Attention Electronics Experts: L&M Urban

On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 11:59:14 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 2:03:32 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2021 18:38:27 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote:

So, I have this L&M Urban that is probably five or six years
old and well out of warranty.
Toldja to get Frank's increasingly rare and classic Californian Sharkoculus!
There are various Light and Motion Urban light models. There are
Urban 350, 500, 550, 800, 1000, etc. Whatcha got? Doesn't seem to be
in their current offerings:
https://lightandmotion.com/collections/urban-cycling
https://www.google.com/search?q=light+and+motion+urban&tbm=isch

gg says he has the 800.

Can I give up for now? We had a big wind storm that blew down some
trees. In my area, it was mostly dead oak trees. I have a tangle of
3 or 4 oaks leaning against my house, and mess of broken douglas fir
and redwood branches littering the area. Right now, the pile looks
like a giant wood rat house. I've been trying to get the trees that
might be a hazard first. Another day of chain sawing should do the
trick.
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/
No time to think about the L&M 800(?) light. Well, if you can't see
what you're doing, and have a smartphone or PC handy, try one of these
borescopes, which also work with inspecting the inside of the bicycle
frame tubing. I suggest 8mm dia:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=borescope+8mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-OTG-Micro-USB-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Borescope-2-0MP-Camera-1-2-5M/282420660651
About $12 (cheap).

Thanks for the analysis. I wonder if Jay will learn by destroying and save
the lamp ...

I think he's looking for an excuse to buy a new bicycle light.
However, a replacement COB (PC board) will do the trick. If he can
solder in a new battery, the COB should also be possible.

or if he just found a brilliant means to burn down his garage
in accordance with mostly peaceful January 20th celebrations.

I celebrated inauguration day by making as much noise as possible. The
engine noise from the entire neighborhoods supply of chain saws was
sufficient to ruin everyone's day. We had no power and no Comcast
internet for the day. Cellular data was terminally constipated from
everyone streaming the inauguration on their cell phones.

I was playing with it before work, and beating on the tiny
controller made some of the function lights work which may
indicate a bad trace or solder somewhere,

If it comes alive, it might be a broken trace on the PCB. It might
also be a broken wirebond inside the IC. I can't guess from here.

but I'm too blind and shaky to solder something the size of
an ant leg -- and I'm not going to go out and buy some home
micro-surgery suite just to fix that light. The back of the
chip is coated, so you can't see the traces.

Ok. No more excuses needed. Go find a new light.

The battery is good -- and measures above 4.4V.

Ummm... it's not suppose to be over 4.2v. Bad things happen inside
the battery if you go that high. You might be overcharging the LiIon
battery.

And I already got a replacement on sale at Western Bikeworks even
before buying the battery, so no light from Frank -- sorry Frank.

No problem. It's ok to buy a new light without my permission. I
won't complain much. Just don't try to get any free repair advice
when the replacement fails.

I'll take one more shot at it but probably just keep it for
parts. I'm also going to see if L&M will sell me a COB.

Maybe. It's worth a try. If you can't solder, just find someone who
can to do the work. Incidentally, L&M is in Marina Calif on the old
Ft Ord military base. I could drive over and dig through their
dumpster, but suspect that might not be very useful.

I need to fix the carb on my leaf blower, which will take precedence.

I hate noisy leaf blowers. However, I might change my mind after
spending 1.5 hrs sweeping my roof with a push broom.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding about 5 chain saw carburetors. All of
them were killed by the alcohol in today's gasoline. The problems
were mix of gum in the needle valves, clogged fuel screen in the carb,
and warped pump diaphragm. Rebuild kits are $10 to $15 (with
replacement plug, hoses, fuel filter, primer, etc). New carbs, up to
$40. There are YouTube videos on how it's done for most saws.

Then I need to clean my muddy bikes.

Among mountain bike enthusiasts, a coating of mud is considered a
status symbol. Perhaps it would be easier to switch to a mtn bike and
not wash off the mud?

I want them nice for the inauguration parade in my driveway.

Sigh... Back to chain sawing.


--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 13:16:39 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

...try one of these
borescopes, which also work with inspecting the inside of the bicycle
frame tubing. I suggest 8mm dia:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=borescope+8mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-OTG-Micro-USB-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Borescope-2-0MP-Camera-1-2-5M/282420660651
About $12 (cheap).

Some photos I took with one of those cheap borescopes (forgot which
model) of various things:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/USB%20Camera/640x480/index.html
I'll post some tubing inspections when I have time.

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 1/21/2021 3:16 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 11:59:14 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 2:03:32 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2021 18:38:27 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote:

So, I have this L&M Urban that is probably five or six years
old and well out of warranty.
Toldja to get Frank's increasingly rare and classic Californian Sharkoculus!
There are various Light and Motion Urban light models. There are
Urban 350, 500, 550, 800, 1000, etc. Whatcha got? Doesn't seem to be
in their current offerings:
https://lightandmotion.com/collections/urban-cycling
https://www.google.com/search?q=light+and+motion+urban&tbm=isch

gg says he has the 800.

Can I give up for now? We had a big wind storm that blew down some
trees. In my area, it was mostly dead oak trees. I have a tangle of
3 or 4 oaks leaning against my house, and mess of broken douglas fir
and redwood branches littering the area. Right now, the pile looks
like a giant wood rat house. I've been trying to get the trees that
might be a hazard first. Another day of chain sawing should do the
trick.
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/
No time to think about the L&M 800(?) light. Well, if you can't see
what you're doing, and have a smartphone or PC handy, try one of these
borescopes, which also work with inspecting the inside of the bicycle
frame tubing. I suggest 8mm dia:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=borescope+8mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-OTG-Micro-USB-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Borescope-2-0MP-Camera-1-2-5M/282420660651
About $12 (cheap).

Thanks for the analysis. I wonder if Jay will learn by destroying and save
the lamp ...

I think he's looking for an excuse to buy a new bicycle light.
However, a replacement COB (PC board) will do the trick. If he can
solder in a new battery, the COB should also be possible.

or if he just found a brilliant means to burn down his garage
in accordance with mostly peaceful January 20th celebrations.

I celebrated inauguration day by making as much noise as possible. The
engine noise from the entire neighborhoods supply of chain saws was
sufficient to ruin everyone's day. We had no power and no Comcast
internet for the day. Cellular data was terminally constipated from
everyone streaming the inauguration on their cell phones.

I was playing with it before work, and beating on the tiny
controller made some of the function lights work which may
indicate a bad trace or solder somewhere,

If it comes alive, it might be a broken trace on the PCB. It might
also be a broken wirebond inside the IC. I can't guess from here.

but I'm too blind and shaky to solder something the size of
an ant leg -- and I'm not going to go out and buy some home
micro-surgery suite just to fix that light. The back of the
chip is coated, so you can't see the traces.

Ok. No more excuses needed. Go find a new light.

The battery is good -- and measures above 4.4V.

Ummm... it's not suppose to be over 4.2v. Bad things happen inside
the battery if you go that high. You might be overcharging the LiIon
battery.

And I already got a replacement on sale at Western Bikeworks even
before buying the battery, so no light from Frank -- sorry Frank.

No problem. It's ok to buy a new light without my permission. I
won't complain much. Just don't try to get any free repair advice
when the replacement fails.

I'll take one more shot at it but probably just keep it for
parts. I'm also going to see if L&M will sell me a COB.

Maybe. It's worth a try. If you can't solder, just find someone who
can to do the work. Incidentally, L&M is in Marina Calif on the old
Ft Ord military base. I could drive over and dig through their
dumpster, but suspect that might not be very useful.

I need to fix the carb on my leaf blower, which will take precedence.

I hate noisy leaf blowers. However, I might change my mind after
spending 1.5 hrs sweeping my roof with a push broom.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding about 5 chain saw carburetors. All of
them were killed by the alcohol in today's gasoline. The problems
were mix of gum in the needle valves, clogged fuel screen in the carb,
and warped pump diaphragm. Rebuild kits are $10 to $15 (with
replacement plug, hoses, fuel filter, primer, etc). New carbs, up to
$40. There are YouTube videos on how it's done for most saws.

Then I need to clean my muddy bikes.

Among mountain bike enthusiasts, a coating of mud is considered a
status symbol. Perhaps it would be easier to switch to a mtn bike and
not wash off the mud?

I want them nice for the inauguration parade in my driveway.

Sigh... Back to chain sawing.



in re fuel-
Yes I hear that complaint (& more) from small-engine owners
regularly. Others just buy no-ethanol premium actual
gasoline. Do you know any classic car or motorcycle
gearheads/ They'll know where to buy gasoline. AVGAS is
harder in that you both have to know someone and there's a
security problem as well.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 1/21/2021 1:47 PM, AMuzi wrote:

snip

in re fuel-
Yes I hear that complaint (& more) from small-engine owners regularly.
Others just buy no-ethanol premium actual gasoline.Â* Do you know any
classic car or motorcycle gearheads/ They'll know where to buy gasoline.
AVGAS is harder in that you both have to know someone and there's a
security problem as well.

Supposedly there's one place, about 200 miles from Jeff, that sells it.
https://www.pure-gas.org/station?station_id=16121.

On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 15:47:29 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

in re fuel-
Yes I hear that complaint (& more) from small-engine owners
regularly. Others just buy no-ethanol premium actual
gasoline.

I just bought a 1/2 gallon of Stihl pre-mix fuel for my best chain saw
(Stihl MS180) for $16. That's 8 times the cost of automotive gas.
Ouch:
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/fluids-and-lubrication/lubricants/4000289
I'm getting tired of rebuilding carburetors every 2 years, even if I
drain the tank and carb when storing the saws.

Do you know any classic car or motorcycle
gearheads/ They'll know where to buy gasoline. AVGAS is
harder in that you both have to know someone and there's a
security problem as well.

Thanks. I know one of each type. I didn't think of asking and I'll
give it a try.

What I did exactly once was to remove the ethanol from the gas by
adding an exact amount of water, shake well, let the water/alcohol mix
settle to the bottom, and drain water/alcohol mix from the bottom of
the bottle. I made about 3 gallons at a time. It was way too much
work for just my saws.

Instructional videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=remove+ethanol+from+gasoline

I initially made a few mistakes which made the ethanol free gas run
badly and still gum up the carburetor. However, the ethanol wasn't
the problem. The additives in todays gas are just as bad or worse for
the carb than ethanol. This video covers most of the problems with
benzene and olefins:
"The Truth About Why Gas Station Fuel Is Bad For Small Engines"
(10:14)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvps2gF0Sdo

At this point, I've given up and am buying expensive pre-mixed fuel.
It is possible to make a carb diaphragms and gaskets that don't get
hardened by ethanol. Maybe my next chain saw will be fuel injected or
run on propane.

--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 14:39:37 -0800, sms
wrote:

Supposedly there's one place, about 200 miles from Jeff, that sells it.
https://www.pure-gas.org/station?station_id=16121.

The map shows more and closer stations in northern California:
https://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/maps.jsp?statecode=CA
There's one in San Ramon CA. I'll give them a call after I'm done
with my deforestation project.


--
Jeff Liebermann
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Thursday, January 21, 2021 at 1:16:49 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 11:59:14 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 2:03:32 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2021 18:38:27 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote:

So, I have this L&M Urban that is probably five or six years
old and well out of warranty.
Toldja to get Frank's increasingly rare and classic Californian Sharkoculus!
There are various Light and Motion Urban light models. There are
Urban 350, 500, 550, 800, 1000, etc. Whatcha got? Doesn't seem to be
in their current offerings:
https://lightandmotion.com/collections/urban-cycling
https://www.google.com/search?q=light+and+motion+urban&tbm=isch

gg says he has the 800.
Can I give up for now? We had a big wind storm that blew down some
trees. In my area, it was mostly dead oak trees. I have a tangle of
3 or 4 oaks leaning against my house, and mess of broken douglas fir
and redwood branches littering the area. Right now, the pile looks
like a giant wood rat house. I've been trying to get the trees that
might be a hazard first. Another day of chain sawing should do the
trick.
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/
No time to think about the L&M 800(?) light. Well, if you can't see
what you're doing, and have a smartphone or PC handy, try one of these
borescopes, which also work with inspecting the inside of the bicycle
frame tubing. I suggest 8mm dia:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=borescope+8mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-OTG-Micro-USB-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Borescope-2-0MP-Camera-1-2-5M/282420660651
About $12 (cheap).
Thanks for the analysis. I wonder if Jay will learn by destroying and save
the lamp ...
I think he's looking for an excuse to buy a new bicycle light.
However, a replacement COB (PC board) will do the trick. If he can
solder in a new battery, the COB should also be possible.
or if he just found a brilliant means to burn down his garage
in accordance with mostly peaceful January 20th celebrations.
I celebrated inauguration day by making as much noise as possible. The
engine noise from the entire neighborhoods supply of chain saws was
sufficient to ruin everyone's day. We had no power and no Comcast
internet for the day. Cellular data was terminally constipated from
everyone streaming the inauguration on their cell phones.
I was playing with it before work, and beating on the tiny
controller made some of the function lights work which may
indicate a bad trace or solder somewhere,
If it comes alive, it might be a broken trace on the PCB. It might
also be a broken wirebond inside the IC. I can't guess from here.
but I'm too blind and shaky to solder something the size of
an ant leg -- and I'm not going to go out and buy some home
micro-surgery suite just to fix that light. The back of the
chip is coated, so you can't see the traces.
Ok. No more excuses needed. Go find a new light.
The battery is good -- and measures above 4.4V.
Ummm... it's not suppose to be over 4.2v. Bad things happen inside
the battery if you go that high. You might be overcharging the LiIon
battery.
And I already got a replacement on sale at Western Bikeworks even
before buying the battery, so no light from Frank -- sorry Frank.
No problem. It's ok to buy a new light without my permission. I
won't complain much. Just don't try to get any free repair advice
when the replacement fails.
I'll take one more shot at it but probably just keep it for
parts. I'm also going to see if L&M will sell me a COB.
Maybe. It's worth a try. If you can't solder, just find someone who
can to do the work. Incidentally, L&M is in Marina Calif on the old
Ft Ord military base. I could drive over and dig through their
dumpster, but suspect that might not be very useful.
I need to fix the carb on my leaf blower, which will take precedence.
I hate noisy leaf blowers. However, I might change my mind after
spending 1.5 hrs sweeping my roof with a push broom.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding about 5 chain saw carburetors. All of
them were killed by the alcohol in today's gasoline. The problems
were mix of gum in the needle valves, clogged fuel screen in the carb,
and warped pump diaphragm. Rebuild kits are $10 to $15 (with
replacement plug, hoses, fuel filter, primer, etc). New carbs, up to
$40. There are YouTube videos on how it's done for most saws.
Then I need to clean my muddy bikes.
Among mountain bike enthusiasts, a coating of mud is considered a
status symbol. Perhaps it would be easier to switch to a mtn bike and
not wash off the mud?
I want them nice for the inauguration parade in my driveway.
Sigh... Back to chain sawing.

I've rebuilt or replaced most of my carbs. I have a Honda lawnmower, and the carb was $19, and it weighs a pound. The little Zamas and Walbros are more than that. There is inverse correlation between weight and price in the outdoor equipment carb world. I'm just going to buy a new one for the leaf blower. It's ancient, and I've rebuilt it already. I really should get a new leaf blower, but I'm trying to keep my equipment going until I move to wherever I retire.

The L&M is in pieces, and I might right the company to see if they would send me a COB. It's low priority. Higher priority is rebuilding the leaking backflow valve on the hydronic system.

My next bicycle project is building a chain suck guard for the Norco gravel bike. My son had another incident the last time he was in town. I don't know why he drops the chain -- maybe too much power when down shifting. The rings aren't shark-toothed, so I don't know why they would be holding on to the chain. Last chain-suck incident gashed an already repaired area, so I'm going to cut and form some Kydex and glue it to the frame. The chain watcher on that bike is useless.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Thursday, January 21, 2021 at 9:21:26 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 15:47:29 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

in re fuel-
Yes I hear that complaint (& more) from small-engine owners
regularly. Others just buy no-ethanol premium actual
gasoline.
I just bought a 1/2 gallon of Stihl pre-mix fuel for my best chain saw
(Stihl MS180) for $16. That's 8 times the cost of automotive gas.
Ouch:
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/fluids-and-lubrication/lubricants/4000289
I'm getting tired of rebuilding carburetors every 2 years, even if I
drain the tank and carb when storing the saws.
Do you know any classic car or motorcycle
gearheads/ They'll know where to buy gasoline. AVGAS is
harder in that you both have to know someone and there's a
security problem as well.
Thanks. I know one of each type. I didn't think of asking and I'll
give it a try.

What I did exactly once was to remove the ethanol from the gas by
adding an exact amount of water, shake well, let the water/alcohol mix
settle to the bottom, and drain water/alcohol mix from the bottom of
the bottle. I made about 3 gallons at a time. It was way too much
work for just my saws.

Instructional videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=remove+ethanol+from+gasoline

I initially made a few mistakes which made the ethanol free gas run
badly and still gum up the carburetor. However, the ethanol wasn't
the problem. The additives in todays gas are just as bad or worse for
the carb than ethanol. This video covers most of the problems with
benzene and olefins:
"The Truth About Why Gas Station Fuel Is Bad For Small Engines"
(10:14)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvps2gF0Sdo

At this point, I've given up and am buying expensive pre-mixed fuel.
It is possible to make a carb diaphragms and gaskets that don't get
hardened by ethanol. Maybe my next chain saw will be fuel injected or
run on propane.

You do understand that buy gas over the lifetime of that chainsaw at prices like that far offsets using regular gasoline and buying a new saw as yours wears out don't you? This like the misconception that your can put $2200 wheels on your bike because it has disk brakes when you can buy Chinese carbon wheels that weigh the same and have the same failure rates as expensive wheels but wear out the rim brake pads for $250. The cost of outfitting a bike for hydraulic brakes and maintaining them is more than the cost of the new Chinese carbon wheels.

On Friday, January 22, 2021 at 7:07:40 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, January 21, 2021 at 1:16:49 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2021 11:59:14 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 2:03:32 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2021 18:38:27 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote:

So, I have this L&M Urban that is probably five or six years
old and well out of warranty.
Toldja to get Frank's increasingly rare and classic Californian Sharkoculus!
There are various Light and Motion Urban light models. There are
Urban 350, 500, 550, 800, 1000, etc. Whatcha got? Doesn't seem to be
in their current offerings:
https://lightandmotion.com/collections/urban-cycling
https://www.google.com/search?q=light+and+motion+urban&tbm=isch

gg says he has the 800.
Can I give up for now? We had a big wind storm that blew down some
trees. In my area, it was mostly dead oak trees. I have a tangle of
3 or 4 oaks leaning against my house, and mess of broken douglas fir
and redwood branches littering the area. Right now, the pile looks
like a giant wood rat house. I've been trying to get the trees that
might be a hazard first. Another day of chain sawing should do the
trick.
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/chainsaw/
No time to think about the L&M 800(?) light. Well, if you can't see
what you're doing, and have a smartphone or PC handy, try one of these
borescopes, which also work with inspecting the inside of the bicycle
frame tubing. I suggest 8mm dia:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=borescope+8mm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-OTG-Micro-USB-Endoscope-Waterproof-Inspection-Borescope-2-0MP-Camera-1-2-5M/282420660651
About $12 (cheap).
Thanks for the analysis. I wonder if Jay will learn by destroying and save
the lamp ...
I think he's looking for an excuse to buy a new bicycle light.
However, a replacement COB (PC board) will do the trick. If he can
solder in a new battery, the COB should also be possible.
or if he just found a brilliant means to burn down his garage
in accordance with mostly peaceful January 20th celebrations.
I celebrated inauguration day by making as much noise as possible. The
engine noise from the entire neighborhoods supply of chain saws was
sufficient to ruin everyone's day. We had no power and no Comcast
internet for the day. Cellular data was terminally constipated from
everyone streaming the inauguration on their cell phones.
I was playing with it before work, and beating on the tiny
controller made some of the function lights work which may
indicate a bad trace or solder somewhere,
If it comes alive, it might be a broken trace on the PCB. It might
also be a broken wirebond inside the IC. I can't guess from here.
but I'm too blind and shaky to solder something the size of
an ant leg -- and I'm not going to go out and buy some home
micro-surgery suite just to fix that light. The back of the
chip is coated, so you can't see the traces.
Ok. No more excuses needed. Go find a new light.
The battery is good -- and measures above 4.4V.
Ummm... it's not suppose to be over 4.2v. Bad things happen inside
the battery if you go that high. You might be overcharging the LiIon
battery.
And I already got a replacement on sale at Western Bikeworks even
before buying the battery, so no light from Frank -- sorry Frank.
No problem. It's ok to buy a new light without my permission. I
won't complain much. Just don't try to get any free repair advice
when the replacement fails.
I'll take one more shot at it but probably just keep it for
parts. I'm also going to see if L&M will sell me a COB.
Maybe. It's worth a try. If you can't solder, just find someone who
can to do the work. Incidentally, L&M is in Marina Calif on the old
Ft Ord military base. I could drive over and dig through their
dumpster, but suspect that might not be very useful.
I need to fix the carb on my leaf blower, which will take precedence.
I hate noisy leaf blowers. However, I might change my mind after
spending 1.5 hrs sweeping my roof with a push broom.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding about 5 chain saw carburetors. All of
them were killed by the alcohol in today's gasoline. The problems
were mix of gum in the needle valves, clogged fuel screen in the carb,
and warped pump diaphragm. Rebuild kits are $10 to $15 (with
replacement plug, hoses, fuel filter, primer, etc). New carbs, up to
$40. There are YouTube videos on how it's done for most saws.
Then I need to clean my muddy bikes.
Among mountain bike enthusiasts, a coating of mud is considered a
status symbol. Perhaps it would be easier to switch to a mtn bike and
not wash off the mud?
I want them nice for the inauguration parade in my driveway.
Sigh... Back to chain sawing.
I've rebuilt or replaced most of my carbs. I have a Honda lawnmower, and the carb was $19, and it weighs a pound. The little Zamas and Walbros are more than that. There is inverse correlation between weight and price in the outdoor equipment carb world. I'm just going to buy a new one for the leaf blower. It's ancient, and I've rebuilt it already. I really should get a new leaf blower, but I'm trying to keep my equipment going until I move to wherever I retire.

The L&M is in pieces, and I might right the company to see if they would send me a COB. It's low priority. Higher priority is rebuilding the leaking backflow valve on the hydronic system.

My next bicycle project is building a chain suck guard for the Norco gravel bike. My son had another incident the last time he was in town. I don't know why he drops the chain -- maybe too much power when down shifting. The rings aren't shark-toothed, so I don't know why they would be holding on to the chain. Last chain-suck incident gashed an already repaired area, so I'm going to cut and form some Kydex and glue it to the frame. The chain watcher on that bike is useless.

You probably respect your equipment and what it costs in the long run and ease off a little when shifting.

On 1/21/2021 9:28 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jan 2021 14:39:37 -0800, sms
wrote:

Supposedly there's one place, about 200 miles from Jeff, that sells it.
https://www.pure-gas.org/station?station_id=16121.

The map shows more and closer stations in northern California:
https://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/maps.jsp?statecode=CA
There's one in San Ramon CA. I'll give them a call after I'm done
with my deforestation project.

Click on the details, it says that the San Ramon station no longer sells
it. West Sacramento appears to have it.