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Cleaning of chain and all components



 
 
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  #1  
Old July 18th 19, 04:39 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AK[_2_]
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Posts: 226
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.


  #2  
Old July 18th 19, 07:05 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
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Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Wed, 17 Jul 2019 20:39:46 -0700 (PDT), AK
wrote:

I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.

I use a plastic "kitchen container" with a snap on lid. Wipe the
obvious dirt off the chain with a rag, coil up and put in the
container, pour paint thinner - mineral spirits or white spirit -
(depending on whether you are east or west) to cover and let it sit a
few hours, or overnight. It helps to shake the container - with the
lid on - occasionally. The thinner will become discolored with dirt.
Pour out the old thinner wipe obvious dirt off the chain and do it
again... until the thinner does not discolor.
Than apply the chain lube of your choice to the clean chain.

I use a wax lubricant which does not attract dirt as much as the
oil/grease based lubricants and in my case the whole exercise takes a
few minutes at the end of the day and a few minutes in the morning and
I have a clean chain.

It is probably also a good idea the clean the crud off the sprockets
too. Although I have to admit that I seldom do unless I'm washing the
bike.
--
cheers,

John B.

  #3  
Old July 18th 19, 07:48 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,153
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix.

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.

--
JS
  #4  
Old July 18th 19, 03:13 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 7,511
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 2:49:02 AM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix.

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.


I agree in general with James' ideas. In my experience, wax with a small amount
(maybe 5%) oil mixed into it is the best lubricant.

I don't melt candles. I bought paraffin wax (as used for canning jelly at home)
in the grocery store. One pound costs maybe two dollars and lasts the rest of
your life. You can leave the remainder to your grandchildren. Melt it very
carefully (it's flammable) and blend in a bit of oil or gear lube. Let it
solidify and save it.

My most unusual technique is to not remove the chain from the bike. Instead,
with the bike on a workstand and with sheet metal protecting the frame and tire,
I use a low-flame torch to warm 10" of chain, crayon on the wax-oil mix, then
reheat until the wax crumbs melt and flow into the chain. Backpedal to access
the next 10" of chain and repeat. When the whole chain is done, wipe off the
excess with paper towels.

For me, this is easier than the hot pot method; but either way works.

It's very likely that one poster here will jump in and say "Never use paraffin
to lubricate a chain!" and post decades old statements from others claiming it's
not effective. He will pointedly ignore results of tests that prove this is both
the lowest friction lube, and the one that makes chains last longest. It also
keeps your bike far cleaner than any liquid lubricant.

But to be clear, if you choose instead to keep using other liquid lubricants,
you're welcome to do that.

- Frank Krygowski
  #5  
Old July 18th 19, 11:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:13:01 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 2:49:02 AM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix.

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.


I agree in general with James' ideas. In my experience, wax with a small amount
(maybe 5%) oil mixed into it is the best lubricant.

I don't melt candles. I bought paraffin wax (as used for canning jelly at home)
in the grocery store. One pound costs maybe two dollars and lasts the rest of
your life. You can leave the remainder to your grandchildren. Melt it very
carefully (it's flammable) and blend in a bit of oil or gear lube. Let it
solidify and save it.

My most unusual technique is to not remove the chain from the bike. Instead,
with the bike on a workstand and with sheet metal protecting the frame and tire,
I use a low-flame torch to warm 10" of chain, crayon on the wax-oil mix, then
reheat until the wax crumbs melt and flow into the chain. Backpedal to access
the next 10" of chain and repeat. When the whole chain is done, wipe off the
excess with paper towels.

For me, this is easier than the hot pot method; but either way works.

It's very likely that one poster here will jump in and say "Never use paraffin
to lubricate a chain!" and post decades old statements from others claiming it's
not effective. He will pointedly ignore results of tests that prove this is both
the lowest friction lube, and the one that makes chains last longest. It also
keeps your bike far cleaner than any liquid lubricant.

But to be clear, if you choose instead to keep using other liquid lubricants,
you're welcome to do that.

- Frank Krygowski


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my experience,
has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the rain.
--
cheers,

John B.

  #6  
Old July 19th 19, 12:02 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 3:32:37 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:13:01 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 2:49:02 AM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix..

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.


I agree in general with James' ideas. In my experience, wax with a small amount
(maybe 5%) oil mixed into it is the best lubricant.

I don't melt candles. I bought paraffin wax (as used for canning jelly at home)
in the grocery store. One pound costs maybe two dollars and lasts the rest of
your life. You can leave the remainder to your grandchildren. Melt it very
carefully (it's flammable) and blend in a bit of oil or gear lube. Let it
solidify and save it.

My most unusual technique is to not remove the chain from the bike. Instead,
with the bike on a workstand and with sheet metal protecting the frame and tire,
I use a low-flame torch to warm 10" of chain, crayon on the wax-oil mix, then
reheat until the wax crumbs melt and flow into the chain. Backpedal to access
the next 10" of chain and repeat. When the whole chain is done, wipe off the
excess with paper towels.

For me, this is easier than the hot pot method; but either way works.

It's very likely that one poster here will jump in and say "Never use paraffin
to lubricate a chain!" and post decades old statements from others claiming it's
not effective. He will pointedly ignore results of tests that prove this is both
the lowest friction lube, and the one that makes chains last longest. It also
keeps your bike far cleaner than any liquid lubricant.

But to be clear, if you choose instead to keep using other liquid lubricants,
you're welcome to do that.

- Frank Krygowski


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my experience,
has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the rain.


Meh. Everything washes off in the rain. It's just a matter of time. Parffin flakes off and doesn't give you an corrosion protection. I just use the Lou method -- rise, lather repeat. I'm not going to be hanging out in the garage melting wax, particularly since most of my chains have single-use quick-links.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #7  
Old July 19th 19, 12:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,153
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On 19/7/19 9:02 am, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 3:32:37 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my
experience, has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the
rain.


Meh. Everything washes off in the rain. It's just a matter of time.
Parffin flakes off and doesn't give you an corrosion protection. I
just use the Lou method -- rise, lather repeat. I'm not going to be
hanging out in the garage melting wax, particularly since most of my
chains have single-use quick-links.


For neat paraffin wax, I agree and it was my experience that the chain
would rust after a wet ride. So I added oil to the wax. The result is
good corrosion resistance and a relatively clean and smooth running chain.



--
JS
  #8  
Old July 19th 19, 06:15 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tom Kunich[_5_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,231
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 4:02:18 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 3:32:37 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:13:01 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 2:49:02 AM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix.

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.

I agree in general with James' ideas. In my experience, wax with a small amount
(maybe 5%) oil mixed into it is the best lubricant.

I don't melt candles. I bought paraffin wax (as used for canning jelly at home)
in the grocery store. One pound costs maybe two dollars and lasts the rest of
your life. You can leave the remainder to your grandchildren. Melt it very
carefully (it's flammable) and blend in a bit of oil or gear lube. Let it
solidify and save it.

My most unusual technique is to not remove the chain from the bike. Instead,
with the bike on a workstand and with sheet metal protecting the frame and tire,
I use a low-flame torch to warm 10" of chain, crayon on the wax-oil mix, then
reheat until the wax crumbs melt and flow into the chain. Backpedal to access
the next 10" of chain and repeat. When the whole chain is done, wipe off the
excess with paper towels.

For me, this is easier than the hot pot method; but either way works.

It's very likely that one poster here will jump in and say "Never use paraffin
to lubricate a chain!" and post decades old statements from others claiming it's
not effective. He will pointedly ignore results of tests that prove this is both
the lowest friction lube, and the one that makes chains last longest. It also
keeps your bike far cleaner than any liquid lubricant.

But to be clear, if you choose instead to keep using other liquid lubricants,
you're welcome to do that.

- Frank Krygowski


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my experience,
has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the rain.


Meh. Everything washes off in the rain. It's just a matter of time. Parffin flakes off and doesn't give you an corrosion protection. I just use the Lou method -- rise, lather repeat. I'm not going to be hanging out in the garage melting wax, particularly since most of my chains have single-use quick-links.

-- Jay Beattie.


That has been my experience as well. I stick to "wax" lube products such as Snow Wax.
  #9  
Old July 18th 19, 05:04 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 29
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 11:39:48 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.


The waxing suggestions are all good. It comes down to a matter of how much time and money you want to spend. If you want to keep everything clean and as long-lasting as possible, waxing works, as do other commercially available 'dry' lubricants, and is the cheapest option (as Frank points out), but takes the most amount of time. If you have no problem replacing your chain/cogs much more frequently, simply spraying with a chain lube then wiping off the excess works just fine, just remember you'll probably get less than half the life you do than using the methods below.
  #10  
Old July 18th 19, 05:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tosspot[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,563
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On 18/07/2019 18:04, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 17, 2019 at 11:39:48 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in
contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner 2. Paint thinner 3. Used toothbrush 4. Occasional
foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do
not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks, Andy

It always too soon to quit.


The waxing suggestions are all good. It comes down to a matter of how
much time and money you want to spend. If you want to keep everything
clean and as long-lasting as possible, waxing works, as do other
commercially available 'dry' lubricants, and is the cheapest option
(as Frank points out), but takes the most amount of time. If you have
no problem replacing your chain/cogs much more frequently, simply
spraying with a chain lube then wiping off the excess works just
fine, just remember you'll probably get less than half the life you
do than using the methods below.


I have to say, that in my days of using wax, I found the finish line wax
very good ~ 5USD/bottle, which will last a couple of years. You *don't*
want a spray can it gets everywhere

These days I just use light machine oil every month.
 




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