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#21
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
landotter wrote:
At any rate, Taiwanese and Chinese factories churn out cheap and cheerful frames in steel and aluminum which are great if you fit a standard size and just want something straight to bolt parts onto and ride. That is true. It's mind-boggling to me that you can buy a perfectly good, brand new frameset from a number of sources and pay less for it than it would cost you to get a basic one-color paint job on the same frame. I've come to enjoy the patina and personality of salvaged bikes better than new ones, but there's no doubt that for practicality, compatibility, and effort-efficiency it's hard to beat plain no- nonsense new equipment. Chalo |
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#22
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
In article
, Sir Ridesalot wrote: Hi. I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing. The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way around the top tube. To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about $275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that tube. I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable along the top of the toptube. He took an indepth bicycle mechanic repair course and is cetified. I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the bike. In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done: Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to ride? Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake cable housing enters and exits? Thanks and cheers Fill the holes and braze on cable stops. Less cable housing - less friction. -- Michael Press |
#23
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
In article
, Chalo wrote: landotter wrote: Unlike steel frames of the 80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't bother. I think Japanese lugged steel frames of the mid-'80s (immediately pre- index shifting) were about as good as mass market steel frames ever got. '70s steel frames were often crude, crooked, or poorly finished, or sometimes all three. But once the Japanese got their game on quality- wise, they began to show everyone else in the world how it was done. Mid-80s Nishikis, Bridgestones, Panasonics, Univegas, Miyatas, Maruishis, and Japanese-made Schwinns and Specializeds are unsurpassed in terms of level of craftsmanship per cost. Gimmicky bull**** like internal cable routing was more characteristic of overvalued European-made fashion bikes, like the stuff that's being made from plastic these days. Of course these things did not work out as well as interchangeable Japanese frames with proven conservative design and consistent workmanship. I had one of those Nishiki bicycles. While everything you say is true, for some reason it rode like a pig. It was a bit heavy and showed it. Not nifty, and rode hard. It was stable. -- Michael Press |
#24
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 04:15:17 -0800 (PST), Lou Holtman
wrote: On 25 jan, 03:57, Dark Helmet wrote: On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:20:55 -0800 (PST), landotter wrote: On Jan 24, 11:38*am, Lou Holtman wrote: Op 24-1-2012 12:39, Sir Ridesalot schreef: Hi. I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing. The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way around the top tube. To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about $275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that tube. I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable along the top of the toptube. He *took an indepth bicycle mechanic repair course and is cetified. I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the bike. In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done: Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to ride? Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake cable housing enters and exits? Thanks and cheers I'm shocked! A steel frame that breaks? WTF ;-) Fortunately you can ride to the first blacksmith in the middle of nowhere. He can repair your frame so I'm told again and again. Just kidding. If the frame has emotional value replace the whole tube otherwise consider a cheap aluminum replacement. My 2 ct. Lou Indeed. If you want something for riding. Unlike steel frames of the 80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't bother. Boy do I disagree. *At the start of 2010 I sent my 1991 Bob Jackson 531 Pro bike for frame repair (freeing a stuck stem, adding a front derailleur boss, and respacing the rear triangle from 126mm to 130mm) for about $250 plus shipping. *Then I had the who frame stripped and repainted, including replacing all the Bob Jackson Reynold 531 frame decals, for a painting total of $650. *That was about $900 to repair and refinish the frame, and in my opinion it was worth every penny. That frame has more miles on it than my car and is now over 20 years old and still in fine condition. You can keep your cheap aluminum frames. *They creak and flex to much for my taste; I'll take steel every day of the week!- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht niet weergeven - - Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht weergeven - It is hard/impossible to rationalize spending 900 dollar on a 20 year old steel frame. For 900 dollar you can get the best aluminum frame available today. Besides emotional value better in every other aspect than a steel frame with pretty common Reynolds 531 tubing. Lou Whatever. This old frame was a custom build made to fit ME specifically. It was well worth the repair and custom paint job. The paint was expensive because one of the best frame painters in the US worked on it and had to do all the logo work by hand. I couldn't find anybody to give me a cheaper bid. |
#25
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
On 25-1-2012 22:11, Chalo wrote:
landotter wrote: At any rate, Taiwanese and Chinese factories churn out cheap and cheerful frames in steel and aluminum which are great if you fit a standard size and just want something straight to bolt parts onto and ride. That is true. It's mind-boggling to me that you can buy a perfectly good, brand new frameset from a number of sources and pay less for it than it would cost you to get a basic one-color paint job on the same frame. or buy an unpainted frame for less than the going price of it's weight in extruded alumnium at the metal merchant! -- /Marten info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl |
#26
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
On 26 jan, 04:43, Dark Helmet wrote:
On Wed, 25 Jan 2012 04:15:17 -0800 (PST), Lou Holtman wrote: On 25 jan, 03:57, Dark Helmet wrote: On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:20:55 -0800 (PST), landotter wrote: On Jan 24, 11:38*am, Lou Holtman wrote: Op 24-1-2012 12:39, Sir Ridesalot schreef: Hi. I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing. The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way around the top tube. To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about $275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that tube. I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable along the top of the toptube. He *took an indepth bicycle mechanic repair course and is cetified. I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the bike. In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done: Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to ride? Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake cable housing enters and exits? Thanks and cheers I'm shocked! A steel frame that breaks? WTF ;-) Fortunately you can ride to the first blacksmith in the middle of nowhere. He can repair your frame so I'm told again and again. Just kidding. If the frame has emotional value replace the whole tube otherwise consider a cheap aluminum replacement. My 2 ct. Lou Indeed. If you want something for riding. Unlike steel frames of the 80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't bother. Boy do I disagree. *At the start of 2010 I sent my 1991 Bob Jackson 531 Pro bike for frame repair (freeing a stuck stem, adding a front derailleur boss, and respacing the rear triangle from 126mm to 130mm) for about $250 plus shipping. *Then I had the who frame stripped and repainted, including replacing all the Bob Jackson Reynold 531 frame decals, for a painting total of $650. *That was about $900 to repair and refinish the frame, and in my opinion it was worth every penny. That frame has more miles on it than my car and is now over 20 years old and still in fine condition. You can keep your cheap aluminum frames. *They creak and flex to much for my taste; I'll take steel every day of the week!- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht niet weergeven - - Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht weergeven - It is hard/impossible to rationalize spending 900 dollar on a 20 year old steel frame. For 900 dollar you can get the best aluminum frame available today. Besides emotional value better in every other aspect than a steel frame with pretty common Reynolds 531 tubing. Lou Whatever. *This old frame was a custom build made to fit ME specifically. *It was well worth the repair and custom paint job. *The paint was expensive because one of the best frame painters in the US worked on it and had to do all the logo work by hand. *I couldn't find anybody to give me a cheaper bid.- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht niet weergeven - - Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht weergeven - It perfectly OK with me that you spent that kind of money repairing/ updating your frame. A custom/unique paintjob doesn't make it ride better, creak less or make it less flexible. IMO your contempt of cheap aluminum frames is misplaced. Aluminum doesn't creak and aluminum frames are not flexible by default. On the contrary. Lou |
#27
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
On Jan 26, 8:11*am, m-gineering wrote:
On 25-1-2012 22:11, Chalo wrote: landotter wrote: At any rate, Taiwanese and Chinese factories churn out cheap and cheerful frames in steel and aluminum which are great if you fit a standard size and just want something straight to bolt parts onto and ride. That is true. *It's mind-boggling to me that you can buy a perfectly good, brand new frameset from a number of sources and pay less for it than it would cost you to get a basic one-color paint job on the same frame. or buy an unpainted frame for less than the going price of it's weight in extruded alumnium at the metal merchant! I noticed that with some European rims last year, the fancy rim extrusion, bending pocketing and drilling from a bicycle and parts retailer being cheaper by 10% than a simple square extrusion of similar dimension and weight from a metal stockholder. I expect that the stockholder was keeping his prices related to the ingot price, rising with the market for the basic commodity. |
#28
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
Michael Press writes:
In article , Sir Ridesalot wrote: Hi. I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing. The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way around the top tube. To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about $275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that tube. I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable along the top of the toptube. He took an indepth bicycle mechanic repair course and is cetified. I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the bike. In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done: Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to ride? Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake cable housing enters and exits? Thanks and cheers Fill the holes and braze on cable stops. Less cable housing - less friction. The friction of a straight section is negligible. However, routing the cable internally slighly increases the total curvature, so that can have a small effect. Also, the compressibility of the housing is eliminated (with cable stops). -- Joe Riel |
#29
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
Michael Press wrote:
Chalo wrote: I think Japanese lugged steel frames of the mid-'80s (immediately pre- index shifting) were about as good as mass market steel frames ever got. '70s steel frames were often crude, crooked, or poorly finished, or sometimes all three. But once the Japanese got their game on quality- wise, they began to show everyone else in the world how it was done. Mid-80s Nishikis, Bridgestones, Panasonics, Univegas, Miyatas, Maruishis, and Japanese-made Schwinns and Specializeds are unsurpassed in terms of level of craftsmanship per cost. I had one of those Nishiki bicycles. While everything you say is true, for some reason it rode like a pig. It was a bit heavy and showed it. Not nifty, and rode hard. It was stable. I guess I like pigs. My '75 Schwinn Varsity rides great for me now that I've added beefed-up wheels, stem, and bars. It's much better than I expected. My 1980ish Japanese Schwinn Traveler weighed almost 11-1/2 pounds as frame, fork, headset and bottom bracket. It's one of the sweetest-riding bikes I've ever had. All my bikes that exhibited easily noticeable frame movement while riding have fallen by the wayside, except for my youngest ('00s vintage) Cannondale touring bike. The front end of that bike twists out of plane with the rear, but it is tolerable as a basket bike for jaunts around town. Chalo |
#30
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Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?
On Jan 24, 1:52*pm, AMuzi wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote: Hi. I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing. The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way around the top tube. To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about $275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that tube. I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable along the top of the toptube. He *took an indepth bicycle mechanic repair course and is cetified. I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the bike. In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done: Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to ride? Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake cable housing enters and exits? Thanks and cheers You should replace the tube. Example:http://www.yellowjersey.org/gth.html A MIG patch is a temporary solution and will almost certainly fail. $275 is a fair price for a lugged tube replacement, neither at the high nor low extreme. -- Andrew Muzi * www.yellowjersey.org/ * Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Okay. Now I'm curious about an effective emergency repair if this had happend on the road a long ways from home. If the frame was cut completely through where the crack is and then twisted out of line so that a snug fitting internal sleeve could be inserted and then MIG weldeed or brazed; would that be an effective repair for say 200 miles of riding? Thanks again and cheers |
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