Bike sizing

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top tube
compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy set-back
seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper positioning.
Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still adjusting the seat
position. However, for my current seat position, when I'm on the brake
hoods, I can see about half the front axle relative to the handlebars, and
when I'm on the drops, I can see all of the front axle and about 1/2 inch -
1 inch more from the handlebars to the axle. Is it true that the
handlebars should block the axle when you're in your normal riding position
(the brake hoods for me)?

Thanks.

--
Bob M in CT remove 'x.' to reply

In article ,
Bob M wrote:

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top tube
compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy set-back
seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper positioning.
Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still adjusting the seat
position. However, for my current seat position, when I'm on the brake
hoods, I can see about half the front axle relative to the handlebars, and
when I'm on the drops, I can see all of the front axle and about 1/2 inch -
1 inch more from the handlebars to the axle. Is it true that the
handlebars should block the axle when you're in your normal riding position
(the brake hoods for me)?

No.

--
Ryan Cousineau, http://www.sfu.ca/~rcousine
President, Fabrizio Mazzoleni Fan Club

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:54:31 -0700, Ryan Cousineau wrote:

In article ,
Bob M wrote:

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top
tube compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy
set-back seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper
positioning. Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still
adjusting the seat position. However, for my current seat position,
when I'm on the brake hoods, I can see about half the front axle
relative to the handlebars, and when I'm on the drops, I can see all of
the front axle and about 1/2 inch - 1 inch more from the handlebars to
the axle. Is it true that the handlebars should block the axle when
you're in your normal riding position (the brake hoods for me)?

No.


Then how do you size it? Assuming that the knee-pedal axle distance is
correct, I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just keep
getting longer stems until the pain goes away?

--
Bob M in CT remove 'x.' to reply

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:02:40 GMT, Bob M wrote:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:54:31 -0700, Ryan Cousineau wrote:

In article ,
Bob M wrote:

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top
tube compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy
set-back seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper
positioning. Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still
adjusting the seat position. However, for my current seat position,
when I'm on the brake hoods, I can see about half the front axle
relative to the handlebars, and when I'm on the drops, I can see all of
the front axle and about 1/2 inch - 1 inch more from the handlebars to
the axle. Is it true that the handlebars should block the axle when
you're in your normal riding position (the brake hoods for me)?

No.


Then how do you size it? Assuming that the knee-pedal axle distance is
correct, I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just keep
getting longer stems until the pain goes away?

Why do you think a *longer* stem will help with too much weight on the
hands? That seems reversed to me.

Handlebar height can be a big factor in weight distribution, also.

Since it your first ride, maybe you just need more time with the new
setup and some adjustments without getting new parts. And talk to
where you bought the bike- they should have advice on fit. And they
should be willing to lend you various stems to find the right length
and height.

I remember the 'block the axle' fitting advice from the '70s. I didn't
know that it still held. Rake, headtube angle, seat setback, top tube
length, handlebar design- many factors in where your eyes end up in
relation to the front axle and handlebars.... I'd pay attention to how
you feel rather than what you see.

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 10:30:21 -0700, Dan Daniel wrote:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:02:40 GMT, Bob M wrote:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:54:31 -0700, Ryan Cousineau
wrote:

In article ,
Bob M wrote:

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top
tube compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy
set-back seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper
positioning. Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still
adjusting the seat position. However, for my current seat position,
when I'm on the brake hoods, I can see about half the front axle
relative to the handlebars, and when I'm on the drops, I can see all
of the front axle and about 1/2 inch - 1 inch more from the handlebars
to the axle. Is it true that the handlebars should block the axle
when you're in your normal riding position (the brake hoods for me)?

No.


Then how do you size it? Assuming that the knee-pedal axle distance is
correct, I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just
keep getting longer stems until the pain goes away?

Why do you think a *longer* stem will help with too much weight on the
hands? That seems reversed to me.

My reason for this is that I had weight on my hands, then I adjusted my
seat backward a bit at about 13 miles into my ride. (I adjusted the seat
backwards because I felt I was too far forward on the pedals.) The weight
on my hands decreased. Up until that point, my hands were going numb.
After that point, my hands felt better. I still feel a bit compressed.


Handlebar height can be a big factor in weight distribution, also.

Unfortunately, with the idiotic threadless systems now in use, it's hard to
raise the handlebar and dangerous to lower it. (Dangerous from the
standpoint that you can't raise it.) I do feel that the hoods and
handlebar need to be rotated downward. Or perhaps you're talking about
getting a handlebar with less rise (or more rise)? That's a good idea.

Since it your first ride, maybe you just need more time with the new
setup and some adjustments without getting new parts. And talk to
where you bought the bike-they should have advice on fit. And they
should be willing to lend you various stems to find the right length
and height.

I remember the 'block the axle' fitting advice from the '70s. I didn't
know that it still held. Rake, headtube angle, seat setback, top tube
length, handlebar design-many factors in where your eyes end up in
relation to the front axle and handlebars.... I'd pay attention to how
you feel rather than what you see.

Thanks. Tomorrow, I'll ride it for 20 miles; I'll see what happens. The
rear half of the bike feels great, much better than my old bike. On my old
bike, I could never get my knees behind the pedal axles.

--
Bob M in CT remove 'x.' to reply

I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just keep
getting longer stems until the pain goes away?

Saddle tilt affects hand pain, Raising handlebar can ease pain, building ab
muscle can assist in supporting upper body as can losing some weight . Even
gloves can alleviate hand pain. It took me all five before I could ride pain
free for 35-40 miles or more. You will find the Lemond to be superior once you
get the fit dialed in.

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 17:38:10 GMT, Bob M wrote:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 10:30:21 -0700, Dan Daniel wrote:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 16:02:40 GMT, Bob M wrote:

On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:54:31 -0700, Ryan Cousineau
wrote:

In article ,
Bob M wrote:

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top
tube compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy
set-back seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper
positioning. Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still
adjusting the seat position. However, for my current seat position,
when I'm on the brake hoods, I can see about half the front axle
relative to the handlebars, and when I'm on the drops, I can see all
of the front axle and about 1/2 inch - 1 inch more from the handlebars
to the axle. Is it true that the handlebars should block the axle
when you're in your normal riding position (the brake hoods for me)?

No.


Then how do you size it? Assuming that the knee-pedal axle distance is
correct, I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just
keep getting longer stems until the pain goes away?

Why do you think a *longer* stem will help with too much weight on the
hands? That seems reversed to me.

My reason for this is that I had weight on my hands, then I adjusted my
seat backward a bit at about 13 miles into my ride. (I adjusted the seat
backwards because I felt I was too far forward on the pedals.) The weight
on my hands decreased. Up until that point, my hands were going numb.
After that point, my hands felt better. I still feel a bit compressed.



Ok, now I get it. And looking at the article by Peter White that
'Scott' posted talked about just this point- as you move the saddle
back, you can balance fore and aft easier and put less weight on the
hands. Nice article!

Handlebar height can be a big factor in weight distribution, also.

Unfortunately, with the idiotic threadless systems now in use, it's hard to
raise the handlebar and dangerous to lower it. (Dangerous from the
standpoint that you can't raise it.) I do feel that the hoods and
handlebar need to be rotated downward. Or perhaps you're talking about
getting a handlebar with less rise (or more rise)? That's a good idea.

I was referring to rise, but rotating the bars is also part of the
game. I rotate based on comfortable palm position when on the brake
hoods since that is where my hands are most of the time. Raising or
lowering the handlebars is another one of those tricky areas.
Personally I've found that a longer *and* higher stem has been a help.
If I raise the handlebars without moving them forward, I get cramped.
If I lower them without moving them back, I get neck pain, especially
as my stomach has grown over the years making it uncomfortable to roll
forward as far as I used to.

Go talk to the bike shop (or find one willing to work with you on
this, and accept that you bought from a lesser shop and move on except
for warranty stuff) and try different stems- rise and length. Many, if
not most, stems have a removable face plate that makes swapping easy
and quick. Two or three loaner setups and then you can buy a stem that
you know will work.



Thanks. Tomorrow, I'll ride it for 20 miles; I'll see what happens. The
rear half of the bike feels great, much better than my old bike. On my old
bike, I could never get my knees behind the pedal axles.

Enjoy it. A few tweaks and maybe a new part or two and before you know
it you'll not even notice the new bike any more it will be so natural.

Bob M wrote:


Unfortunately, with the idiotic threadless systems now in use, it's hard to
raise the handlebar and dangerous to lower it. (Dangerous from the
standpoint that you can't raise it.)

Just move spacers from below the stem to above
the stem. Do not cut the steerer tube shorter.
That way, you can lower it and raise it again
later if you like.

It is unfortunate that new bike makers cut
the steerer tube to some length they think
is best. They should just supply it with
spacers above and below for adjustability.

Stergios

"Bob M" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 27 Jul 2003 07:54:31 -0700, Ryan Cousineau
wrote:

In article ,
Bob M wrote:

I just bought a LeMond bike to get behind the pedals and a longer top
tube compared to my current bike (a Trek), for which I've had to buy
set-back seat posts and very long stems in order to have proper
positioning. Anyway, I've only ridden the LeMond once, so I'm still
adjusting the seat position. However, for my current seat position,
when I'm on the brake hoods, I can see about half the front axle
relative to the handlebars, and when I'm on the drops, I can see all of
the front axle and about 1/2 inch - 1 inch more from the handlebars to
the axle. Is it true that the handlebars should block the axle when
you're in your normal riding position (the brake hoods for me)?

No.


Then how do you size it? Assuming that the knee-pedal axle distance is
correct, I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just keep
getting longer stems until the pain goes away?


No, Bob, you need to move your butt further back or loose some upper body
weight. Perhaps a slacker seat angle?



--
Robin Hubert

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 03:19:11 GMT, Robin Hubert
wrote:
correct, I have too much weight on my hands, as they hurt. Do I just
keep getting longer stems until the pain goes away?

No, Bob, you need to move your butt further back or loose some upper body
weight. Perhaps a slacker seat angle?

Boy, if I could just choose to lose some upper body weight,
not only would my hands feel better (I have too much weight
on them, too, like other posters here), but I'd be a faster
cyclist, and I could wear a cycling jersey without making
others vomit...

Okay, I'm not THAT bad, but I could stand to lose my beer shelf.

--
Robin Hubert
--
Rick Onanian