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Wheels for a clydesdale
Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden
1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. So now I'm looking around. He said that a bigger spoke (currently has 15g) and a better rim like an open pro would fix it. He said the way mavic welded the open 4s caused them to be very weak at the weld. On the ride after the rebuild it did go out of true at the weld, so that lends some credence. I'm eternally on a budget, so I need suggestions. Are the paired spoke wheels and such any good for a clydesdale like me, or do I need to stick with a 32 spoke (or even a 36 on the rear). The front wheel of course has been perfect, just my weight on the rear... I am thinking about the Open Pros/Ultegra 32 hole from JensonUSA for $195+ship. Anyway, thanks for any suggestions... Brian |
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#2
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Wheels for a clydesdale
"Lowell Nelson" wrote:
Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden 1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. So now I'm looking around. He said that a bigger spoke (currently has 15g) and a better rim like an open pro would fix it. He said the way mavic welded the open 4s caused them to be very weak at the weld. On the ride after the rebuild it did go out of true at the weld, so that lends some credence. I'm eternally on a budget, so I need suggestions. Are the paired spoke wheels and such any good for a clydesdale like me, or do I need to stick with a 32 spoke (or even a 36 on the rear). The front wheel of course has been perfect, just my weight on the rear... I am thinking about the Open Pros/Ultegra 32 hole from JensonUSA for $195+ship. Unless the rims are bent, the bike shop guy is jerking your chain. I used to ride Open 4 CD rims on my TANDEM. Yeah, they were 36 spokes, but that's still a LOT more stress than even you can put on a set of wheels. And no, they didn't go out of true every time I rode the bike. The weld is certainly NOT moving, flexing or otherwise misbehaving. You'd know without a doubt if it was. In fact, I think the Open 4's were pinned (which also works fine). There's no reason those wheels can't be built reliably, even for a guy your size. Sure, if I were starting with a clean sheet of paper, I'd recommend 36 14-15 butted spokes, but if the wheel (as it's currently built) is tensioned and stress relieved properly, it won't go out of true (unless you bend the rim). Mark Hickey Habanero Cycles http://www.habcycles.com Home of the $695 ti frame |
#3
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Wheels for a clydesdale
On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 11:03:48 -0600, "Lowell Nelson"
wrote: Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden 1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. Find a new shop. I was 250+ when I started road riding and promptly trashed improperly built wheels. 32 spoke wheels, with double butted spokes and brass nipples, _properly tensioned_, will last. I now build my rear wheels following Jobst's book with 36 spokes, but I have 32 spoke wheels that work for me. I can't believe the owner of the shop who rebuilt the wheel "laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up". A _good_ shop can set you up with wheels that will last. Barry |
#4
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Wheels for a clydesdale
In article ,
Lowell Nelson wrote: Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden 1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. I think he's right although with a better rim you could probably get by with 32 spokes, I just wouldn't recommend it. So now I'm looking around. He said that a bigger spoke (currently has 15g) and a better rim like an open pro would fix it. He said the way mavic welded the open 4s caused them to be very weak at the weld. On the ride after the rebuild it did go out of true at the weld, so that lends some credence. I don't know if his story is true but the Open Pro is a better rim than the Open 4CD in my experience (but still perhaps not the best choice for you). I'm eternally on a budget, so I need suggestions. Are the paired spoke wheels and such any good for a clydesdale like me, or do I need to stick with a 32 spoke (or even a 36 on the rear). The front wheel of course has been perfect, just my weight on the rear... I am thinking about the Open Pros/Ultegra 32 hole from JensonUSA for $195+ship. Anyway, thanks for any suggestions... If you're on a budget, keep your front wheel and buy a stronger rear one. I think you're a candidate for 36 spokes so I don't recommend trying to rebuild the rear or buy the wheels you mentioned from JensonUSA. I suggest you get a hand built wheel from someone who knows what they're doing. For one thing, they can tell you the strongest wheel they can build for you, ask their opinion. But in general I would say use 36 14/15ga butted spokes, brass nipples, pick a stout rim such as a CXP-33, Velocity Deep-V, or even an Open Pro with 36 spokes would do OK if built well. --Paul |
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Wheels for a clydesdale
"Peter Cole" wrote in message . net...
"Lowell Nelson" wrote in message ... Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden 1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. Most wheels go out of true because they're insufficiently tensioned. Before throwing in the towel (& the wheels), I'd stress relieve, tension, & true them. Most factory-built wheels come under-tensioned, which is a problem, especially for big riders (I'm 6'10, 235). I am not quite as tall as you guys but I compete in Clydesdale for mountain biking. 5'11" 220lbs. I do ride lots of road and I had the same concerns about my wheels. I would take Lowell's suggestions first because I had loads of "pinging" when I put on my new wheel set this spring. I would also consider the lacing pattern that is used. I have a radial on the left and cross 2 on the cog side. With a 32 hole you could go cross 3 on both sides and you'll get good lateral strength. Just a thought. One more quick note. To stress relieve any wheels I have built, I use a rubber mallet and really give the spokes a good wack at the hub flange to make sure they "set" themselves and then use the handle between the spokes and give them a good pry to help release any "pings" and twists. Andy |
#6
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Wheels for a clydesdale
On a normal road ride, assuming no great bumps etc., any good wheel should serve
you well. I do not know what your shop is doing wrong, but can tell you that when I weighed 280, I rode many miles on 36 spoke 14g wheels that were factory original (and nothing special) on my Mongoose . No Problems. If I were you I would get a truing stand, learn to tension a wheel, and find another LBS. My 0.02. Good luck Ernie Lowell Nelson wrote: Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden 1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. So now I'm looking around. He said that a bigger spoke (currently has 15g) and a better rim like an open pro would fix it. He said the way mavic welded the open 4s caused them to be very weak at the weld. On the ride after the rebuild it did go out of true at the weld, so that lends some credence. I'm eternally on a budget, so I need suggestions. Are the paired spoke wheels and such any good for a clydesdale like me, or do I need to stick with a 32 spoke (or even a 36 on the rear). The front wheel of course has been perfect, just my weight on the rear... I am thinking about the Open Pros/Ultegra 32 hole from JensonUSA for $195+ship. Anyway, thanks for any suggestions... Brian |
#7
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Wheels for a clydesdale
Lowell Nelson wrote:
My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. I'd second the reccomendation of the VeloCity Deep V. The nice thing about deep sectioned rims is that you can tension them up to your heart's content without fear of a wheel collapse. They are available in a 32 hole version. --- |
#8
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Wheels for a clydesdale
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 02:25:31 GMT, Boyd Speerschneider
wrote: "Lowell Nelson" wrote in : Currently riding Open 4 cd wheels 32 hole laced to 600 hubs. I've ridden 1200 miles, and the rear wheel goes out of true on a 30 mile normal road ride. My lbs convinced me to rebuild it last week saying that would fix it. They kept the same spokes but used new nipples. Anyway, when I picked it up from the owner of the shop, he laughed and said that for my size (6'6" 265 pounds), there's no way that wheel will hold up. First ride it had gone out of true bad. So now I'm looking around. He said that a bigger spoke (currently has 15g) and a better rim like an open pro would fix it. He said the way mavic welded the open 4s caused them to be very weak at the weld. On the ride after the rebuild it did go out of true at the weld, so that lends some credence. I'm eternally on a budget, so I need suggestions. Are the paired spoke wheels and such any good for a clydesdale like me, or do I need to stick with a 32 spoke (or even a 36 on the rear). The front wheel of course has been perfect, just my weight on the rear... I am thinking about the Open Pros/Ultegra 32 hole from JensonUSA for $195+ship. Anyway, thanks for any suggestions... Brian I would recommend using 36 hole rims with non butted spokes. Sure its heavier, but it will last. An otherwise equivalent wheel with thinner, butted spokes will be more inclined to stay true. Bigger is not always better. Also, buy a truing stand and buy and read Jobst Brandt's book "The Bicycle Wheel". Then build the wheel yourself from the parts. 1) Its a good, productive way to spend a Saturday afternoon. 2) It will save you money in the long run (if not immediately). 3) You can ride in confidence knowing that that wheels were built properly. The 36-hole rim will require a 4-cross pattern, not the 3-cross of a 32- hole rim. Aside from that, building them is virtually the same. Why do you say that it requires it? The reason for crossing spokes is to get the spoke as close to tangent to the hub as possible to maximize torsional stiffness. In a lot of cases, cross 3 works better with 36 hole hubs and rims as you don't run into problems with the spokes interfering with each other at the hub and spokes meeting the rim at a more awkward angle (especially with a large flange hub). -- Chris Bird |
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Wheels for a clydesdale
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Wheels for a clydesdale
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