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Cleaning of chain and all components



 
 
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  #11  
Old July 18th 19, 09:11 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 824
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:39:48 AM UTC+2, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.


If you ride a 15 dollar chain and a 30 dolar cassette and you are not a bike nerd like some of us don't do that again. Wipe your chain as clean as possible with a rag before lubing. Lube regularly with whatever oily stuff and ride the **** out of your chain until some gears starts to skip. Then replace the chain and cassette. If you ride a 45 dollar chain and a 200 dollar cassette pay attention to some of the advice you get.


Lou, my 2 cents.
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  #12  
Old July 18th 19, 09:35 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Chalo
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Posts: 5,093
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

Here's what I do:

Put the bike in a stand. Wipe the chain, lube with TriFlow, wipe again. Lube it again and wipe it again. If the mark on the rag isn't opaque black, I'm done. If it is, I lube it again and wipe it again.

I replace the chain when it exceeds 0.5% elongation compared to new.

Chains are too cheap to waste time and chemical exposure on them. They last respectably well for me as it is. If I rode in more filth, or if my local dirt were more abrasive, I might have a different opinion about it.
  #13  
Old July 18th 19, 10:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
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Posts: 10,422
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 4:39:48 AM UTC+1, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.


The last time my time was available by the hour, before I changed over to a retainer-only system, about 1980, it was £2000 (probably about $5000) per hour, door to door, including travelling and sleeping time.

For lubing I spend zero hours. You can too:

1. Get a hub gearbox. It costs less than a fancy derailleur gruppo and lasts much longer.

2. Fit a Chainglider. This is a hard reinforced rubber-like complete enclosure of the chain, sprocket and chainring. You can now ride the bike in your street clothes without transferring oil to everything. I routinely ride in pale cream clothes in summer.

3. Ride the bike. Do nothing else. Do no service whatsoever. Ride the chain on its factory lube until it reaches about 0.5pc elongation, which will be at up to three times the mileage you got on an open, cleaned, serviced, lube chain. Fit a new chain, refit the Chainglider, ride bike, do nothing else. Save the bother and the wasted time. For chains I use the common, cheap KMC X8-93. There is no need to buy the X8-99 which is fully nickel plated because the half-nickel stays bright inside the Chainglider. If you can get the Z7 single-speed cheaper than the X8-93, that's also an excellent chain.

The reason for not taking the chain to its 0.75pc elongation as on a derailleur system, or beyond because a proper hub gear installation is longitudinally adjustable as the transmission parts wear together and you can thus, theoretically at least, run everything until the chain and sprockets fall apart, is that chains are cheap and new sprockets and chainwheels are a hassle to fit even if they aren't in themselves expensive (I run a standard Rohloff sprocket, very long-lasting, and a Surly stainless steel chainring, ditto, as more labour-saving devices). After over 10,000km on my everyday bike, the Rohloff sprocket displays zero sign of wear, and the stainless and steel chainrings I've used on this bike ditto, the steel ones even still having their black paint, this despite having a high-torque central motor fitted. Contrary to the first reaction of the OCD toothbrush-strokers among the roadies, mine is a low-abrasion regime. Compare with getting a third the mileage I get per chain now from the (time-wasting) waxed Shimano Nexus crank, sprocket and chain-sets I used before.

Simple, really.

Andre Jute
Lateral thinker
  #14  
Old July 18th 19, 11:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
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Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:13:01 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 2:49:02 AM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix.

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.


I agree in general with James' ideas. In my experience, wax with a small amount
(maybe 5%) oil mixed into it is the best lubricant.

I don't melt candles. I bought paraffin wax (as used for canning jelly at home)
in the grocery store. One pound costs maybe two dollars and lasts the rest of
your life. You can leave the remainder to your grandchildren. Melt it very
carefully (it's flammable) and blend in a bit of oil or gear lube. Let it
solidify and save it.

My most unusual technique is to not remove the chain from the bike. Instead,
with the bike on a workstand and with sheet metal protecting the frame and tire,
I use a low-flame torch to warm 10" of chain, crayon on the wax-oil mix, then
reheat until the wax crumbs melt and flow into the chain. Backpedal to access
the next 10" of chain and repeat. When the whole chain is done, wipe off the
excess with paper towels.

For me, this is easier than the hot pot method; but either way works.

It's very likely that one poster here will jump in and say "Never use paraffin
to lubricate a chain!" and post decades old statements from others claiming it's
not effective. He will pointedly ignore results of tests that prove this is both
the lowest friction lube, and the one that makes chains last longest. It also
keeps your bike far cleaner than any liquid lubricant.

But to be clear, if you choose instead to keep using other liquid lubricants,
you're welcome to do that.

- Frank Krygowski


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my experience,
has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the rain.
--
cheers,

John B.

  #16  
Old July 19th 19, 12:02 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
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Posts: 5,870
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 3:32:37 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:13:01 -0700 (PDT), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 2:49:02 AM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 18/7/19 1:39 pm, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?


Don't use the same lubricant again.

Get some candle wax (paraffin wax) and oil (paraffin oil or even EP gear
oil). Heat the wax in an old pot and mix in about the same volume or a
bit less, of oil.

Immerse your chain in the hot oil/wax solution. Let it cook for 5 minutes.

When it is al dente, remove it carefully with a pair of pliers or hook
it out with a piece of wire (like and old spoke). Careful it will be
hot. Let it drip off and cool down. Install it on the bike when you
can handle it without burning yourself.

Use a quick link (Connex are about the best) to facilitate easy chain
removal and installation.

About every 1000km, take the chain off and cook it in your wax/oil mix..

Your running gear will stay pretty clean, and any build up will be easy
to brush off, and won't go far from where the chain engages the other parts.


I agree in general with James' ideas. In my experience, wax with a small amount
(maybe 5%) oil mixed into it is the best lubricant.

I don't melt candles. I bought paraffin wax (as used for canning jelly at home)
in the grocery store. One pound costs maybe two dollars and lasts the rest of
your life. You can leave the remainder to your grandchildren. Melt it very
carefully (it's flammable) and blend in a bit of oil or gear lube. Let it
solidify and save it.

My most unusual technique is to not remove the chain from the bike. Instead,
with the bike on a workstand and with sheet metal protecting the frame and tire,
I use a low-flame torch to warm 10" of chain, crayon on the wax-oil mix, then
reheat until the wax crumbs melt and flow into the chain. Backpedal to access
the next 10" of chain and repeat. When the whole chain is done, wipe off the
excess with paper towels.

For me, this is easier than the hot pot method; but either way works.

It's very likely that one poster here will jump in and say "Never use paraffin
to lubricate a chain!" and post decades old statements from others claiming it's
not effective. He will pointedly ignore results of tests that prove this is both
the lowest friction lube, and the one that makes chains last longest. It also
keeps your bike far cleaner than any liquid lubricant.

But to be clear, if you choose instead to keep using other liquid lubricants,
you're welcome to do that.

- Frank Krygowski


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my experience,
has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the rain.


Meh. Everything washes off in the rain. It's just a matter of time. Parffin flakes off and doesn't give you an corrosion protection. I just use the Lou method -- rise, lather repeat. I'm not going to be hanging out in the garage melting wax, particularly since most of my chains have single-use quick-links.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #17  
Old July 19th 19, 12:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
James[_8_]
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Posts: 6,153
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On 19/7/19 9:02 am, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 3:32:37 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my
experience, has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the
rain.


Meh. Everything washes off in the rain. It's just a matter of time.
Parffin flakes off and doesn't give you an corrosion protection. I
just use the Lou method -- rise, lather repeat. I'm not going to be
hanging out in the garage melting wax, particularly since most of my
chains have single-use quick-links.


For neat paraffin wax, I agree and it was my experience that the chain
would rust after a wet ride. So I added oil to the wax. The result is
good corrosion resistance and a relatively clean and smooth running chain.



--
JS
  #18  
Old July 19th 19, 01:43 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On 7/18/2019 5:54 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 13:11:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:39:48 AM UTC+2, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.


If you ride a 15 dollar chain and a 30 dolar cassette and you are not a bike nerd like some of us don't do that again. Wipe your chain as clean as possible with a rag before lubing. Lube regularly with whatever oily stuff and ride the **** out of your chain until some gears starts to skip. Then replace the chain and cassette. If you ride a 45 dollar chain and a 200 dollar cassette pay attention to some of the advice you get.


Lou, my 2 cents.


If you aren't a "bike nerd" take the bike to the shop and let somebody
else do it :-)



We listen politely to 'please clean my chain' as we write
"new chain' on the service order. Saves customer a pile of
money.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #19  
Old July 19th 19, 02:09 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
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Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Fri, 19 Jul 2019 09:36:23 +1000, James
wrote:

On 19/7/19 9:02 am, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 3:32:37 PM UTC-7, John B. wrote:


The other advantage of a wax based lube, or at least my
experience, has been, that it doesn't seem to wash off in the
rain.


Meh. Everything washes off in the rain. It's just a matter of time.
Parffin flakes off and doesn't give you an corrosion protection. I
just use the Lou method -- rise, lather repeat. I'm not going to be
hanging out in the garage melting wax, particularly since most of my
chains have single-use quick-links.


For neat paraffin wax, I agree and it was my experience that the chain
would rust after a wet ride. So I added oil to the wax. The result is
good corrosion resistance and a relatively clean and smooth running chain.


I do something similar. When I initially decided to go with the wax
lube I went to a "candle store" where they sell mainly candles for
church or temple affairs but also sell wax and candle wicks and so on
for those that want to do it themselves. Anyway, they had both
paraffin and bee's wax so I bought the paraffin and a little bee's wax
(it is bloody expensive ) thinking that the bee's wax would make the
paraffin a bit more flexible, it didn't, or I didn't use enough, so I
added some light viscosity synthetic grease and that has worked real
well.

I don't start out on a ride if it is raining but I've been caught a
number of times in some pretty good showers and as far as I can see it
has never washed the wax airway and I've never seen a spot of rust on
the chain.... but to be honest I never saw any rust when I was using
spray lube on the chain either :-)
--
cheers,

John B.

  #20  
Old July 19th 19, 02:20 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
jOHN b.
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,421
Default Cleaning of chain and all components

On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 19:43:09 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 7/18/2019 5:54 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 18 Jul 2019 13:11:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Thursday, July 18, 2019 at 5:39:48 AM UTC+2, AK wrote:
I spent about 3.5 hrs. cleaning my chain and everything it comes in contact with.

What a tedious job.

Used the following:

1. Engine cleaner
2. Paint thinner
3. Used toothbrush
4. Occasional foul language

I mentioned it to my friendly bike repair guy and he said many do not realize the damage a dirty chain does to the bearings etc.

It shortens their life.

I think it helped as I think I can go around 3 mph faster.

Any other maintenance tips?

Thanks,
Andy

It always too soon to quit.

If you ride a 15 dollar chain and a 30 dolar cassette and you are not a bike nerd like some of us don't do that again. Wipe your chain as clean as possible with a rag before lubing. Lube regularly with whatever oily stuff and ride the **** out of your chain until some gears starts to skip. Then replace the chain and cassette. If you ride a 45 dollar chain and a 200 dollar cassette pay attention to some of the advice you get.


Lou, my 2 cents.


If you aren't a "bike nerd" take the bike to the shop and let somebody
else do it :-)



We listen politely to 'please clean my chain' as we write
"new chain' on the service order. Saves customer a pile of
money.


When we were in Phuket much of the time the bike shop in the next
little town washed a lot of bikes. They would tell the customer
"tomorrow, tomorrow" until they collected several bike and than the
mechanic would come in early one day and wash them with a pressure
washer and it was $10.00 each.
--
cheers,

John B.

 




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