I am playing Russian Roulette?

On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already.
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way.

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear gauge falls right through.

Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 2:00:26 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already..
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way..

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear gauge falls right through.
Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I beginning to think I am not nearly a decent road cyclist as I am think I am. I am completely easy on drivechain components. I get at least 7000 miles ( not Kilometers) on a 11 speed chain. I probably could really get more but at that point I change them out. On my fine detailed machinist ruler that is 24 inches long with 1/64 marks, I have never stretch a chain to the recommended change of 1/8 in a foot. I think possible I get to 1/16. Also I get 20,000 miles on a cassette and my Conti GP 5000 s go 5000-6000 miles.

So to me based on what others report as maintenance intervals I am off the bell curve. So I ask myself why me? Well first of all I live in Illinois it is flat as they come and probably if I had to I would not need to use the small chainring. Then I normally do not ride if it is raining but I do occassionly get caught in the rain. I do keep my bike clean and lube the chain. I clean it while on the bike but occasionally will pull the chain to clean things and then dunk in OMS. Not often maybe twice over life of the chain. So I think maybe that is why I am easy on a drivechain components. I always thought I was more of a spinner but a recent new cadence counter says I run around 85.

Then it hit me.....hell I am just a no power output cyclist that is the reason. Being a runner first and foremost I have the runner's mentality that running is much more taxing on body, so naturally I must be a strong cyclist.. After all I manage to qualify to run the Boston Marathon 3 times in my prime running years. Well the reality of this is I must really be a weak power output cyclist. I don't know I manage most 50 mile rides in 16.7-18.5 mph solo. Nothing great but it is all a almost 60 year old can do. I could go faster but I do ride a lot of miles not rest enough.

Moral is that you can have components last a long time if you don't put down power.
Deacon mark

On Tue, 23 Mar 2021 12:30:03 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 2:00:26 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already.
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way.

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear gauge falls right through.
Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I beginning to think I am not nearly a decent road cyclist as I am think I am. I am completely easy on drivechain components. I get at least 7000 miles ( not Kilometers) on a 11 speed chain. I probably could really get more but at that point I change them out. On my fine detailed machinist ruler that is 24 inches long with 1/64 marks, I have never stretch a chain to the recommended change of 1/8 in a foot. I think possible I get to 1/16. Also I get 20,000 miles on a cassette and my Conti GP 5000 s go 5000-6000 miles.

So to me based on what others report as maintenance intervals I am off the bell curve. So I ask myself why me? Well first of all I live in Illinois it is flat as they come and probably if I had to I would not need to use the small chainring. Then I normally do not ride if it is raining but I do occassionly get caught in the rain. I do keep my bike clean and lube the chain. I clean it while on the bike but occasionally will pull the chain to clean things and then dunk in OMS. Not often maybe twice over life of the chain. So I think maybe that is why I am easy on a drivechain components. I always thought I was more of a spinner but a recent new cadence counter says I run around 85.

Then it hit me.....hell I am just a no power output cyclist that is the reason. Being a runner first and foremost I have the runner's mentality that running is much more taxing on body, so naturally I must be a strong cyclist. After all I manage to qualify to run the Boston Marathon 3 times in my prime running years. Well the reality of this is I must really be a weak power output cyclist. I don't know I manage most 50 mile rides in 16.7-18.5 mph solo. Nothing great but it is all a almost 60 year old can do. I could go faster but I do ride a lot of miles not rest enough.

Moral is that you can have components last a long time if you don't put down power.
Deacon mark

Well, speaking from a purely physical point of view yes, running is a
more strenuous exercise then running. However, if you were to bicycle
as you run, depending on a heart rate monitor to regulate your effort,
you will find that it is about the same overall effort and you will
probably be cycling at a much higher speed and for shorter times :-)

As for over 60's running. In the 2019 Boston 61 year old Joan Benoit
Samuelson finished in 3:04. First half in 1:29:55.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On 3/23/2021 3:30 PM, Mark cleary wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 2:00:26 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already.
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way.

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear gauge falls right through.
Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I beginning to think I am not nearly a decent road cyclist as I am think I am. I am completely easy on drivechain components. I get at least 7000 miles ( not Kilometers) on a 11 speed chain. I probably could really get more but at that point I change them out. On my fine detailed machinist ruler that is 24 inches long with 1/64 marks, I have never stretch a chain to the recommended change of 1/8 in a foot. I think possible I get to 1/16. Also I get 20,000 miles on a cassette and my Conti GP 5000 s go 5000-6000 miles.

So to me based on what others report as maintenance intervals I am off the bell curve. So I ask myself why me? Well first of all I live in Illinois it is flat as they come and probably if I had to I would not need to use the small chainring. Then I normally do not ride if it is raining but I do occassionly get caught in the rain. I do keep my bike clean and lube the chain. I clean it while on the bike but occasionally will pull the chain to clean things and then dunk in OMS. Not often maybe twice over life of the chain. So I think maybe that is why I am easy on a drivechain components. I always thought I was more of a spinner but a recent new cadence counter says I run around 85.

Then it hit me.....hell I am just a no power output cyclist that is the reason. Being a runner first and foremost I have the runner's mentality that running is much more taxing on body, so naturally I must be a strong cyclist. After all I manage to qualify to run the Boston Marathon 3 times in my prime running years. Well the reality of this is I must really be a weak power output cyclist. I don't know I manage most 50 mile rides in 16.7-18.5 mph solo. Nothing great but it is all a almost 60 year old can do. I could go faster but I do ride a lot of miles not rest enough.

Moral is that you can have components last a long time if you don't put down power.
Deacon mark

First, your speeds seem very respectable to me. At this point in my
life, I'm jealous.

But I think you're mostly correct, that power input has a marked effect
on chain life. However, my guess is that the power _peaks_ have much
more effect than the overall _average_ power.

I think you're putting in about 150 watts (that's for a road cyclist, 17
mph, flat ground). Crunching various numbers (85 rpm, gearing about
52-21?) that would mean a chain tension of about 35 pounds. (We can
discuss calculations if people care to.)

But if it's flat, that would be very consistent. OTOH, if someone is
climbing steep hill, their chain tension goes way up, especially if
they're mashing big gears. I think the effect is non-linear, and that a
short period at high tension does a lot more wearing damage than a long
time at low tension.

Also, if you avoid rain riding (as I usually do) I think you're helping
your chain life a lot. As has been discussed here, wet road grit is like
grinding paste. Industrial chains in factories would never be allowed to
be subjected to stuff like that.

But whatever the reasons, you're doing well. Don't speak ill of yourself!

--
- Frank Krygowski

Mark cleary wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 2:00:26 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already.
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way.

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so
replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test
article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them
was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain
to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear
gauge falls right through.
Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I beginning to think I am not nearly a decent road cyclist as I am think
I am. I am completely easy on drivechain components. I get at least 7000
miles ( not Kilometers) on a 11 speed chain. I probably could really get
more but at that point I change them out. On my fine detailed machinist
ruler that is 24 inches long with 1/64 marks, I have never stretch a
chain to the recommended change of 1/8 in a foot. I think possible I get
to 1/16. Also I get 20,000 miles on a cassette and my Conti GP 5000 s go 5000-6000 miles.

So to me based on what others report as maintenance intervals I am off
the bell curve. So I ask myself why me? Well first of all I live in
Illinois it is flat as they come and probably if I had to I would not
need to use the small chainring. Then I normally do not ride if it is
raining but I do occassionly get caught in the rain. I do keep my bike
clean and lube the chain. I clean it while on the bike but occasionally
will pull the chain to clean things and then dunk in OMS. Not often maybe
twice over life of the chain. So I think maybe that is why I am easy on a
drivechain components. I always thought I was more of a spinner but a
recent new cadence counter says I run around 85.

Then it hit me.....hell I am just a no power output cyclist that is the
reason. Being a runner first and foremost I have the runner's mentality
that running is much more taxing on body, so naturally I must be a strong
cyclist. After all I manage to qualify to run the Boston Marathon 3 times
in my prime running years. Well the reality of this is I must really be a
weak power output cyclist. I don't know I manage most 50 mile rides in
16.7-18.5 mph solo. Nothing great but it is all a almost 60 year old can
do. I could go faster but I do ride a lot of miles not rest enough.

Moral is that you can have components last a long time if you don't put down power.
Deacon mark

I’m heavy and this being uk, it’s soggy at lot of the time, plus my road
bike is a gravel bike so mix of road and trails.

No big hills but rolling land, with some steep ramps in places.

So I tend to average 3k for chains/cassettes.

Tires well under 2k but gravel tires are softer compounds than a road tire,
so the wear is quicker, my rear is showing some scuffing on the tread after
700 or so miles, but to be fair I tend to kill rather than wear out gravel
tires, being the old MTBer I am.

Roger Merriman

On Thursday, March 25, 2021 at 7:53:10 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Mark cleary wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 2:00:26 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already.
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way.

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so
replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test
article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them
was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain
to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear
gauge falls right through.
Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I beginning to think I am not nearly a decent road cyclist as I am think
I am. I am completely easy on drivechain components. I get at least 7000
miles ( not Kilometers) on a 11 speed chain. I probably could really get
more but at that point I change them out. On my fine detailed machinist
ruler that is 24 inches long with 1/64 marks, I have never stretch a
chain to the recommended change of 1/8 in a foot. I think possible I get
to 1/16. Also I get 20,000 miles on a cassette and my Conti GP 5000 s go 5000-6000 miles.

So to me based on what others report as maintenance intervals I am off
the bell curve. So I ask myself why me? Well first of all I live in
Illinois it is flat as they come and probably if I had to I would not
need to use the small chainring. Then I normally do not ride if it is
raining but I do occassionly get caught in the rain. I do keep my bike
clean and lube the chain. I clean it while on the bike but occasionally
will pull the chain to clean things and then dunk in OMS. Not often maybe
twice over life of the chain. So I think maybe that is why I am easy on a
drivechain components. I always thought I was more of a spinner but a
recent new cadence counter says I run around 85.

Then it hit me.....hell I am just a no power output cyclist that is the
reason. Being a runner first and foremost I have the runner's mentality
that running is much more taxing on body, so naturally I must be a strong
cyclist. After all I manage to qualify to run the Boston Marathon 3 times
in my prime running years. Well the reality of this is I must really be a
weak power output cyclist. I don't know I manage most 50 mile rides in
16.7-18.5 mph solo. Nothing great but it is all a almost 60 year old can
do. I could go faster but I do ride a lot of miles not rest enough.

Moral is that you can have components last a long time if you don't put down power.
Deacon mark

I’m heavy and this being uk, it’s soggy at lot of the time, plus my road
bike is a gravel bike so mix of road and trails.

No big hills but rolling land, with some steep ramps in places.

So I tend to average 3k for chains/cassettes.

Tires well under 2k but gravel tires are softer compounds than a road tire,
so the wear is quicker, my rear is showing some scuffing on the tread after
700 or so miles, but to be fair I tend to kill rather than wear out gravel
tires, being the old MTBer I am.

I really can't figure that out Roger, We have sandy dust here and any off--road riding and even road riding is so covered with glass that the chain has very hard dust embedded on it stuck in the wax I put on the chains after opening. If I had a site to post through you could tell immediately how heavy this wax is and how it should wear at least as fast as wet and mud does in Jolly 'ol

I go through medium cost chains like you do but the cassettes last a very long time. After I put them through the ultrasonic cleaner after it has brought the solution up to temperature, they look and act like new. I even have a large pile of 9 speed Campy cassettes that look like new after cleaning.

Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, March 25, 2021 at 7:53:10 AM UTC-7, Roger Merriman wrote:
Mark cleary wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 2:00:26 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 2:56 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 10:27:26 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 3/23/2021 12:32 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 3/22/2021 9:28 PM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 22 Mar 2021 14:11:17 -0700 (PDT), Mark cleary
wrote:

Ok I have the basic Shimano 11 speed 105 chain with the quick link
installed. The quick link is suppose to be a one time deal not made
to be reused at least I think. In any case I have taken the quick
link off to dunk the chain in OMS and clean it I think once already.
Today I decided again to do that since I was doing so routine
maintenance on the bike. I notice now that the quick like does snap
together easier and come off easier but appears to spin fine. The
first time install the quick link I took all my effort with the
proper quick link pliers to get it to snap in place.

So my question is should I figure it is good to go or put a new quick
link on the chain. In the past I have always used a Wipperman Connex
and they are far superior and reusable, but cost more. Since that is
my reference point I wonder about the Shimano technology. Sure they
want to buying new chains an quick links but the chain although has
5300 miles on it has almost no disenable stretch. That would be
normal for me I get huge mile out of drive trains.
Deacon mark

I've used quick links from manufacturers other than Shimano over and
over and to be frank the Shimano quick link looks just like the ones I
have been using. Shimano, of course, posts a yard of warnings that if
you reuse the link it *may* break however I would question whether it
is more likely to break than any of the ones, from other makers, I've
been using, that haven't broken?

But then, can you buy a new Shimano link and how much is it? Would it
be financially logical to replace the link buying a new one each time?

Ah well, I just checked the price and I see a SRAM 12 speed link
marked down to $12.16 from the list price of $17.00.


Yeah, I've reused the allegedly one-use KMC 11 speed quick links. I
suspect the difference with Shimano is different lawyers, not different
technology.
If anyone ever has one of those fail, it would be interesting to see a
deatailed photo of the failed part. I'm curious about how it gives way.

Shimano's have a reputation for taking a lot of force to remove. I
wonder if the removal process loosens the peened connection of the pin
with the side plate.

My Ultegra chain wore out in a remarkably short amount of time so
replacing it with a KMC fixed that problem. I had read a chain test
article that said that Shimano chains were so cheap that replacing them
was cheaper than buying a good chain. But I really don't want a chain
to stretched so rapidly that after a month of riding the chain wear
gauge falls right through.
Since worn chains cause wear of the sprocket teeth, that makes sense.


--
- Frank Krygowski

I beginning to think I am not nearly a decent road cyclist as I am think
I am. I am completely easy on drivechain components. I get at least 7000
miles ( not Kilometers) on a 11 speed chain. I probably could really get
more but at that point I change them out. On my fine detailed machinist
ruler that is 24 inches long with 1/64 marks, I have never stretch a
chain to the recommended change of 1/8 in a foot. I think possible I get
to 1/16. Also I get 20,000 miles on a cassette and my Conti GP 5000 s
go 5000-6000 miles.

So to me based on what others report as maintenance intervals I am off
the bell curve. So I ask myself why me? Well first of all I live in
Illinois it is flat as they come and probably if I had to I would not
need to use the small chainring. Then I normally do not ride if it is
raining but I do occassionly get caught in the rain. I do keep my bike
clean and lube the chain. I clean it while on the bike but occasionally
will pull the chain to clean things and then dunk in OMS. Not often maybe
twice over life of the chain. So I think maybe that is why I am easy on a
drivechain components. I always thought I was more of a spinner but a
recent new cadence counter says I run around 85.

Then it hit me.....hell I am just a no power output cyclist that is the
reason. Being a runner first and foremost I have the runner's mentality
that running is much more taxing on body, so naturally I must be a strong
cyclist. After all I manage to qualify to run the Boston Marathon 3 times
in my prime running years. Well the reality of this is I must really be a
weak power output cyclist. I don't know I manage most 50 mile rides in
16.7-18.5 mph solo. Nothing great but it is all a almost 60 year old can
do. I could go faster but I do ride a lot of miles not rest enough.

Moral is that you can have components last a long time if you don't put down power.
Deacon mark

I’m heavy and this being uk, it’s soggy at lot of the time, plus my road
bike is a gravel bike so mix of road and trails.

No big hills but rolling land, with some steep ramps in places.

So I tend to average 3k for chains/cassettes.

Tires well under 2k but gravel tires are softer compounds than a road tire,
so the wear is quicker, my rear is showing some scuffing on the tread after
700 or so miles, but to be fair I tend to kill rather than wear out gravel
tires, being the old MTBer I am.

I really can't figure that out Roger, We have sandy dust here and any
off--road riding and even road riding is so covered with glass that the
chain has very hard dust embedded on it stuck in the wax I put on the
chains after opening. If I had a site to post through you could tell
immediately how heavy this wax is and how it should wear at least as fast
as wet and mud does in Jolly 'ol

I go through medium cost chains like you do but the cassettes last a very
long time. After I put them through the ultrasonic cleaner after it has
brought the solution up to temperature, they look and act like new. I
even have a large pile of 9 speed Campy cassettes that look like new after cleaning.

I don’t think Sandy unless wet is particularly bad for wear, I have a
number of Sandy heaths and pits even that are on my regular rides.

But when wet it it becomes a grinding paste, though worse is the bog in
other places that just washes wax lubes off, I run wax (squirt) year round
on the commute, but on the gravel/MTB I have to switch out to a wet lube
for boggy months as it’s washed off in such conditions.

And wear rate is quick for both drive chain and braking etc, in such
conditions.

Roger Merriman