Split link on deraillieur chain.

davethedave wrote:
On Tue, 06 Mar 2012 22:44:32 +0000, Ian Field wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 22:47:01 +0000, Ian Field wrote:

When I scrounged it on freecycle the chain looked like it hadn't seen
any oil since the bike was bought.

Since then its had a couple of cans of moly/graphite chainspray
followed by a good smear of PTFE grease.

I'd have to break the chain so I can take it off and wash it in
parafin to get that lot off - so I can find the split link.

Toothbrush and a jar of dipping paraffin with many rags for soaking up
excess. You might just be better off getting a new chain.

I'd still have to clean it to count how many links!

http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Even better: http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 3/6/2012 5:44 PM, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 22:47:01 +0000, Ian Field wrote:

When I scrounged it on freecycle the chain looked like it hadn't seen
any oil since the bike was bought.

Since then its had a couple of cans of moly/graphite chainspray followed
by a good smear of PTFE grease.

I'd have to break the chain so I can take it off and wash it in parafin
to get that lot off - so I can find the split link.

Toothbrush and a jar of dipping paraffin with many rags for soaking up
excess. You might just be better off getting a new chain.

I'd still have to clean it to count how many links!



Just put it in a plastic bottle with solvent and soak/shake it up.
Settle the solvent & reuse, Personally, I never bother cleaning chains,
I just replace when worn out.

"Peter Cole" wrote in message
...
On 3/6/2012 5:44 PM, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 22:47:01 +0000, Ian Field wrote:

When I scrounged it on freecycle the chain looked like it hadn't seen
any oil since the bike was bought.

Since then its had a couple of cans of moly/graphite chainspray
followed
by a good smear of PTFE grease.

I'd have to break the chain so I can take it off and wash it in parafin
to get that lot off - so I can find the split link.

Toothbrush and a jar of dipping paraffin with many rags for soaking up
excess. You might just be better off getting a new chain.

I'd still have to clean it to count how many links!



Just put it in a plastic bottle with solvent and soak/shake it up. Settle
the solvent & reuse, Personally, I never bother cleaning chains, I just
replace when worn out.


Its got incredibly encrusted in a surpisingly short space of time - I should
probably clean it so I can inspect it and see how knackered it is.

On Thu, 8 Mar 2012 22:43:53 -0000, "Ian Field"
wrote:


"Peter Cole" wrote in message
...
On 3/6/2012 5:44 PM, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 05 Mar 2012 22:47:01 +0000, Ian Field wrote:

When I scrounged it on freecycle the chain looked like it hadn't seen
any oil since the bike was bought.

Since then its had a couple of cans of moly/graphite chainspray
followed
by a good smear of PTFE grease.

I'd have to break the chain so I can take it off and wash it in parafin
to get that lot off - so I can find the split link.

Toothbrush and a jar of dipping paraffin with many rags for soaking up
excess. You might just be better off getting a new chain.

I'd still have to clean it to count how many links!



Just put it in a plastic bottle with solvent and soak/shake it up. Settle
the solvent & reuse, Personally, I never bother cleaning chains, I just
replace when worn out.


Its got incredibly encrusted in a surpisingly short space of time - I should
probably clean it so I can inspect it and see how knackered it is.

You are making a fundamental error in chain care. The preferred
technique is to avoid all that yucky crud built up by cleaning the
chain very carefully in kerosene, or other solvent, and add a final
rinse in MEK or acetone to remove the kero residue. Your chain will
remain sparkling clean for ages.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 09/03/12 12:57, John B. wrote:

You are making a fundamental error in chain care. The preferred
technique is to avoid all that yucky crud built up by cleaning the
chain very carefully in kerosene, or other solvent, and add a final
rinse in MEK or acetone to remove the kero residue. Your chain will
remain sparkling clean for ages.

Haha. It will also likely squeak, rust and wear faster.

--
JS.

Peter Cole wrote:

John B. wrote:

[...]But as I said, several bike shops have told me that they
just press out any pin and used the same pin to re-join the chain. As
one of the shops is probably the largest, and considered probably the
best in Bangkok I suspect that if reusing the pin caused a multitude
of chain failures they would be a bit more conservative in their
recommendation.

I wouldn't do it. I'm not a fan of Shimano chains, and chain joining on
newer narrow chains (8 speed & up) is tricky even with experience. If I
had a chain without a quick/master link, I'd buy one a la carte.

In my shop, $12 7-speed KMC chains without a quick link sell a lot
more briskly than $18 8-speed SRAM chains with one. Almost the only
folks who opt for the slightly more expensive chain are those
obligated to do so by the number of sprockets on their bike.

Even careful pinning of the 7-speed chain often results in the pin
broaching out a wee sliver of metal from the chain sideplate, which
makes me very uneasy. Still, the only failures I have seen that were
definitely attributable to pinned connections had been visibly botched
by amateur mechanics. (There are also inconclusive failures that
might have been at the reattached link.)

Chalo

On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:22:50 +1100, James
wrote:

On 09/03/12 12:57, John B. wrote:

You are making a fundamental error in chain care. The preferred
technique is to avoid all that yucky crud built up by cleaning the
chain very carefully in kerosene, or other solvent, and add a final
rinse in MEK or acetone to remove the kero residue. Your chain will
remain sparkling clean for ages.

Haha. It will also likely squeak, rust and wear faster.


But it won't get that patina of crud that the poster was complaining
of, and apparently you don't recognize a tongue in the cheek ;-0

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Mar 4, 11:19*pm, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 4 Mar 2012 15:26:40 -0000, "Ian Field"

wrote:
Is it even worth looking for one or should I just grab the chain punch?

Thanks.

To be politically correct one should search a Shimano chain to
discover the original joining pin and remove that pin. It can be
identified by having a different end then the others.

In reality it may *not make much of a difference as several shops have
told me that they, "just push out any pin".

--
Cheers,

John B.

NOT TRUE...once the pin is installed that link has been deformed. The
supplied chain pin is much harder than the other pins in the chain and
pushing another pin out doesn't deform the plate like the hardened pin
does BUT best idea is to use a Wipperman Connex snap link.

"James" wrote in message
...
On 09/03/12 12:57, John B. wrote:

You are making a fundamental error in chain care. The preferred
technique is to avoid all that yucky crud built up by cleaning the
chain very carefully in kerosene, or other solvent, and add a final
rinse in MEK or acetone to remove the kero residue. Your chain will
remain sparkling clean for ages.

Haha. It will also likely squeak, rust and wear faster.


I think John B is trying to out-troll the toxic DTD.

Thinking about it though, parafin probably isn't all that cheap these days
and I can only think of one place in town that still sells it anymore.

OTOH "gunwash" version of cellulose thinners, while too dirty for cleaning
much else would probably clean a chain to "powder dry" and its significantly
less than petrol.

Mind you; you'd have to put some effort into working in the next application
of chain spray before using it under load.

On 09/03/12 21:55, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:22:50 +1100,
wrote:

On 09/03/12 12:57, John B. wrote:

You are making a fundamental error in chain care. The preferred
technique is to avoid all that yucky crud built up by cleaning the
chain very carefully in kerosene, or other solvent, and add a final
rinse in MEK or acetone to remove the kero residue. Your chain will
remain sparkling clean for ages.

Haha. It will also likely squeak, rust and wear faster.


But it won't get that patina of crud that the poster was complaining
of, and apparently you don't recognize a tongue in the cheek ;-0

Sorry, when it comes to chain cleaning and maintenance, there are so
many weird ideas, religious enchantments and potions, it's hard to know
when someone is serious or not!

--
JS.