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#1
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Fitting cartridge bottom brackets
I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of Zinn
regarding fitting catridge BBs. Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread in the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the non-driveside cup and tighten this to torque. The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the flange on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time. Which is right? I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads about half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened the non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through. On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup are shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then tightens the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing feel as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it that way for a while without problems. What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and then just nip up the cup? I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for this to happen would it need to be obviously loose? Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid potential damage. |
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#2
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Fitting cartridge bottom brackets
I've looked a bit closer at things. If I fit the cartridge (driveside) and
tighten it up to about 60Nm as per the spec. and then tighten the non-driveside cup, tightening the cup also seems to tighten the driveside, when the cup hits around 60Nm (or feels tight by hand) the cartridge registers over 100Nm, this is way too much surely. The axle also feels remarkably stiff too. What damage can be caused by overtightening a BB, could I strip the shell threads or crack the BB shell. Is the tighness of the cup critical? "PJay" wrote in message ... I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of Zinn regarding fitting catridge BBs. Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread in the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the non-driveside cup and tighten this to torque. The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the flange on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time. Which is right? I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads about half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened the non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through. On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup are shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then tightens the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing feel as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it that way for a while without problems. What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and then just nip up the cup? I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for this to happen would it need to be obviously loose? Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid potential damage. |
#3
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Fitting cartridge bottom brackets
On May 4, 9:14 am, "PJay" wrote:
I've looked a bit closer at things. If I fit the cartridge (driveside) and tighten it up to about 60Nm as per the spec. and then tighten the non-driveside cup, tightening the cup also seems to tighten the driveside, when the cup hits around 60Nm (or feels tight by hand) the cartridge registers over 100Nm, this is way too much surely. The axle also feels remarkably stiff too. What damage can be caused by overtightening a BB, could I strip the shell threads or crack the BB shell. Is the tighness of the cup critical? "PJay" wrote in message ... I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of Zinn regarding fitting catridge BBs. Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread in the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the non-driveside cup and tighten this to torque. The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the flange on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time. Which is right? I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads about half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened the non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through. On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup are shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then tightens the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing feel as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it that way for a while without problems. What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and then just nip up the cup? I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for this to happen would it need to be obviously loose? Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid potential damage. If tightening the BB cups makes the spindle too tight, need to prep the BB shell, chase and face. |
#4
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Fitting cartridge bottom brackets
Oddly I've found that axle stiffness doesn't occur at all if I replace the
resin adapter with an alloy one, no idea why this works though. "Qui si parla Campagnolo" wrote in message ups.com... On May 4, 9:14 am, "PJay" wrote: I've looked a bit closer at things. If I fit the cartridge (driveside) and tighten it up to about 60Nm as per the spec. and then tighten the non-driveside cup, tightening the cup also seems to tighten the driveside, when the cup hits around 60Nm (or feels tight by hand) the cartridge registers over 100Nm, this is way too much surely. The axle also feels remarkably stiff too. What damage can be caused by overtightening a BB, could I strip the shell threads or crack the BB shell. Is the tighness of the cup critical? "PJay" wrote in message ... I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of Zinn regarding fitting catridge BBs. Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread in the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the non-driveside cup and tighten this to torque. The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the flange on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time. Which is right? I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads about half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened the non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through. On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup are shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then tightens the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing feel as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it that way for a while without problems. What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and then just nip up the cup? I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for this to happen would it need to be obviously loose? Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid potential damage. If tightening the BB cups makes the spindle too tight, need to prep the BB shell, chase and face. |
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