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Threading a spoke
Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put
threads on a spoke? Coz |
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#2
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Threading a spoke
TheCoz wrote:
Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? Coz Phil Wood spoke machine. http://www.philwood.com/products/tools/spokemach.php We're not on that list and I have a low serial number too! Spoke threads are rolled, not cut. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#3
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Threading a spoke
TheCoz wrote:
Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? The Hozan tool is the one that's most likely to be found in a bike shop or enthusiast's home workshop: http://www.hozan.co.jp/cycle_e/catalog/wheel/C-700.htm It's around $200 last time I checked, though. The thread rolling dies don't last as long as you'd hope. And it's incredibly tedious to do a whole wheel's worth. Chalo |
#4
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Threading a spoke
On Dec 19, 8:53*pm, AMuzi wrote:
TheCoz wrote: Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? Coz Phil Wood spoke machine.http://www.philwood.com/products/tools/spokemach.php We're not on that list and I have a low serial number too! Spoke threads are rolled, not cut. -- Andrew Muzi * www.yellowjersey.org/ * Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Dear Coz, If you prefer new-fangled equipment, consider Andrew's Phil Woods suggstion or the Hozan threader: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22s...r=&safe=images But for the same price, you can get much sturdier equipment from the Waterbury Farrel Foundry and Machine Company Well worth the $225 it cost in 1893: http://books.google.com/books?id=lNw...page&q&f=false And don't forget the other end of the spoke--pick up a spoke heading machine, too. See the preceding page for the $375 bargain. Of course, there's been a tiny increase in real cost since the bike boom, due to inflation. That $225 is about $5600 new-fangled dollars, none of them in gold or silver. Cheers, Carl Fogel |
#5
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Threading a spoke
On 12/19/2011 9:46 PM, TheCoz wrote:
Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? Coz "2.2mm x 56" is a metric-ized conversion of the old English #2-56 size, for which you can find regular dies. Like this one, for $6.39 http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s417.htm ...... It can be difficult to start a die on a shaft and have it stay centered for more than two or three diameters, so you might have to rig up something to hold the spoke and die concentric in use. I'd bet you could do that for a lot less than $3500, and maybe quite a bit less than $200. It would probably not be as quick as those devices however. My first guess is you would need tapping fluid, at least a small vise to hold the spoke in, and some small pieces of brass to use as jaws to avoid marring the spoke. All that's still much less than $200 tho. It is true that spoke machines normally produce rolled threads, and not cut threads--but that is only a matter of expediency. Most threading in metalworking is cut, and I've not ever seen any claims that rolled thread was stronger. {-what I have seen indicates that rolled thread is cheaper and less precise. The cheap all-thread rod that the hardware store sells is rolled thread; if you want a more-precise part, the "good" threaded rod from machine-supply places is cut & ground} |
#6
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Threading a spoke
On 20-12-2011 10:25, DougC wrote:
It can be difficult to start a die on a shaft and have it stay centered for more than two or three diameters, so you might have to rig up something to hold the spoke and die concentric in use. I'd bet you could do that for a lot less than $3500, and maybe quite a bit less than $200. It would probably not be as quick as those devices however. My first guess is you would need tapping fluid, at least a small vise to hold the spoke in, and some small pieces of brass to use as jaws to avoid marring the spoke. All that's still much less than $200 tho. It is true that spoke machines normally produce rolled threads, and not cut threads--but that is only a matter of expediency. Most threading in metalworking is cut, and I've not ever seen any claims that rolled thread was stronger. {-what I have seen indicates that rolled thread is cheaper and less precise. The cheap all-thread rod that the hardware store sells is rolled thread; if you want a more-precise part, the "good" threaded rod from machine-supply places is cut & ground} a little knowledge is a dangerous thing -- /Marten info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl |
#7
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Threading a spoke
DougC wrote:
On 12/19/2011 9:46 PM, TheCoz wrote: Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? Coz "2.2mm x 56" is a metric-ized conversion of the old English #2-56 size, for which you can find regular dies. Like this one, for $6.39 http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s417.htm ..... It can be difficult to start a die on a shaft and have it stay centered for more than two or three diameters, so you might have to rig up something to hold the spoke and die concentric in use. I'd bet you could do that for a lot less than $3500, and maybe quite a bit less than $200. It would probably not be as quick as those devices however. My first guess is you would need tapping fluid, at least a small vise to hold the spoke in, and some small pieces of brass to use as jaws to avoid marring the spoke. All that's still much less than $200 tho. It is true that spoke machines normally produce rolled threads, and not cut threads--but that is only a matter of expediency. Most threading in metalworking is cut, and I've not ever seen any claims that rolled thread was stronger. If you google "rolled threads stronger" you'll find plenty of claims that rolled threads are stronger. That's largely because they are, especially in fatigue situations. With rolled threads, there's less geometric stress concentration, plus better alignment of grain to stress. We went around and around on this a couple years ago, regarding brake mounting bolts. (Some individuals were claiming that because rolled threads are stronger, no brakes should ever be mounted with cut-thread bolts. In my view, that's too extreme.) -- - Frank Krygowski |
#8
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Threading a spoke
On Dec 20, 5:44*am, Chalo wrote:
TheCoz wrote: Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? The Hozan tool is the one that's most likely to be found in a bike shop or enthusiast's home workshop: http://www.hozan.co.jp/cycle_e/catalog/wheel/C-700.htm It's around $200 last time I checked, though. *The thread rolling dies don't last as long as you'd hope. *And it's incredibly tedious to do a whole wheel's worth. Chalo Have you tried annealing the spokes first, before applying MoS2 to spoke and threading die? |
#9
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Threading a spoke
On Dec 20, 4:12*pm, Frank Krygowski
wrote: DougC wrote: On 12/19/2011 9:46 PM, TheCoz wrote: Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? Coz "2.2mm x 56" is a metric-ized conversion of the old English #2-56 size, for which you can find regular dies. Like this one, for $6.39 http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s417.htm ..... It can be difficult to start a die on a shaft and have it stay centered for more than two or three diameters, so you might have to rig up something to hold the spoke and die concentric in use. I'd bet you could do that for a lot less than $3500, and maybe quite a bit less than $200.. It would probably not be as quick as those devices however. My first guess is you would need tapping fluid, at least a small vise to hold the spoke in, and some small pieces of brass to use as jaws to avoid marring the spoke. All that's still much less than $200 tho. It is true that spoke machines normally produce rolled threads, and not cut threads--but that is only a matter of expediency. Most threading in metalworking is cut, and I've not ever seen any claims that rolled thread was stronger. If you google "rolled threads stronger" you'll find plenty of claims that rolled threads are stronger. *That's largely because they are, especially in fatigue situations. *With rolled threads, there's less geometric stress concentration, plus better alignment of grain to stress. We went around and around on this a couple years ago, regarding brake mounting bolts. *(Some individuals were claiming that because rolled threads are stronger, no brakes should ever be mounted with cut-thread bolts. *In my view, that's too extreme.) -- - Frank Krygowski Rolling of threads is not necessary in spokes. The correct thread form is. The root of the thread shold be of constant radius which minimises the stress concentration. The use of a softer metal for the nipples allows non-perfect threads some conformability to give a proper share of the load through the length of the thread. |
#10
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Threading a spoke
DougC wrote:
On 12/19/2011 9:46 PM, TheCoz wrote: Does any one know where I can find such a tool small enough to put threads on a spoke? Coz "2.2mm x 56" is a metric-ized conversion of the old English #2-56 size, for which you can find regular dies. Like this one, for $6.39 http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s417.htm ..... It can be difficult to start a die on a shaft and have it stay centered for more than two or three diameters, so you might have to rig up something to hold the spoke and die concentric in use. I'd bet you could do that for a lot less than $3500, and maybe quite a bit less than $200. It would probably not be as quick as those devices however. My first guess is you would need tapping fluid, at least a small vise to hold the spoke in, and some small pieces of brass to use as jaws to avoid marring the spoke. All that's still much less than $200 tho. It is true that spoke machines normally produce rolled threads, and not cut threads--but that is only a matter of expediency. Most threading in metalworking is cut, and I've not ever seen any claims that rolled thread was stronger. {-what I have seen indicates that rolled thread is cheaper and less precise. The cheap all-thread rod that the hardware store sells is rolled thread; if you want a more-precise part, the "good" threaded rod from machine-supply places is cut & ground} This is about the inverse process, a tapped hole, but the principal is the same: http://www.ctemag.com/dynamic.articles.php?id=197 -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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