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Cleaning of chain and all components



 
 
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  #41  
Old July 20th 19, 02:42 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 17:43:21 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:54:57 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:06:15 -0400, Duane
wrote:

On 18/07/2019 2:25 p.m., AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 1:02:13 PM UTC-5, Bertrand wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize
the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


I wipe down the chain and derailleur pulleys after each ride, just back-pedaling
the chain through a rag. Only takes a few seconds, and keeps crud from building up.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I forgot to mention that I USED to use oil and Amzoil Synthetic Grease on my chain.

Andy

Grease?


That is what Shimano puts on the chain before they sell to you :-)
--
cheers,

John B.


And which I remove before using the chain as that sticky substance REALLY holds the fine grit. It does make a fantastic grinding compound though.

Cheers


Although the indomitable Sheldon states, or more factually John "Chain
Male" Allen states on Sheldon's site that:

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has
been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has
been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain...

This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the
fact...

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this
superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several
hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty
conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain
until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will
dilute the factory lube.
--
cheers,

John B.

Ads
  #42  
Old July 20th 19, 06:20 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 9:43:01 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 17:43:21 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:54:57 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:06:15 -0400, Duane
wrote:

On 18/07/2019 2:25 p.m., AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 1:02:13 PM UTC-5, Bertrand wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize
the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


I wipe down the chain and derailleur pulleys after each ride, just back-pedaling
the chain through a rag. Only takes a few seconds, and keeps crud from building up.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I forgot to mention that I USED to use oil and Amzoil Synthetic Grease on my chain.

Andy

Grease?

That is what Shimano puts on the chain before they sell to you :-)
--
cheers,

John B.


And which I remove before using the chain as that sticky substance REALLY holds the fine grit. It does make a fantastic grinding compound though.

Cheers


Although the indomitable Sheldon states, or more factually John "Chain
Male" Allen states on Sheldon's site that:

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has
been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has
been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain...

This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the
fact...

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this
superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several
hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty
conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain
until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will
dilute the factory lube.
--
cheers,

John B.


I use a degreaser or mineral spirits on a rag to remove the factory stickum from the OUTSIDE of the chain only. I guess I forgot to mention I only remove the factory stickum from the outside of the chain.

Around here there is often n ultra-fine black dust that permeates everything. Recently I opened up a small fleece packet that I had in my seat bag and discovered the contents of that inner bag to be covered in that ultra-fine black dust. I also ride where there is a lot of sand/grit washed onto the roads. That stuff all sticks most wonderfully to the stickum that Shimano puts onto new chains thereby turning the stickum into a superb grinding compound

Cheers
  #43  
Old July 20th 19, 06:55 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 22:20:59 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 9:43:01 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 17:43:21 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:54:57 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:06:15 -0400, Duane
wrote:

On 18/07/2019 2:25 p.m., AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 1:02:13 PM UTC-5, Bertrand wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize
the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


I wipe down the chain and derailleur pulleys after each ride, just back-pedaling
the chain through a rag. Only takes a few seconds, and keeps crud from building up.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I forgot to mention that I USED to use oil and Amzoil Synthetic Grease on my chain.

Andy

Grease?

That is what Shimano puts on the chain before they sell to you :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

And which I remove before using the chain as that sticky substance REALLY holds the fine grit. It does make a fantastic grinding compound though.

Cheers


Although the indomitable Sheldon states, or more factually John "Chain
Male" Allen states on Sheldon's site that:

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has
been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has
been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain...

This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the
fact...

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this
superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several
hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty
conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain
until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will
dilute the factory lube.
--
cheers,

John B.


I use a degreaser or mineral spirits on a rag to remove the factory stickum from the OUTSIDE of the chain only. I guess I forgot to mention I only remove the factory stickum from the outside of the chain.


Actually I used to use something very like what Shimano apparently
uses, which I am certain has anti-corrosive properties. In fact I
suspect that may be the real reason that they use it.

A number of companies make what they usually refer to as anti
corrosion lubricant, or some similar name, which is essentially a
grease dissolved in a very volatile solvent as a carrier. You spray on
this very liquid mixture that seeps into cracks almost like water and
then the carrier solvent evaporates leaving the grease.

And as a lubricant it worked like a champ... but it is sticky grease
and it attracts practically every speck of dirt in the surrounding
territories. I'd set off on a 3, 4 hour ride with a clean chain and by
the time I got back the chain needed cleaning again. So I switched to
my wax mixture and have never looked back.

Around here there is often n ultra-fine black dust that permeates everything. Recently I opened up a small fleece packet that I had in my seat bag and discovered the contents of that inner bag to be covered in that ultra-fine black dust. I also ride where there is a lot of sand/grit washed onto the roads. That stuff all sticks most wonderfully to the stickum that Shimano puts onto new chains thereby turning the stickum into a superb grinding compound

Cheers

--
cheers,

John B.

  #44  
Old July 20th 19, 08:04 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Radey Shouman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,747
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

John B. writes:

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 10:04:36 -0400, Radey Shouman
wrote:

Frank Krygowski writes:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 9:09:12 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:


I do something similar. When I initially decided to go with the wax
lube I went to a "candle store" where they sell mainly candles for
church or temple affairs but also sell wax and candle wicks and so on
for those that want to do it themselves. Anyway, they had both
paraffin and bee's wax so I bought the paraffin and a little bee's wax
(it is bloody expensive ) thinking that the bee's wax would make the
paraffin a bit more flexible, it didn't, or I didn't use enough, so I
added some light viscosity synthetic grease and that has worked real
well.

I don't start out on a ride if it is raining but I've been caught a
number of times in some pretty good showers and as far as I can see it
has never washed the wax airway and I've never seen a spot of rust on
the chain.... but to be honest I never saw any rust when I was using
spray lube on the chain either :-)

+1 except my bees' wax is still unused. I bought it on a whim and haven't used
it for anything.


Bees' wax melts at a considerably higher temperature than paraffin wax,
not an advantage for chain wax (or kink). It also burns cleaner and
smells nicer when burning, not an advantage either. It's better for
waxing thread than paraffin, which is why I have some.


According to the Wikki paraffin wax melts at 115 - 154 Degrees (F)
while bee's wax melts at 145 - 147 degrees (F) :-)


If you're buying by the carload I don't doubt you can get paraffin wax
in a wide range of melting points. The primary users of canning
paraffin expect it to melt easily in a double boiler.

I suggest that the waxing of thread using bees wax is "normal" simply
because it has been used for hundreds of years while paraffin wax was
"discovered" less than 200 years ago.

I might add that I have used paraffin wax to wax thread when sewing
sails and it worked perfectly well although it does seem to make the
thread stiffer but still very usable although my feeling is that bee's
wax is perhaps the better solution.

Although, of course the reason to wax thread is because it acts as a
lubricant to allow sewing heavier cloth easier.


Sort of like linseed oil spoke prep, wax on thread may initially
lubricate but eventually it helps to stick everything together, making
stitches and knots more secure, and seams a bit closer to water tight.
It also makes the thread stiffer and easier to work with. Paraffin wax
does not seem to me to have the stickiness of bees wax.

  #45  
Old July 20th 19, 11:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,422
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Saturday, July 20, 2019 at 2:43:01 AM UTC+1, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 17:43:21 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 6:54:57 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:06:15 -0400, Duane
wrote:

On 18/07/2019 2:25 p.m., AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 1:02:13 PM UTC-5, Bertrand wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize
the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


I wipe down the chain and derailleur pulleys after each ride, just back-pedaling
the chain through a rag. Only takes a few seconds, and keeps crud from building up.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I forgot to mention that I USED to use oil and Amzoil Synthetic Grease on my chain.

Andy

Grease?

That is what Shimano puts on the chain before they sell to you :-)
--
cheers,

John B.


And which I remove before using the chain as that sticky substance REALLY holds the fine grit. It does make a fantastic grinding compound though.

Cheers


Although the indomitable Sheldon states, or more factually John "Chain
Male" Allen states on Sheldon's site that:

New chains come pre-lubricated with a grease-type lubricant which has
been installed at the factory. This is an excellent lubricant, and has
been made to permeate all of the internal interstices in the chain...

This factory lube is superior to any lube that you can apply after the
fact...

Some people make the bad mistake of deliberately removing this
superior lubricant. Don't do this!

The factory lubricant all by itself is usually good for several
hundred miles of service if the bike is not ridden in wet or dusty
conditions. It is best not to apply any sort of lube to a new chain
until it is clearly needed, because any wet lube you can apply will
dilute the factory lube.
--
cheers,

John B.


Sheldon himself said that he expected factory lube to last about 700 miles. Chains on my bikes run for their entire life on the factory lube, no extra oil, grease or wax added, no other service performed, no cleaning, no nothing. I get three times to 4.5 times the chain mileage I managed when I fussed with with wax, oil, cleaning equipment, etc. I think cleaning your chain is a retrograde step, a throwback to when cycling was the transport and pastime off the poor, and an expression of the wretched cultural cringe that middle class cyclists have brought forward from those days, best summed up in the roadie attitude that a real cyclist suffers for his dedication to bicycles. I particularly like the KMC factory grease, which thins out over time and with wear to a thickish oil-like substance that looks very much like Phil's green jelly (super stuff!) that I pack into the Rohloff's external clickbox when once a year I change its oil.

Andre Jute
The hedonist's cutting edge, no muss, no fuss. One day all cyclists will ride as I do.
  #46  
Old July 20th 19, 11:47 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,422
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 9:03:47 AM UTC+1, Tom Evans wrote:
On 18/07/2019 22:32, Andre Jute wrote:

3. Ride the bike. Do nothing else. Do no service whatsoever.

I do pretty much the same, on an 8 speed dérailleur. Never oil, replace
regularly.

I use a cheap chain and buy 10 or so at a time when they are cheap,
currently I have KMC Z8s.

I never got elongation checking to work, by the time the chain looked
elongated the cassette was skipping with a new chain. So I replace the
chain somewhere between 1000km-1500km, which seems to preserve the cassette.

A couple of points. It doesn't work well if you have regular rain. It
also doesn't work well with dérailleurs 8 speed, they need to be oiled
for clean shifting.


I use hub gearboxes and the chain is fully and very effectively enclosed in a Chainglider; if you're interested, see http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=6813.0 where I explain how I upped my mileage per chain to roughly 0.5% elongation, at which point I fit a new chain, from about a 1000m to near enough 3000m (4506km is the target, from the original experiment described at the link above).

Andre Jute
Focus group
  #47  
Old July 20th 19, 11:56 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,422
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 9:03:47 AM UTC+1, Tom Evans wrote:
On 18/07/2019 22:32, Andre Jute wrote:

3. Ride the bike. Do nothing else. Do no service whatsoever.

I do pretty much the same, on an 8 speed dérailleur. Never oil, replace
regularly.

I use a cheap chain and buy 10 or so at a time when they are cheap,
currently I have KMC Z8s.

I never got elongation checking to work,


In the first article in the thread I've already referenced
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=6813.0
there's a photograph showing why the standard chain wear gauge doesn't work, and how to make a reasonable estimate for the partial wear if you throw your chains out "early" to preserve gear-wheals.

Nothing further in this post from me, but I leave the rest of the exchange for content.

Andre Jute
Running chains to the limit isn't an economy, it just kills more expensive components

by the time the chain looked
elongated the cassette was skipping with a new chain. So I replace the
chain somewhere between 1000km-1500km, which seems to preserve the cassette.

A couple of points. It doesn't work well if you have regular rain. It
also doesn't work well with dérailleurs 8 speed, they need to be oiled
for clean shifting.

  #48  
Old July 21st 19, 12:06 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Sat, 20 Jul 2019 15:04:24 -0400, Radey Shouman
wrote:

John B. writes:

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 10:04:36 -0400, Radey Shouman
wrote:

Frank Krygowski writes:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 9:09:12 PM UTC-4, John B. wrote:


I do something similar. When I initially decided to go with the wax
lube I went to a "candle store" where they sell mainly candles for
church or temple affairs but also sell wax and candle wicks and so on
for those that want to do it themselves. Anyway, they had both
paraffin and bee's wax so I bought the paraffin and a little bee's wax
(it is bloody expensive ) thinking that the bee's wax would make the
paraffin a bit more flexible, it didn't, or I didn't use enough, so I
added some light viscosity synthetic grease and that has worked real
well.

I don't start out on a ride if it is raining but I've been caught a
number of times in some pretty good showers and as far as I can see it
has never washed the wax airway and I've never seen a spot of rust on
the chain.... but to be honest I never saw any rust when I was using
spray lube on the chain either :-)

+1 except my bees' wax is still unused. I bought it on a whim and haven't used
it for anything.

Bees' wax melts at a considerably higher temperature than paraffin wax,
not an advantage for chain wax (or kink). It also burns cleaner and
smells nicer when burning, not an advantage either. It's better for
waxing thread than paraffin, which is why I have some.


According to the Wikki paraffin wax melts at 115 - 154 Degrees (F)
while bee's wax melts at 145 - 147 degrees (F) :-)


If you're buying by the carload I don't doubt you can get paraffin wax
in a wide range of melting points. The primary users of canning
paraffin expect it to melt easily in a double boiler.

But 115 - 145 degrees (F) is well within the range of a double boiler
At least I am assured by the Internet that using a double boiler one
can achieve temperatures in the 226 degree (F) range.

I suggest that the waxing of thread using bees wax is "normal" simply
because it has been used for hundreds of years while paraffin wax was
"discovered" less than 200 years ago.

I might add that I have used paraffin wax to wax thread when sewing
sails and it worked perfectly well although it does seem to make the
thread stiffer but still very usable although my feeling is that bee's
wax is perhaps the better solution.

Although, of course the reason to wax thread is because it acts as a
lubricant to allow sewing heavier cloth easier.


Sort of like linseed oil spoke prep, wax on thread may initially
lubricate but eventually it helps to stick everything together, making
stitches and knots more secure, and seams a bit closer to water tight.
It also makes the thread stiffer and easier to work with. Paraffin wax
does not seem to me to have the stickiness of bees wax.


I can't comment as the only had sewing I've done was on sails - roping
and such - and I seriously doubt that the wax used had any long
lasting stickiness after being exposed to wind and water for even a
week and certainly not after a month.

And even commercial sail making shops don't use waxed thread for
machine sewing.
--
cheers,

John B.

  #49  
Old July 21st 19, 01:45 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 11:17:25 AM UTC-7, duane wrote:
On 19/07/2019 1:42 p.m., Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 11:08:53 AM UTC+1, Duane wrote:
AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:54:16 PM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 13:11:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:39:48 AM UTC+2, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not
realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.

If you ride a 15 dollar chain and a 30 dolar cassette and you are not a
bike nerd like some of us don't do that again. Wipe your chain as clean
as possible with a rag before lubing. Lube regularly with whatever oily
stuff and ride the **** out of your chain until some gears starts to
skip. Then replace the chain and cassette. If you ride a 45 dollar
chain and a 200 dollar cassette pay attention to some of the advice you get.


Lou, my 2 cents.

If you aren't a "bike nerd" take the bike to the shop and let somebody
else do it :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

Yeah right.

Pay him $25/hr X 3.5.

Andy


I use a Park chain cleaner tool. Clip on, fill with degreaser, run 30-40
crank strokes, change degreaser and repeat. Take a brush and clean the
cassette and cage with degreaser. Takes 10-15 minutes. Maybe 20 with a
beer in one hand. When dry lube the chain, run through the gears and wipe
off the chain.


The trick is to oil the chain sparingly between cleaning, wiping it before
to remove grit and after to remove excess oil. Takes another 5 minutes
and makes the cleaning a lot easier. Most people use too much oil and it
attracts grit.

I never tried wax but the people here recommending it sound like they know
what they’re talking about.

--
duane


You could just buy wax in a bottle, Duane, instead of messing around with a cooker. I used Finish Line white wax, from a bottle, for a year or two, and it works. Another poster mentioned that he still has half a bottle of Finish Line white wax left, and so do it; it's economical stuff.

Don't park your bike on your wife's carpets while you're using it though: it drops little gray balls of mixed wax and gunge wherever you ride or wheel the bike.

Andre Jute
Clean hands


I have a friend that uses the finish line white wax. Seems to work for
her. I've been using the finish line dry lube for ages and haven't seen
a reason to change.

Maybe if I did the mileage that James does or rode in the conditions
that Jay does I'd have to reconsider.


You mean riding in gorgeous sunshine? Listening to the Mid-Westerners complain about the heat, I feel guilty. Nice spin through the countryside today with a ferry ride.
https://bikeportland.org/wp-content/...65a1037e_o.jpg Probably 80F. I got to the ferry, and it was pulling out. The operator saw me and stopped, backed up, dropped the gate and let me on. It was great. There were a couple other racer-dudes on the ferry with really nice equipment, except for one of them had an MP3 player and was blaring Grateful Dead. I let them get down the road a ways. Why must people blare music?


Anyway, I decided to give the Trek a nice cleaning on the washstand. My favorite modern invention are Costco exam gloves so I can use my finger as a goop lathe on the pulley wheels and chainrings. I use the Park brush and scraper on the cassettes and a stiff bristle parts brush on the chain with Simple Green and hose spray. I flush it with WD40 and rag dry before adding lubricant which is pedestrian TriFlo because I have a bunch of it. I got my washstand on supersale at Western. https://static.westernbikeworks.com/...0/ffspr2-1.jpg You can spin the bike around which is convenient.

Speaking of, maintenance of non-bike things is important too, like sticky fold-out legs on washstands. I also check my clown pump to make sure it is not seized or has a bad gasket or needs lube.


-- Jay Beattie.

  #50  
Old July 21st 19, 02:04 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Duane[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,546
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 11:17:25 AM UTC-7, duane wrote:
On 19/07/2019 1:42 p.m., Andre Jute wrote:
On Friday, July 19, 2019 at 11:08:53 AM UTC+1, Duane wrote:
AK wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:54:16 PM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 13:11:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:39:48 AM UTC+2, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not
realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.

If you ride a 15 dollar chain and a 30 dolar cassette and you are not a
bike nerd like some of us don't do that again. Wipe your chain as clean
as possible with a rag before lubing. Lube regularly with whatever oily
stuff and ride the **** out of your chain until some gears starts to
skip. Then replace the chain and cassette. If you ride a 45 dollar
chain and a 200 dollar cassette pay attention to some of the advice you get.


Lou, my 2 cents.

If you aren't a "bike nerd" take the bike to the shop and let somebody
else do it :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

Yeah right.

Pay him $25/hr X 3.5.

Andy


I use a Park chain cleaner tool. Clip on, fill with degreaser, run 30-40
crank strokes, change degreaser and repeat. Take a brush and clean the
cassette and cage with degreaser. Takes 10-15 minutes. Maybe 20 with a
beer in one hand. When dry lube the chain, run through the gears and wipe
off the chain.


The trick is to oil the chain sparingly between cleaning, wiping it before
to remove grit and after to remove excess oil. Takes another 5 minutes
and makes the cleaning a lot easier. Most people use too much oil and it
attracts grit.

I never tried wax but the people here recommending it sound like they know
what they’re talking about.

--
duane

You could just buy wax in a bottle, Duane, instead of messing around
with a cooker. I used Finish Line white wax, from a bottle, for a year
or two, and it works. Another poster mentioned that he still has half a
bottle of Finish Line white wax left, and so do it; it's economical stuff.

Don't park your bike on your wife's carpets while you're using it
though: it drops little gray balls of mixed wax and gunge wherever you
ride or wheel the bike.

Andre Jute
Clean hands


I have a friend that uses the finish line white wax. Seems to work for
her. I've been using the finish line dry lube for ages and haven't seen
a reason to change.

Maybe if I did the mileage that James does or rode in the conditions
that Jay does I'd have to reconsider.


You mean riding in gorgeous sunshine? Listening to the Mid-Westerners
complain about the heat, I feel guilty. Nice spin through the
countryside today with a ferry ride.
https://bikeportland.org/wp-content/...65a1037e_o.jpg Probably
80F. I got to the ferry, and it was pulling out. The operator saw me and
stopped, backed up, dropped the gate and let me on. It was great. There
were a couple other racer-dudes on the ferry with really nice equipment,
except for one of them had an MP3 player and was blaring Grateful Dead. I
let them get down the road a ways. Why must people blare music?




32c here today with a humidex over 40. But oddly enough the 35km/h winds
must have had an evaporative effect because it wasn’t awful. Nasty
thunderstorms lurking though.


Anyway, I decided to give the Trek a nice cleaning on the washstand. My
favorite modern invention are Costco exam gloves so I can use my finger
as a goop lathe on the pulley wheels and chainrings. I use the Park
brush and scraper on the cassettes and a stiff bristle parts brush on the
chain with Simple Green and hose spray. I flush it with WD40 and rag dry
before adding lubricant which is pedestrian TriFlo because I have a bunch
of it. I got my washstand on supersale at Western.
https://static.westernbikeworks.com/...0/ffspr2-1.jpg
You can spin the bike around which is convenient.

Speaking of, maintenance of non-bike things is important too, like sticky
fold-out legs on washstands. I also check my clown pump to make sure it
is not seized or has a bad gasket or needs lube.


Had my co2 adapter blow out the o ring trying to fill a friend’s tire. I’m
supposed to lube that a bit occasionally but I haven’t had a flat in 2
years so out of sight out of mind.

-- Jay Beattie.





--
duane
 




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