them to be of any use. An alternate is the flexible spokes made from the same material as bullet proof vests that can be installed without removing the cassette. Peter White goes on at some length about bicycle wheels and riders, but essentially he says: "If wheels are properly built, they will need little if any truing ever. The rim or hub should fail before the spokes. My guarantee covers spoke breakage and truing. If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you, and a spoke ever breaks that hasn't been obviously impacted and damaged by jamming the chain between the cassette cogs and the spokes or getting a foreign object caught in the spokes, I will replace that spoke free of charge, while you wait. If that wheel ever needs truing, I will true it while you wait, free of charge." Note the part that says "If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you". Since he has been in business for about 30 years it seems likely that he stands behind his guarantee. Oh, yes. I found a source of 12 gauge spokes. It seems that Huffy sells them. See: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/mer...ory_Co de=12G But a quick look at the Internet finds quite a number of sites that talk about loaded touring, in one case the writer refers to 12,000 miles of loaded touring on a set of wheels. In fact he talks about the hub bearing wearing out first. It is obvious that people are out there doing it and wheels are being made for such use. Well, I used ordinary 1.8/2.0mm spokes on my tandem which routinely saw rider weights between 330 and 400lbs (my wife or a male friend). It was old-tech, too: 140mm rear hub with 36 spokes. I built them, and they worked perfectly, although we didn't ride the tandem on super-gnarly trail while being chased by mountain lions. -- Jay Beattie |
#23
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 3/28/2017 10:44 PM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:36:11 -0700, Joerg wrote: I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. If you are worried about breaking drive side spokes in remote places there are tools made to repair the problem. Of course, one has to actually purchase and carry these tools for them to be of any use. I can't imagine Joerg carrying the spare and the tool. He's the guy who doesn't carry a chain tool despite many broken chains, which he has chosen to repair using rocks and nails. Broken spoke in the outback? I'm sure there's always a barbed wire fence somewhere nearby. He can just use a rock to grind out a suitable length of fence wire, then twist it to splice it with the remains of the original spoke. He'll be on his way in not time at all - just a few hours. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#24
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-29 07:35, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 7:44:47 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote: On Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:36:11 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-27 19:20, John B. wrote: [...] On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. He probably doesn't know where I am riding and with what sort of load :-) I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. If you are worried about breaking drive side spokes in remote places there are tools made to repair the problem. Of course, one has to actually purchase and carry these tools for them to be of any use. An alternate is the flexible spokes made from the same material as bullet proof vests that can be installed without removing the cassette. Peter White goes on at some length about bicycle wheels and riders, but essentially he says: "If wheels are properly built, they will need little if any truing ever. The rim or hub should fail before the spokes. My guarantee covers spoke breakage and truing. If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you, and a spoke ever breaks that hasn't been obviously impacted and damaged by jamming the chain between the cassette cogs and the spokes or getting a foreign object caught in the spokes, I will replace that spoke free of charge, while you wait. If that wheel ever needs truing, I will true it while you wait, free of charge." A wee problem would be that the shipping back and forth is surely not included and would eat a lot of money. Not everyone in the country lives where Peter White does. Other than that I'd probably be back numerous times. Note the part that says "If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you". That is what I did when I bought this road bike. From a pro dealer who first asked me about my riding style and the typical turf. Then he said "Oh, in your case the usual fare won't do", took wider rims and thicker spokes and built the wheels. Since he has been in business for about 30 years it seems likely that he stands behind his guarantee. Oh, yes. I found a source of 12 gauge spokes. It seems that Huffy sells them. See: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/mer...ory_Co de=12G But a quick look at the Internet finds quite a number of sites that talk about loaded touring, in one case the writer refers to 12,000 miles of loaded touring on a set of wheels. In fact he talks about the hub bearing wearing out first. It is obvious that people are out there doing it and wheels are being made for such use. Well, I used ordinary 1.8/2.0mm spokes on my tandem which routinely Hey, finally someone understand the word "routinely" :-) saw rider weights between 330 and 400lbs (my wife or a male friend). It was old-tech, too: 140mm rear hub with 36 spokes. I built them, and they worked perfectly, although we didn't ride the tandem on super-gnarly trail while being chased by mountain lions. It depends where you ride. I often have no choice but to take sections of dirt road and the occasional stretch of singletrack even with the road bike. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-29 07:35, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 7:44:47 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote: On Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:36:11 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-27 19:20, John B. wrote: [...] On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. He probably doesn't know where I am riding and with what sort of load :-) I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. If you are worried about breaking drive side spokes in remote places there are tools made to repair the problem. Of course, one has to actually purchase and carry these tools for them to be of any use. An alternate is the flexible spokes made from the same material as bullet proof vests that can be installed without removing the cassette. Peter White goes on at some length about bicycle wheels and riders, but essentially he says: "If wheels are properly built, they will need little if any truing ever. The rim or hub should fail before the spokes. My guarantee covers spoke breakage and truing. If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you, and a spoke ever breaks that hasn't been obviously impacted and damaged by jamming the chain between the cassette cogs and the spokes or getting a foreign object caught in the spokes, I will replace that spoke free of charge, while you wait. If that wheel ever needs truing, I will true it while you wait, free of charge." A wee problem would be that the shipping back and forth is surely not included and would eat a lot of money. Not everyone in the country lives where Peter White does. Other than that I'd probably be back numerous times. Note the part that says "If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you". That is what I did when I bought this road bike. From a pro dealer who first asked me about my riding style and the typical turf. Then he said "Oh, in your case the usual fare won't do", took wider rims and thicker spokes and built the wheels. Since he has been in business for about 30 years it seems likely that he stands behind his guarantee. Oh, yes. I found a source of 12 gauge spokes. It seems that Huffy sells them. See: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/mer...ory_Co de=12G But a quick look at the Internet finds quite a number of sites that talk about loaded touring, in one case the writer refers to 12,000 miles of loaded touring on a set of wheels. In fact he talks about the hub bearing wearing out first. It is obvious that people are out there doing it and wheels are being made for such use. Well, I used ordinary 1.8/2.0mm spokes on my tandem which routinely Hey, finally someone understand the word "routinely" :-) saw rider weights between 330 and 400lbs (my wife or a male friend). It was old-tech, too: 140mm rear hub with 36 spokes. I built them, and they worked perfectly, although we didn't ride the tandem on super-gnarly trail while being chased by mountain lions. It depends where you ride. I often have no choice but to take sections of dirt road and the occasional stretch of singletrack even with the road bike. Some of my inner-city trails are now just running streams over rock, even the mud has been washed off with all the rain. This is more of a tire issue than a spoke issue, though. My wheels are doing fine. At the end of the day, even if you wanted to go with thick spokes, I don't know how you would get 12G spokes through the spoke holes in an ordinary road hub flange. -- Jay Beattie. |
#26
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-29 11:35, jbeattie wrote:
On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 at 9:55:52 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-29 07:35, jbeattie wrote: [...] saw rider weights between 330 and 400lbs (my wife or a male friend). It was old-tech, too: 140mm rear hub with 36 spokes. I built them, and they worked perfectly, although we didn't ride the tandem on super-gnarly trail while being chased by mountain lions. It depends where you ride. I often have no choice but to take sections of dirt road and the occasional stretch of singletrack even with the road bike. Some of my inner-city trails are now just running streams over rock, even the mud has been washed off with all the rain. This is more of a tire issue than a spoke issue, though. My wheels are doing fine. I have a steel frame road bike, weigh around 220lbs myself and typically carry a load. Also lots of hills and steep uphill intersections where I have to stop and then often step on it to clear traffic. That and offroad is where the spokes go kaputt. This is a typical unpaved road in our area: http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Chapparal1.JPG As for tires the only challenge I had was with the inadequate side walls of Gatorskins. Lost too many prematurely. Now trying CST Conquistare and, knock on wood, after about 350mi absolutely no visible effects, not even chafing. Gatorskins looked worn in the side walls by that time, often fiber strands were already flappping in the wind. If the CST tires give me 1500mi or more I'll have found my future tire. It was similar on the 29" MTB, side walls failing. Until I found that Asian tire where cheaper and to my surprise no more side wall blow-outs. Except for one violent burst where a whole chunk of tire flew off but that might have been a manufacturing defect. At the end of the day, even if you wanted to go with thick spokes, I don't know how you would get 12G spokes through the spoke holes in an ordinary road hub flange. That is one of the many reasons why I'd buy a complete wheel where someone has done so already :-) If not I'd drill, countersink, hone and polish. No big deal. The inside is a bit tough but for the decadent with money they sell angle grinding attachments. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#27
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 3/29/2017 12:55 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-03-29 07:35, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 at 7:44:47 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote: On Tue, 28 Mar 2017 07:36:11 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-27 19:20, John B. wrote: [...] On the other hand Peter White ( www.peterwhitecycles.com ) will give a lifetime guarantee on any wheel that he builds "according to his recommendation". As he has been doing this for something like 30 years I assume that he knows what he is doing. He probably doesn't know where I am riding and with what sort of load :-) I even broke spokes on bikes assembled and tuned by professionals. My main concern is Murphy's law because it states that if there is a spoke failure that is impossible to trim out well enough this will be at the farthest point from home. If you are worried about breaking drive side spokes in remote places there are tools made to repair the problem. Of course, one has to actually purchase and carry these tools for them to be of any use. An alternate is the flexible spokes made from the same material as bullet proof vests that can be installed without removing the cassette. Peter White goes on at some length about bicycle wheels and riders, but essentially he says: "If wheels are properly built, they will need little if any truing ever. The rim or hub should fail before the spokes. My guarantee covers spoke breakage and truing. If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you, and a spoke ever breaks that hasn't been obviously impacted and damaged by jamming the chain between the cassette cogs and the spokes or getting a foreign object caught in the spokes, I will replace that spoke free of charge, while you wait. If that wheel ever needs truing, I will true it while you wait, free of charge." A wee problem would be that the shipping back and forth is surely not included and would eat a lot of money. Not everyone in the country lives where Peter White does. Other than that I'd probably be back numerous times. Note the part that says "If you buy a wheel from me that I recommend for you". That is what I did when I bought this road bike. From a pro dealer who first asked me about my riding style and the typical turf. Then he said "Oh, in your case the usual fare won't do", took wider rims and thicker spokes and built the wheels. Since he has been in business for about 30 years it seems likely that he stands behind his guarantee. Oh, yes. I found a source of 12 gauge spokes. It seems that Huffy sells them. See: http://www.huskybicycles.com/mm5/mer...ory_Co de=12G But a quick look at the Internet finds quite a number of sites that talk about loaded touring, in one case the writer refers to 12,000 miles of loaded touring on a set of wheels. In fact he talks about the hub bearing wearing out first. It is obvious that people are out there doing it and wheels are being made for such use. Well, I used ordinary 1.8/2.0mm spokes on my tandem which routinely Hey, finally someone understand the word "routinely" :-) saw rider weights between 330 and 400lbs (my wife or a male friend). It was old-tech, too: 140mm rear hub with 36 spokes. I built them, and they worked perfectly, although we didn't ride the tandem on super-gnarly trail while being chased by mountain lions. It depends where you ride. I often have no choice but to take sections of dirt road and the occasional stretch of singletrack even with the road bike. That's not uncommon. To get to the house of one of my best friends, I usually shortcut through our forest preserve. Gravel road, single track trail through the forest edge and then through a grassy meadow, drop down off a curb and ride on. No problem. Jobst was famous for riding his road bike where most mountain bikers feared to go. Photos are online. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#28
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-29 13:08, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/29/2017 12:55 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-03-29 07:35, jbeattie wrote: [...] saw rider weights between 330 and 400lbs (my wife or a male friend). It was old-tech, too: 140mm rear hub with 36 spokes. I built them, and they worked perfectly, although we didn't ride the tandem on super-gnarly trail while being chased by mountain lions. It depends where you ride. I often have no choice but to take sections of dirt road and the occasional stretch of singletrack even with the road bike. That's not uncommon. To get to the house of one of my best friends, I usually shortcut through our forest preserve. Gravel road, single track trail through the forest edge and then through a grassy meadow, drop down off a curb and ride on. No problem. Jobst was famous for riding his road bike where most mountain bikers feared to go. Photos are online. So did I, almost since the training wheels had come off. This is why I always kept a large stash of new spokes. They broke all the time. While at university all I could afford for commuting were department road bikes and anything more would have been stolen anyhow. Each lasted about one year and afterwards was totally finished. Not a big deal because I could buy another used one for around $30. As I said, in my case that often also means cargo on the bike and that's was really does them in. I can get out of the saddle but the tens of lbs riding along in back won't. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#29
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 at 4:23:41 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped As I said, in my case that often also means cargo on the bike and that's was really does them in. I can get out of the saddle but the tens of lbs riding along in back won't. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Funny thing is that many people TOUR with HEAVY LOADS on dirt roads at least as bad as your 'Chapparal' image yet don't have problems with busted sopkes or busted wheels. Also, just drilling out a normal hub to take those large diameter spokes you talk about, will most likely cause the hub flange to fail. But then again that'd give you something else to complain about. Trade in the bicycle for a motorcycle and get someone to afix a pedal drive to it to cure all your bicycle riding woes. Cheers |
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Gatorskins: Joerg Wins!
On 2017-03-29 16:42, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 at 4:23:41 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: Snipped As I said, in my case that often also means cargo on the bike and that's was really does them in. I can get out of the saddle but the tens of lbs riding along in back won't. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Funny thing is that many people TOUR with HEAVY LOADS on dirt roads at least as bad as your 'Chapparal' image yet don't have problems with busted sopkes or busted wheels. My experience is different. I have participated in many tours with tents and all that. Broken spokes were common among pretty much all riders. Also, just drilling out a normal hub to take those large diameter spokes you talk about, will most likely cause the hub flange to fail. But then again that'd give you something else to complain about. You have to pick one with enough meat on there and not some weight weenie version. Trade in the bicycle for a motorcycle and get someone to afix a pedal drive to it to cure all your bicycle riding woes. Funny thing is that the MTB wheels hold up rather well. No busted spokes there yet and that bike gets used hard. It took me a while to find decvent tires but I've got those now. Now, about that bent shock mount ... -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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