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#121
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I am that out of date
On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:33:02 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Only $6,000? https://www.beautifullife.info/automotive-design/most-expensive-bicycles-in-the-world/ Winner of the conspicuous consumption in cycling award is the $1,000,0000 gold plated mountain bike. It's #1 at the bottom of the page. -- Jeff Liebermann Not sure about the $1million or $10million (you have seven zeroes after the 1, that gets you to $10million) gold plated bikes. But Trek and Specialized, two main stream sold everywhere bike brands have bikes a LOT higher than a mere $6,000. Specialized SL7 is $13k. Trek Madone SLR9 is $12.5k. The mid priced bikes from these two companies are more than $6k. |
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#122
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I am that out of date
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 19:30:51 -0700, "Mark J."
wrote: On 4/25/2021 6:22 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank. --Jay Beattie. You remind me of a fond bike-wrenching memory: In college I worked a few stints at a local shop, mostly assembling new bikes for the Christmas rush (a thing that used to happen in the bike biz, but does no longer, I'm told). One day a Prof from my school came in with his three-speed, maybe a Raleigh. I recognized him, though he didn't know me. His sadness was palpable as he held a detached pedal in his hand. "I think I broke it, is there anything you can do? Can it be repaired?" The steel crank threads were rough, maybe damaged by the pedal coming out, so you couldn't screw the pedal back in by hand. I ran a pedal tap through the crank arm, probably in from the back side; put a bit of oil on the pedal threads, in it went, and I tightened it thoroughly. I'm sure I checked that it was spinning freely. You would have thought I had parted the Red Sea. He was so delighted, and he made me feel like a wizard. I don't know what the boss charged him - I was just a temp wrench and prices were above my pay grade - but he came back after paying and stuffed a five dollar bill in my shirt pocket, which was a fair bit of money back then. Mark J. To many any sort of mechanical work is akin to magic :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#123
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I am that out of date
Am 25.04.2021 um 06:53 schrieb Jeff Liebermann:
How about a cure for ALL cancers? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-V_MDVgISo It too will probably take 10 to 15 years to obtain research funding and for all the agencies and departments to sign off on a treatment: "Vaccine Development, Testing, and Regulation" https://www.historyofvaccines.org/content/articles/vaccine-development-testing-and-regulation With government help, add an additional 10 to 15 years. This is what BioNTec were working on until Jan 2020. In the last 15 months, they have been given billions to ensure mRNA technoloy is safe and mass-producable. Id' say once we have spare production capacities for mRNA mecidation, individually tuned cancer vaccination will not be that far off any more. Rolf |
#124
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 7:29 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 20:09:21 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: Our Bikes Friday require a fair amount of disassembly to pack into their suitcases for airline travel. That includes removing the pedals from the cranks. Think about installing folding pedals: snip There are also the MKS removable pedals. I have then on one of folding bikes. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDCDSP6. |
#125
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 6:32 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
snip Only $6,000? https://www.beautifullife.info/automotive-design/most-expensive-bicycles-in-the-world/ Winner of the conspicuous consumption in cycling award is the $1,000,0000 gold plated mountain bike. It's #1 at the bottom of the page. Oh-oh. Looks like the link to: https://www.thehouseofsolidgold.com goes to a bogus site starting with "Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet". The builder probably took the solid gold and ran. Did it have electronic shifting? |
#126
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 9:20 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/25/2021 9:22 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque? If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued. If so, then you have bearing binding. The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank. Can't those be Helicoiled? In theory but the usual pedal thread repair is a 5/8" full sleeve: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...ast/ped_58.jpg -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#127
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I am that out of date
On Monday, April 26, 2021 at 12:12:29 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
To many any sort of mechanical work is akin to magic :-) HT for the Isaac Azimov reference! :-) |
#128
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I am that out of date
Rolf Mantel wrote:
Am 25.04.2021 um 06:53 schrieb Jeff Liebermann: How about a cure for ALL cancers? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-V_MDVgISo It too will probably take 10 to 15 years to obtain research funding and for all the agencies and departments to sign off on a treatment: "Vaccine Development, Testing, and Regulation" https://www.historyofvaccines.org/content/articles/vaccine-development-testing-and-regulation With government help, add an additional 10 to 15 years. This is what BioNTec were working on until Jan 2020. In the last 15 months, they have been given billions to ensure mRNA technoloy is safe and mass-producable. If you weren't actually meaning it, I'd be applauding your twisted sense of humor. |
#129
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 10:29 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 25 Apr 2021 20:09:21 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: Our Bikes Friday require a fair amount of disassembly to pack into their suitcases for airline travel. That includes removing the pedals from the cranks. Think about installing folding pedals: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/Sunlite%2067302%20folding%20pedals/index.html Not the best, not very strong, quite cheap, and doesn't require tools to fold down. More of the same: https://www.google.com/search?q=folding+bicycle+pedals&tbm=isch There are also removable pedals: https://www.google.com/search?q=removable+bicycle+pedals&tbm=isch For example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000017581531.html Perhaps I'll consider those if the current system ever gives me problems. But I've had no problems so far. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#130
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I am that out of date
On 4/25/2021 10:30 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 4/25/2021 6:22 PM, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 3:57:27 PM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 1:06:28 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:07:14 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 7:52:41 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/25/2021 10:17 AM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 7:46:20 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote: Tom Kunich wrote: On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 8:59:48 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 4/22/2021 10:36 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/21/2021 10:33 PM, wrote: I somehow forgot about clipless pedals. They are a HUGE improvement. I started with Time Equipe road pedals back in the late 1980s, early 1990s. Same ones Lemond used. Interestingly, the guy who set our club's record for club mileage (11,000+ miles of club rides, not counting his individual rides) just got a new pair of shoes for riding. They're ordinary New Balance sneakers. He rides using toe clips. There are also the occasional barefoot marathon runner and US football kicker. They are outliers. One of our club riders mentioned that most falls on bicycles stems from people not getting their feet out of clips rapidly enough. So he reverted to flat pedals. Now he cannot keep up on any climbs. And people with training can get out of pedals just as fast as he can step off of a flat pedal since they are ready to clip out when the conditions warrant care. Can’t say I have found any performance difference at all, I used clipless for a few years on my first road bike, was fine, never struggled to clip in or out or had a clip less moment but I never loved them. Few years back bought a CX bike for hacking about the woods plus road and put some MTB flats on, and used my MTB flat shoes, ie pedals with pins in, plus shoes with soft tacky tread. In short with proper flats you can’t slide the shoe but have to lift to reposition, unlike the road flats which are frankly terrifying slippy. I’ve done 100+ miles on them, climbed up big mountains, tackled seriously steep climbs etc. I’ve seen opinions dressed as science with huge gains for clipless but proper stuff the gains is marginal, apparently. Which certainly echoes my experience. Interesting the pulling up, gain is very difficult to prove. Roger Merriman Yesterday, when the pedal stripped out of the crank, I pedaled a mile with on leg. Try that with flat pedals. Wow. How did the pedal strip out of the crank? I was just riding along and the pedal started rocking. I immediately turned around to see if I could make it back but 10 miles from home the pedal, threads and all simply pulled right out. Pedals, as you know, are "British threaded" so you only have to tighten them to "snug" so I tighten them in with an Allen Key to keep from overtightening them and pulling threads. I stopped using the large and heavy pedals wrench long ago except to pull a pedal off. But this is the first time I can remember a pedal stripping out of a crank. The only cause I can think of is that the thread diameter on the pedal was undersize and the top of the threads on the pedal were cut flat on top. Or you under-tightened the pedal, which is the most probable explanation. It's 30-40nm torque -- which is more than "snug," which is IMO about 12-15nm like Shimano crank bolts. Jay, pedals are English threaded and under force they tighten. I took these pedals and cranks on two hard climbing rides so if they weren't tight enough before they were tight enough after. I have never had any problems with FSA cranks and Look pedals. Looking at the threads on the Rock Bros Keo substitute you can see that the threads are not badly made but I'm willing to admit that rather than the pedal it might just as well have been the material of the crank. I just measured the threaded area OD on the Rock Bros pedals and it is pretty regular 0.55" which is .0125 smaller than the 9/16 but it is the same measurement as Look pedals measured in the same manner. Did you tighten the pedals to recommended torque?Â* If not, it backed out because the pedals were under-torqued.Â* If so, then you have bearing binding.Â* The question now is if you have ruined the pedal threads and need to replace the crank. --Jay Beattie. You remind me of a fond bike-wrenching memory: In college I worked a few stints at a local shop, mostly assembling new bikes for the Christmas rush (a thing that used to happen in the bike biz, but does no longer, I'm told). One day a Prof from my school came in with his three-speed, maybe a Raleigh.Â* I recognized him, though he didn't know me.Â* His sadness was palpable as he held a detached pedal in his hand.Â* "I think I broke it, is there anything you can do? Can it be repaired?" The steel crank threads were rough, maybe damaged by the pedal coming out, so you couldn't screw the pedal back in by hand. I ran a pedal tap through the crank arm, probably in from the back side; put a bit of oil on the pedal threads, in it went, and I tightened it thoroughly.Â* I'm sure I checked that it was spinning freely. You would have thought I had parted the Red Sea.Â* He was so delighted, and he made me feel like a wizard.Â* I don't know what the boss charged him - I was just a temp wrench and prices were above my pay grade - but he came back after paying and stuffed a five dollar bill in my shirt pocket, which was a fair bit of money back then. We MEs would say "He was probably an Electrical Engineer." ;-) Or maybe English? Once I noticed a faculty member's bike parked in a rack on campus with the front quick release not clamped, but instead screwed down by hand. I tracked the guy down and gave him a lesson on quick release levers. He was very grateful. I found him in his office in the English department. -- - Frank Krygowski |
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