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Solid rear axle or quick release axle
Have finally managed to get the rear gear cluster off son's rear wheel
(finally got a freewheel remover/puller/tool: I had been trying to use a cassette remover/puller/tool)he'd snapped the axle on same so thought it will make life easier if I could remove the rear cluster myself (jings aren't they tight). Now I have got the freewheel off have noticed the wheel is slightly buckled and a couple of the spokes look like they have a kink in them (fairly sure the wheel was like that not made that way by my removal attempts). So have decided to buy a new wheel rather than just try and fix the axle of this one. The actual point to this question is should he go for a solid rear axle or should he go for a QR one. He says he wasn't hashing the bike, so does the rear axle 'go' a lot with normal use or was it a case of this must have been a 'Friday' axle, and they tend not to snap, and the chances are the rear axle will never snap again. He doesn't race this bike, so apart from 'fashion' and not having to carry a bike key to get the wheel off (yes I know you can fix a puncture without taking the wheel off but...)he has no requirement for a QR axle. Picture of the snapped axle along with the snapped skewer. http://www.sidtech.co.uk/iu/soup810266626955.JPG |
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#2
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Solid rear axle or quick release axle
soup wrote:
Have finally managed to get the rear gear cluster off son's rear wheel (finally got a freewheel remover/puller/tool: I had been trying to use a cassette remover/puller/tool)he'd snapped the axle on same so thought it will make life easier if I could remove the rear cluster myself (jings aren't they tight). Now I have got the freewheel off have noticed the wheel is slightly buckled and a couple of the spokes look like they have a kink in them (fairly sure the wheel was like that not made that way by my removal attempts). So have decided to buy a new wheel rather than just try and fix the axle of this one. The actual point to this question is should he go for a solid rear axle or should he go for a QR one. I've had top of the range Campagnolo axles break on a freewheel hub. The way that design evolved is just a recipe for broken axles. Solid or quick release makes no difference, a bending load puts a strain on the axle at the recessed bearing and failure is likely. The way to go is to get a freehub wheel rather than one that takes a screw on freewheel because the bearing setup on a freehub axle is a better design. Of course this will mean getting a cassette and chain and possibly chainrings too depending on the wear of the chain. -- Phil Cook looking north over the park to the "Westminster Gasworks" |
#3
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Solid rear axle or quick release axle
On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 20:31:56 +0100, Phil Cook
wrote: The way to go is to get a freehub wheel rather than one that takes a screw on freewheel because the bearing setup on a freehub axle is a better design. Of course this will mean getting a cassette and chain and possibly chainrings too depending on the wear of the chain. +1. I have bent and broken axles on freewheel bikes, never on a bike with a cassette. Cassettes are so cheap these days it's not really worth trying to save the difference. And yes, get a QR version, if school is an issue then fit allen key skewers. Tool-free removal is a boon if you're out for a ride and get a visit from the p*nct*r* f**ry. Guy -- http://www.chapmancentral.co.uk/urc | http://www.nohelmetlaw.org.uk/ "Nullius in Verba" - take no man's word for it. - attr. Horace, chosen by John Evelyn for the Royal Society |
#4
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Solid rear axle or quick release axle
On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:17:48 GMT, soup wrote:
Have finally managed to get the rear gear cluster off son's rear wheel (finally got a freewheel remover/puller/tool: I had been trying to use a cassette remover/puller/tool)he'd snapped the axle on same so thought it will make life easier if I could remove the rear cluster myself (jings aren't they tight). Now I have got the freewheel off have noticed the wheel is slightly buckled and a couple of the spokes look like they have a kink in them (fairly sure the wheel was like that not made that way by my removal attempts). So have decided to buy a new wheel rather than just try and fix the axle of this one. The actual point to this question is should he go for a solid rear axle or should he go for a QR one. He says he wasn't hashing the bike, so does the rear axle 'go' a lot with normal use or was it a case of this must have been a 'Friday' axle, and they tend not to snap, and the chances are the rear axle will never snap again. He doesn't race this bike, so apart from 'fashion' and not having to carry a bike key to get the wheel off (yes I know you can fix a puncture without taking the wheel off but...)he has no requirement for a QR axle. All else being equal, solid axles are stronger - but not much. The difference is due in part to the extra material in the centre, and in part due to the fact that the compression due to a qr spindle tends to increase the bending moment on a hollow axle. Both effects are quite small; the extra material is not far enough from the centre-line to be of much help, and qr's are not usually done up tight enough to add much bending force. But usually, all else is not equal - axles of the highest quality will be be made of better steel, with better tooling and methods. The strongest axle is probably something like an old Campagnolo track hub, but you'd pay a pretty price for one of those. Get a good quality hub on your new wheel - no boutique stuff, just a solid japanese name-brand 36-hole variety and you will probably be fine. |
#5
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Solid rear axle or quick release axle
On Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:17:48 GMT
soup wrote: The actual point to this question is should he go for a solid rear axle or should he go for a QR one. He says he wasn't hashing the bike, so does the rear axle 'go' a lot with normal use or was it a case of this must have been a 'Friday' axle, and they tend not to snap, and the chances are the rear axle will never snap again. Traditionally hollow axles snap and solid axles bend (knackering the bearings as they do so) but since freehubs have become common the problem has pretty much gone away because the design places less stress on the drive side of the axle. So get a freehub wheel and avoid the dilemma. :-) |
#6
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Solid rear axle or quick release axle
In the referenced article, writes:
.... The way to go is to get a freehub wheel rather than one that takes a screw on freewheel because the bearing setup on a freehub axle is a better design. Of course this will mean getting a cassette and chain and possibly chainrings too depending on the wear of the chain. Sheldon Brown's article on Shimano freehubs is well worth a read: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html He points out that the Shimano freehub bearings are closer to the axle ends than freewheel bearings. This makes bent/broken axles far less common. Also see Jobst Brandt's take on this: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/free-k7.html I believe[1] Campagnolo axles are made larger to withstand the stresses and help compensate for the inboard bearing. This is an engineering compromise which may be effective. [1] Hey, this is Usenet. No room for solid facts here! Feel free to correct me and tell me I'm an idiot. -- Dennis Davis, BUCS, University of Bath, Bath, BA2 7AY, UK |
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