rebuilding my wheel

I'd still go with what I put down at the end of that thread:

'here' (http://tinyurl.com/lnjt).


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thanks u-turn,
unfortunatly i`m realy fussy for details when i`m embarking on something
new.
so i`ve got a few more questions....

what you said was:
We at the Ordinary Bike Shop just built two of these. Profile hub,
Alex DX32 19" rim, 4-cross. The rim ERD was 376, the spoke length was
about 185mm, spokes were 14g of type DT Swiss.

was that spoke length exactly 185mm?

i ve never bought spokes before so i don`t know if they come in 1mm
increments or .5mm or whatever.

and did you use DT nipples?, i hear that these are a bit smaller than
normal. and require the spokes to be 5mm longer.

i ned to know all the details so i can walk into francophone bike shop
and walk out with the spokes and nipples and be sure they are the right
size.

thanks

i realy need to know


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I didn't order those spokes but I'll talk tomorrow to the fellow who did
and get right back to you.


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186mm, by my calculations... assuming I've managed to find the correct
dimensions

Spokes for mountain bikes tend to come in 2mm increments. Presumably for
smaller wheels you get smaller increments...

I don't think you need to alter the spoke length due to the nipples, and
certainly not by as much as 5mm. I think the spokes should extend the
same distance regardless, i.e. protrude just into the rim.

Adrian.


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i found a guide to wheelbuilding he
http://tinyurl.com/lw58
somebody else might find it usefull too. its from a bmx site.

also, does anybody know anything about this "interlace under the third"
thing that he talks about
apparently to make the wheel more resistant to grinds,
if this works shurley it would be a good plan for trials wheels too.


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I don't see how that would make the wheel grind-resistant. Grabs and
grinds abrade the spokes and catch crossings; this technique increases
the number of crossings.

That last photo is pretty unconvincing, as far as whether the wheel is
built well or not. There are large kinks in some of the spokes and
there has been no spoke line correction at the nipples. There are huge
curves in some spokes between crossings. Although he states that this
is a finished wheel, it looks like a wheel that has not been tensioned
yet. I think I'll stick to the standard texts.


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Ok, so with a alex dx32 3x profile 36º wheel, I used 176's. that's DT
straight gauge. not problems at all, I however havent really gotten to
test it yet. Just incase you havent figured it out yet, or for future
reference.


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How true does a unicycle wheel actually have to be? Assuming you're not
running brakes.

I'd've thought you could get away with quite a lot, assuming you can get
the general tension approximately right, for strength purposes.


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Well we don't have the info (sorry), but I have never found Roger's
spoke calculator to be wrong, giving 186mm for a 4-cross. I personally
wouldn't hesitate to order spokes based on that information. I ignore
the nipple length thing.

A unicycle wheel for a uni without brakes can get away with more radial
and lateral wobble than one with brakes. However, in general, wheel
strength is a function of:

1. wheel geometry
2. rim geometry and quality
3. spoke quality
4. average wheel tension
5. max spoke tension
6. min spoke tension

If one assumes that (1) is good, and that (2) and (3) are valid, then
the wheel strength depends on average wheel tension (4)primarily, and
max spoke tension (5) and min spoke tension (6) secondarily. (5) is
important because if (4) is high, then the spoke with the highest
tension is the one most likely to fail due to overstress. (6) is
important because if (4) is too low, then the spoke with the lowest
tension is going to fret most and fail (at the spoke head) soonest.

So not only is average tension important, but also keeping the max and
min as close to the average as possible. Since by assumption (2) we
have a "perfect" rim, basically excursions from average will show up as
wobble.

Although this is a simplification, it is a useful one. Basically it
says that with a good wheel design and good components, all the spokes
should be nearly the same tension when the wheel is true. Conversely,
if the wheel is not true, then the spokes have variations in tension
that weaken the wheel.

At the rim joint there will almost always be tension excursions that are
unavoidable.


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166 2 cross
174 3 cross
183 4 cross

I'd go with 3 cross - 4 cross wont work unless you re-drill the rim
holes at an angle.

Leo White


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