Coker upgrade to Airfoil, finally!

I MUni on my Coker about twice a week.
After some hard UPD on the pedal/axle; my Coker hub is dead... RIP

Some people have been saying hardware failure is sign for upgrade?
Well my Coker's axle has FAILED where one side is sticking out too far
thereby GRINDING the pedal. So I finally ordered the Airfoil rim and
wide hub from UDC. They are telling me I need to make sure the wheel
builder does at "4-crossed pattern" anyone heard of this? While I was
on phone I also orderd a 127mm cranks and UDC gel saddle. I am out
$200, ouch. At least it was only a arm and not arm-AND-leg.


Now I will be able to leap tall building in a single bound, stop a
bullet on my Airfoil rim.... err wrong fantasy. Just no more
taco-worries I guess.


--
leadpan

"Pain is temporary. Quitting lasts forever" - Lance Armstrong
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I've heard good things about the Airfoil rims. Not a Cokeur myself but
I bet you'll be glad you upgraded. Any wheel builder will know what a
4 cross pattern is.


--
underdog

'I tell you, we are here on Earth to fart around, and don't let anybody
tell you different' - Kurt Vonnegut
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A 4 cross lace is what makes the stock spokes fit a different diameter
rim from the stock one. It really was sort of a lucky fit that the
airfoil would work with stock spokes at all.


--
pdc

"What doesn't kill you strengthens you, what kills you strengthens your
mother"
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Just take it to the builder and tell him/her that it needs to be laced 4
cross. He will kno what you mean.


--
trials_uni

TRIALS 4 LIFE !
UNICYCLING FOR MYSLELF
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The simplest wheel design would have radial spokes. They would go
straight out to the rim from the hub without crossing.

By rearranging the pattern, and using slightly longer spokes, a wheel
could be designed where each spoke crossed one other spoke on its way
to the rim. That would be "1 cross".

By extension, you could have 2 cross, 3 cross and so on. Most standard
wheels on most standard bicycles are 3 cross.

A three cross wheel has a little more give and resilience than a 2
cross. A radial one would be very stiff, but also weak when expesed to
certain specific stresses.

So the 4 cross is simply a wheel where each spoke crosses 4 others on
its way to the rim. It will be a touch heavier, but a touch more
resilient.


--
Mikefule

"No one likes circus skills, juggling is dire, and clowns are on
registers at most police stations."
(The late and sadly-missed Linda Smith)
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As of today i am an official Cokeur on airfoil my first coker trip
was to ride it home and it was a blast... i shall take it for another
spin later this avo, however i have been told that at the length of its
current cranks the hill climb may be a challenge


--
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I am kind of entertaining the thought of gett a coker, and I was
wondering what are better overall cranks, 125's or 150's or a size
inbetween? first I need to learn if I even fit on a coker
though


--
mornish

UNICYCLING FOR MYSLELF TOO

"LX seats are as comfortable as bricks." lildude2
"CX seats are bricks."
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im riding 125's cuz thats what it came with. generally speaking 150's
are best (or so i am told) for general riding


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Crank length is a very individual thing. The ideal crank length will
vary from rider to rider, and depend on the style of riding, the
terrain, and the rider's experience. The Coker usually comes with
150s, and they are a good all-round length for learning, for riding
safely near crowds, and for quite adventurous cross country.

Some people prefer the versatility of 170s, which will go up and down
steeper stuff. Others prefer the slightly faster and smoother 125s.
Many people who do big distances mainly on the flat like to cruise on
110s.

If you're going to buy a Coker, just buy it with the 150s, then make a
change when you have a few hundred miles under the tyre and know what
aspect of Cokering grabs you.

There is no more logic to it than that.

I rode yesterday some rough track sand steep-ish hills on a 28 with
102s. Those very same hills used to be a massive challenge to me on a
26 with 150s. I like short-ish cranks on my 28s, but I have always
preferred longer ones on the Coker. Of course, I have the heavy steel
rim, and I'm scrawny.


--
Mikefule

"No one likes circus skills, juggling is dire, and clowns are on
registers at most police stations."
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muzzle wrote:
im riding 125's cuz thats what it came with. generally speaking 150's
are best (or so i am told) for general riding



I'll tell you differently

150's will leave you very sore for any distance riding.

110's are best for general riding, 125's for hilly road rides, 150's
for off-road, and 100's for flat.

But basically what Mike said:


Mikefule wrote:
Crank length is a very individual thing.


--
GizmoDuck

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The SINZ Unitour 2007...
The Monguni tour 2008....
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