Minnesota Winters

On Dec 18, 8:42*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 17, 4:31*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:





On Dec 17, 2:15*pm, "

wrote:
On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:

On Dec 17, 6:08*am, "

wrote:
On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote:

snip for clarity

On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on
Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. *Should have
used my anti-seize! *Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but
finally got it done.

actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple of
turns, then go drive around the block. *a couple of hard braking episodes
will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels.

God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted
on this forum.

I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear
wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel,
including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and
engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and
then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth. *Then
you kick the wheel in strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or
maybe it was the swearing that did it.

Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires today. *Not
going to win any races on those fatties, but, wow, they really do work
well on ice. *I was getting a little too cocky and almost wiped out.
They are not good on dry pavement, though. *They squirm and float
quite a bit, and the tread is not that straight -- or else it looks
crooked because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros..
That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so beefy that
at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat there.

*It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I guess I will
have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride home.-- Jay Beattie.

.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires. *They
ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. *In loose snow, such as on the
side of the road after the cars have pounded it for awhile, they can
get squirrely. *Ice or dry pavement, great traction. *They are slower
than regular tires. *Partly because I only put 35 psi in them to allow
them to flatten out as much as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in
contact with the ground.

http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...ck/dp/B00113L8....

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stud...asp-Hidequoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on this
bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times the price I
paid for my beater Innovas. *If I lived in Minnesota, I might make the
investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew of ice tires including
the Schwalbe.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...?ss=330&cat=su

I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support
Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay
Beattie.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Twice the price. *But over twice the studs. *240 compared to 110.
Carbide instead of carbon steel. *They are the most expensive bike
tires I've ever bought.- Hide quoted text -

The steel quality is important, although I'll be dead before I wear
these things out with the number of days per year I expect to use
them. I think carbide would be a must have in Minnesota.

What I wonder about and could read-up on (if I were to move to
Minnesota) is tread pattern and stud number. Some of the Nokians have
less studs than my Innovas, and the Schwalbes and other Nokians have
more studs but a less aggressive tread pattern. Peter White explains
some of these design choices and gives reasons for choosing one design
over another -- and a serious purchaser would really have to think
about where, when and how he or she intends to ride.

I would also be curious to find out what tire has the best float in
slush and till, since that is where I have most of my troubles on the
Innovas. Ice is no problem, and on packed snow, I could ride my
regular Hutchinson cross tires. In the till, though, I fish-tail
badly, which is disconcerting with cars passing nearby. -- Jay Beattie.

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 06:08:00 -0800, wrote:

On Dec 17, 7:41Â*am, jim beam wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote:

snip for clarity

On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on
Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Â*Should
have used my anti-seize! Â*Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental
PIA, but finally got it done.

actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a couple
of turns, then go drive around the block. Â*a couple of hard braking
episodes will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels.

God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on
this forum.


translation: "that's the only thing accessible to troglodytes like me".

carry on russell. maybe one day, you'll spot something else sufficiently
obvious and lowbrow to be understandable.

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:52:56 +0000, Clive George wrote:

"Jay Beattie" wrote in message
...
On Dec 17, 6:08 am, "
wrote:
On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote:

snip for clarity

On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on
Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should
have
used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA,
but
finally got it done.

actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a
couple of
turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking
episodes
will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels.

God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on
this forum.

I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel.
I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting
some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone
book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel
over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic
locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did
it.

My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my
car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb
one, smack, wheel off.

smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb
hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage
anything.

In article
,
Jay Beattie wrote:

On Dec 18, 8:42*am, "
wrote:
On Dec 17, 4:31*pm, Jay Beattie wrote:





On Dec 17, 2:15*pm, "

wrote:
On Dec 17, 1:59*pm, Jay Beattie
wrote:

On Dec 17, 6:08*am, "

wrote:
On Dec 17, 7:41*am, jim beam
wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote:

snip for clarity

On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow
wheels on Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to
the iron hubs. *Should have used my anti-seize!
*Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA, but
finally got it done.

actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug
nuts a couple of turns, then go drive around the block.
*a couple of hard braking episodes will break free the
stubbornest of rusted wheels.

God Danged Jim. *Thats the only intelligent thing you've
ever posted on this forum.

I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the
rear wheel. *I had to take additional measures for the rear
wheel, including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim
and hub and engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you
loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel over a
phone book, back and forth. *Then you kick the wheel in
strategic locations. *That finally worked. Or maybe it was
the swearing that did it.

Anyway, I rode to work on my new, cheap-o Innova ice tires
today. *Not going to win any races on those fatties, but,
wow, they really do work well on ice. *I was getting a little
too cocky and almost wiped out. They are not good on dry
pavement, though. *They squirm and float quite a bit, and the
tread is not that straight -- or else it looks crooked
because the tires are slowly blowing off my svelt Open Pros.
That happened when I was blowing one up, but the tube is so
beefy that at 60psi, a 4" section just bulged out and sat
there.

*It's *near white-out looking out my office window, so I
guess I will have plenty of fresh snow and ice for the ride
home.-- Jay Beattie.

.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm using my new Schwalbe Marathon Winter 700x35 studded tires.
*They ride perfectly fine on dry pavement. *In loose snow, such
as on the side of the road after the cars have pounded it for
awhile, they can get squirrely. *Ice or dry pavement, great
traction. *They are slower than regular tires. *Partly because
I only put 35 psi in them to allow them to flatten out as much
as possible and get all 4 rows of studs in contact with the
ground.

http://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marat...-Black/dp/B001
13L8...

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stud...asp-Hidequoted text
-

- Show quoted text -

Those Schwalbe look mighty nice (I have the Schwalbe Blizzards on
this bike for ordinary riding), but they are two to three times
the price I paid for my beater Innovas. *If I lived in Minnesota,
I might make the investment. Bike Tires Direct has a whole slew
of ice tires including the
Schwalbe.http://www.biketiresdirect.com/searc...ts.asp?ss=330&
cat=su

I just felt that in these tough economic times, I should support
Chinese industry. And melamine gives me added grip on ice. -- Jay
Beattie.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Twice the price. *But over twice the studs. *240 compared to 110.
Carbide instead of carbon steel. *They are the most expensive bike
tires I've ever bought.- Hide quoted text -

The steel quality is important, although I'll be dead before I wear
these things out with the number of days per year I expect to use
them. I think carbide would be a must have in Minnesota

There are other options, such as the famed "Gossamer Walrus:"

http://www.velomobiling.com/gallery/...s/IceBike2007/

With video:

http://velomobiling.blogspot.com/200...ce-biking.html

http://www.calhouncycle.com/events/i...01icehome.html

"jim beam" wrote in message
...

actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a
couple of
turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking
episodes
will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels.

God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on
this forum.

I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel.
I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting
some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone
book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel
over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic
locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did
it.

My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my
car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb
one, smack, wheel off.

smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb
hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage
anything.

And what sort of loads + impacts do the bearings get in normal use? What
impacts do they get when you're driving around with loose nuts? You're
raising bogus worries.

In article ,
"Clive George" wrote:

"jim beam" wrote in message
...

actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a
couple of turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of
hard braking episodes will break free the stubbornest of
rusted wheels.

God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever
posted on this forum.

I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear
wheel. I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel,
including putting some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and
engaging in the telephone book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts
and then drive the stuck wheel over a phone book, back and forth.
Then you kick the wheel in strategic locations. That finally
worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did it.

My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from
my car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went
at it. 4lb one, smack, wheel off.

smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a
4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and
not damage anything.

And what sort of loads + impacts do the bearings get in normal use?
What impacts do they get when you're driving around with loose nuts?
You're raising bogus worries.

Not our jim!

"jim beam" wrote:
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 21:52:56 +0000, Clive George wrote:

"Jay Beattie" wrote in message
...
On Dec 17, 6:08 am, "
wrote:
On Dec 17, 7:41 am, jim beam wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:25:07 -0800, Jay Beattie wrote:
snip for clarity
On a somewhat tech note, I went to put on my (car) snow wheels on
Saturday, and my aluminum rims had welded to the iron hubs. Should
have
used my anti-seize! Getting those mo-fos off was a monumental PIA,
but
finally got it done.
actually pretty easy to do this - simply loosen the lug nuts a
couple of
turns, then go drive around the block. a couple of hard braking
episodes
will break free the stubbornest of rusted wheels.
God Danged Jim. Thats the only intelligent thing you've ever posted on
this forum.
I did that, and it worked with the front wheel but not the rear wheel.
I had to take additional measures for the rear wheel, including putting
some Liquid Wrench between the rim and hub and engaging in the telephone
book rhumba -- you loosen the lug nuts and then drive the stuck wheel
over a phone book, back and forth. Then you kick the wheel in strategic
locations. That finally worked. Or maybe it was the swearing that did
it.
My 4lb club hammer was bought specifically to remove a wheel from my
car. I'd tried the 1lb one, no joy, no matter how hard I went at it. 4lb
one, smack, wheel off.

smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb
hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage
anything.

How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer
is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks?

[1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank.

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
LOCAL CACTUS EATS CYCLIST - datakoll

In article ,
Tom Sherman writes:

smack. brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a 4lb
hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and not damage
anything.

How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a hammer
is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks?

[1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a cottered crank.

When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's
something horribly wrong. It usually happens
from the bike shop who doesn't quite have the
exact match of what you require, and gives you
what they consider the next closest thing.
It's an all too common occurance.

Anyways, bearings get ruined by being used
dry of grease/lubricant.

cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

Tom Keats wrote:

smack. Brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a
4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and
not damage anything.

How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a
hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks?

[1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a
cottered crank.

When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's something horribly
wrong. It usually happens from the bike shop who doesn't quite have
the exact match of what you require, and gives you what they
consider the next closest thing. It's an all too common occurrence.

Anyway, bearings get ruined by being used dry of grease/lubricant.

I'd like to hear more about that. Who rides with lubricant free BB
bearings? Besides, no matter how you brace the spindle when pounding
in cotters, the shock reaches the ball or two under the spindle. In
addition, I saw many cranks secured without more than a 1/2 lb hammer
held under the crank, yet no dents in the spindle resulted.

I still have cottered crank spindles lying around that have no sign of
Brinelling although I have a few head sets where both top and bottom
ball bearings as well a roller bearing ones have fretting dimples.

Jobst Brandt

In article ,
writes:
Tom Keats wrote:

smack. Brinelled bearings. specifically unjoyous deployment of a
4lb hammer when the car's own function can serve the purpose, and
not damage anything.

How come bottom bracket bearing do NOT have this problem when a
hammer is used to drive cotter pins in [1] and out on cranks?

[1] No, tightening is NOT done with the nut with attaching a
cottered crank.

When cotter pins have to be pounded in, there's something horribly
wrong. It usually happens from the bike shop who doesn't quite have
the exact match of what you require, and gives you what they
consider the next closest thing. It's an all too common occurrence.

Anyway, bearings get ruined by being used dry of grease/lubricant.

I'd like to hear more about that. Who rides with lubricant free BB
bearings?

A number of Pacific NorthWesters who frequently ride through
deep puddles and torrential rainfalls, and don't maintain their
bikes as well as they should for the prevailing conditions.

Besides, no matter how you brace the spindle when pounding
in cotters, the shock reaches the ball or two under the spindle. In

You shouldn't have to pound them in. If you have to pound
them in, they don't fit. Maybe tap them in a little, sure --
but to ~pound~ them in?! Nay.

addition, I saw many cranks secured without more than a 1/2 lb hammer
held under the crank, yet no dents in the spindle resulted.

Of course. The cotters were being smote with a hammer,
not the spindles. I don't think I've ever seen a
dented spindle. I've seen spindles with badly scoured
cones, though. Because the bearings were run dry of lube.

I still have cottered crank spindles lying around that have no sign of
Brinelling although I have a few head sets where both top and bottom
ball bearings as well a roller bearing ones have fretting dimples.

In these rainy Pacific Northwest climes, the lower headset
bearing gets the brunt of the weather, especially when
unprotected by a front fender. The cup serves to guide
splashed-up water into the bearing, washing the lube out.

And it's a sneaky effect, because as long as the upper headset
bearing is fine, everything can appear to be good.


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca